Are butts constructed using a-joints more prone to warping?

Have not cored anything yet, but it certainly seems a good idea. I can't get on board with a straight bore, though. So have sort of haphazardly been watching at auctions and such in case a reamer, or similar piece of steel comes up for a few$$ in a box lot, that i can re-grind. You know, save $300 & take a week or two, maybe a couple-3 tries....:rolleyes:

With FS, i think my forearm blanks are longer than 15". Will check when back in shop.

I really like your project.

smt
 
Gonna stick to .735 for 6 inches and .835" at the bottom half step-core for now.
Works for softer and harder woods for me.
Not worried about gaps and dry spots because blow dryer , wire brush, the right glue ( not even going to discuss this one ) and scores on the dowel .
Tap the side of the forearm with a stick after taking taper.
If you have gaps, you might hear it.
I agree with Dave in threading but that's another can of worms.
I know some just slip em and clamp them with a 30"+ clamps . More power to that.
 
CuesDirectly said:
Thank you, look closely at the quote you made, I was simply agreeing with it was all. Seems you feel the same way about expanding glue as I do. I was also referring to lurkers who have gaps in their construction, bring their methods here and the legends such as yourself can explain to them why they should not need expanding glue. There should never be gaps, foam (expanded glue) is a nonstructural material and it's weak, you already know that but some lurkers do not.

Look at the Greenie I gave you at the same time, I actually said it was nice to see you responding here again, I didn't see you for a while.

Thanks again, Dave.
Click to expand...

I don't really look at greenies that often because.........but thanks for whatever you gave me.
Communication sometimes get misconstrued on a forum in that things are occasionally misprinted, misdirected, misunderstood, or wildly over exaggerated, etc,etc.
Peace Dave


Regards
 
JoeyInCali said:
Gonna stick to .735 for 6 inches and .835" at the bottom half step-core for now.
Works for softer and harder woods for me.
Not worried about gaps and dry spots because blow dryer , wire brush, the right glue ( not even going to discuss this one ) and scores on the dowel .
Tap the side of the forearm with a stick after taking taper.
If you have gaps, you might hear it.
I agree with Dave in threading but that's another can of worms.
I know some just slip em and clamp them with a 30"+ clamps . More power to that.
Click to expand...

Not a can of worms. Just good solid advice on proper cue construction! :wink:
 
Hi

I build my cues on a 30" laminated maple dowel.

When I broke form the A Joint method here is some of reasons why I prefer my full core method. Nothing bad to say about A Joint method but I believe it requires a lot more effort and planning details to avoid the W word.

I took many species of turning blanks and leaned them against an outside wall in the Chicago area breaking all rules on purpose. No temperature or humidity control in the shop using both kiln dried and blanks that were waxed. I built about 25 cored cues in a two year period. At that time I was building cues for free for my customers, friends and employees at my Billiards Cafe.

That being said, my pool hall was an incubator for me to observe my cues over time. Since this wood was handled improperly up against an outside wall with outside temp variance between -5 to 105 degrees F with no temp or humidity control in the shop only normal heat and aircon.


I built about 60 cues in my first 3 years. 25 were A joint type and 35 full core version, the score was 2 A joint cues showing a bump between centers and all full core cues stayed straight. Remember I was a rookie so take this info with a grain of salt. Still the fact remains, all the cored cues did not warp and I observed them for many years after building them.

I have continued to build my cues on a dowel ever since and developed my half splice point cue method on the dowel. When you build your cues on a dowel your concentricity is never a question. Example: I cut my V Grooves on my blank when the nose is at .960 after establishing the taper. After glueing in the points and taper turning, I never have to slim and adjust the point geometry all the way down to .850. Never.

So in the final analysis, if you build A Joint cues the truth of matter is that A Joint cues have two pieces of wood joined. If one of those two pieces of wood moves you get a warped cue. That being said, if you control the temperature and humidity to treat the wood properly, hold perfect concentricity during construction joinery with machines that can do that job with repeatability, A Joint cues can be trusted to be and stay straight if you take cuts on the wood and cull problematic pieces out before building.

JMO,

Rick
 
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