Are butts constructed using a-joints more prone to warping?
- Thread starter Snooker Theory
- Start date
Why do you write in BIG LETTERS??
We are dealing with wood .
Precision can be done in the chuck.
Low RPM and live tooling .
IF you really want to get nutty in facing cue components, might as well use 40" between center lathe. Face the shaft or butt or handle in REAL BETWEEN CENTERS. Use a lathe dog and half-dead center in the tailstock.
Creating joint tenons for collars, threading ferrules and installing buttplate at the steady rest is silly. You have not done it with wood. There is no upside.
When you install ferrules, collars and buttplates, you still have the center hole . You can still face mating parts using that center hole.
And if one had all the money to make gun barrels, one would get a collet closer lathe .
You don't see them screw machines using the steady rest , do you ?
All done on collet closer lathes with dovetail beds.
All cue makers would grab a Hardinge dovetail collet closer lathe if we all had the room and cash.
Where did you come up with this idea?
I use reamers and gage pins all the time and if I want a .308" hole I drill, bore and ream. When I check with my .308" gage pin, it slides in just perfect and makes a "pop" sound when I take it out, so my .308" reamer makes a perfect.308" hole.
Things that make you go Hmmmmmm....:boring2:
If you hadn't noticed...I'm a blind builder.
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Most machinists don't understand a simple procedure as such because they went to school and were taught how to deal with making a precision hole in metal not wood, specifically pool cues.
Granted, we work with wood on metalworking machinery so some of things we do are more precision than your average hobby wood hack can achieve.
These guys come and go to the forum and we appreciate their insight.
Being a self taught wood machinist myself I guess I missed all of those fun days in a crowded classroom.
In our apocalyptic times a good laugh is always needed.
Well I'm prejudiced, of course. Use almost exclusively Hardinge components and all have lever closers, can be used with them on or off.
Unfortunately, the thru hole in the spindle will just pass 1-1/4" if you take the collet key pin out. Which i have sometimes done. A 5c collet (hardinge) will only pass 1" max, can bore collets up to 1-3/16" for short lengths, but not through. (Can bore collets for short parts up to 7" with external closers, but no app for cue work).
Another factor is that except for 2 very long splitbed versions that the factory built strictly for in-factory use to make leadscrews for all the other lathes on, Hardinge never made beds with much more than 18 - 20 " between centers.
If you want to use the 1-1/4" spindle capacity, the key needs taken out and a chuck or external collet closer used. Lathes in photos are hardinges. Castings are the older styles, but the spindles & bearings are the same as were used until they stopped production of manual lathes. (I scored some NOS chucks at the factory auction)
Attachments
Whatever. ..
Foaming expanding glue?
Does not belong on any Pool Cue. If someone has gaps in construction, tell the good people here on AZ what you're doing and perhaps you will learn how to build with no gaps that need to be filled.
Slip fit to perfection, oh so good.
Pay attention and quit accusing me of inadequate preparation.
I would never slip fit any crucial part in building a pool cue.
If your not threading and using epoxy at the 4 major places in the construction you're doing the product a misservice in my shop.
ALSO quit jumping in to a thread and spewing rhetoric when you don't have a clue.
Wow, I was in complete agreement with your comments.
Any internal part should fit to perfection and be internally straight regardless of threading, I was not talking about threading, only the fit.
How about an apology?
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JC
Coos Cues
Thus the tapered core project..........
Thank you, look closely at the quote you made, I was simply agreeing with it was all. Seems you feel the same way about expanding glue as I do. I was also referring to lurkers who have gaps in their construction, bring their methods here and the legends such as yourself can explain to them why they should not need expanding glue. There should never be gaps, foam (expanded glue) is a nonstructural material and it's weak, you already know that but some lurkers do not.
Look at the Greenie I gave you at the same time, I actually said it was nice to see you responding here again, I didn't see you for a while.
Thanks again, Dave.
JC
Coos Cues
Yeah, it sucks that a tapered reamer is $800 or so, I really wanna do tapered cores too
It cost me $900 to have it built but the minimum order was 3 so they are only a bit over 300 per shipped. A bit more to Europe of course.
So if anyone else is interested in getting in on this order it's not too late to add more pieces. This one is for handle wood. .748" at the nose and .772" 15 inches down. A total taper of .024" over 15 inches. Which is just enough to get thin glue in there to squeeze out. You will need a .750 gun drill to use this reamer. And a metal lathe not sure if a taig is up to the job or not.
The reason the taper is slight is because the less wood you take off on the fat end the quicker, cooler and easier. I wanted just enough to get the effect I need but no more. Others seem interested in a taper that matches the cue OD. At .014" per inch you would be enlarging the hole by .168" per foot. The reamer can't remove that much wood it would incinerate. Personally I don't see any advantage to the ID taper matching the OD since the entire purpose of the tapered core is gluing. Sure if there were an easy way why not but there doesn't seem to be one. There is already a shoulder at the lower end of your core for the butt sleeve to butt up to at the taper I'm using.
Anyway those are my thoughts. Walker will soon chime in with "nope" and my dreams will be shattered.:frown:
As far as the title of this thread I think with equal skill sets many ways of building cues are sound and warp free. Not trying to derail with an infomercial.
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