are Predator cues really that good?

........and those Revo's are crap. I read on here that they break clean in half if you just look at them wrong!! for reals........:)

I've only heard bad things about the people who play with Revo's, not the Revo's themselves


:rolleyes:
 
I don't know about that shaft. Jim Lucas(Lucasi,get it?) of Cue&Case paid Stroud a bunch of money to basically teach how to mass-produce a high-quality cue. Factory was called Tai-Can but has since changed. They make a min of 30,000, yeah, THIRTY-THOUSAND cues a month. I've got an older first-gen Lucasi that is as nice as any Schon i've ever hit. Still dead straight and solid.

It changed the industry and pool players around the World should thank Jim Lucas for that, he paid Stroud 6-figures to teach them the tricks of the trade that comes from decades of custom cuemaking.


Neil
 
They take a lot of getting used to, you can't switch from a 'normal' shaft to z/z2/314 shaft etc. and expect to be the same player in a day, it simply won't happen, they play completely differently.

I've been using a z2 for years and now trying to play with a 'normal' shaft is close to impossible!

It was just way too different then what I was used to shooting with. I can shoot just fine with most LD shafts (like the 1st gen Predator 314, the OB, and several other brands that I have tried out). The Predator Z shaft was out of this world different (then any other LD shaft I ever tried, so it was not just about it being different then a regular maple shaft, it was completely different than anything I had ever used before).
 
They take a lot of getting used to, you can't switch from a 'normal' shaft to z/z2/314 shaft etc. and expect to be the same player in a day, it simply won't happen, they play completely differently.

I've been using a z2 for years and now trying to play with a 'normal' shaft is close to impossible!

I forgot to mention that I think the Z shaft was like 11.75mm, and with a conical taper. I think that messed me up more then anything. On top of that, the shaft felt like a metal rod was inside the wood. It had zero flex, on follow through. I guess maybe I did not give it enough practice time. Made me sick that I could not aim, or make anything with it though. I felt like I had never played pool in my life with that shaft.
 
I never noticed any hit difference with the uni lock pin. It was king of nice when your at tournaments that you could quickly put your cue away and back together. Honestly I wish both joints on the air 2 were uni lock . That's the cue I need to put together quickly when I'm in the middle of a match and suddenly need it.

Okay, well maybe it is just all in my head that the type of joint affects how a cue hits. I do not know.
 
I don't know about that shaft. Jim Lucas(Lucasi,get it?) of Cue&Case paid Stroud a bunch of money to basically teach how to mass-produce a high-quality cue. Factory was called Tai-Can but has since changed. They make a min of 30,000, yeah, THIRTY-THOUSAND cues a month. I've got an older first-gen Lucasi that is as nice as any Schon i've ever hit. Still dead straight and solid.

30,000 cues per month? Unbelievable. How many serious pool players are there in the world? How could they possibly expect to be able to sell all of them, and how do they keep good quality control?
 
I forgot to mention that I think the Z shaft was like 11.75mm, and with a conical taper. I think that messed me up more then anything. On top of that, the shaft felt like a metal rod was inside the wood. It had zero flex, on follow through. I guess maybe I did not give it enough practice time. Made me sick that I could not aim, or make anything with it though. I felt like I had never played pool in my life with that shaft.

I don't disagree at all, when I first got mine I couldn't pot a ball unless it was straight on, it was a really strange feeling, but after a while you get used to it.

Now if switch back I struggle to play anything but simple shots with a 'normal' cue!

They take some getting used to, but mine helped my game massively.
 
It all takes time. Deflection or no deflection. No one is better than the other just about practice. Look at Appleton. Then look at the Ko brothers who play with SW and Tad. But I personally think the low end cues from predator are poorly made and have no feel. I've played with a high end predator butt and it was good, but butts like the sneaky series I sold immediately. For 500 just get urself like the nitti that's in sale section now or an omen or diveney sneaky. Then if you want low deflection slap on a predator or mezz shaft. Best of both worlds


Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums
 
Unless you play at a very high level it really just does not make a difference. I know very good players that are playing good pool with 1 piece house cues. Production cues are reasonably priced and easily available. You can get a Predator roadline for under $400 and you will never need another cue.

I'm not putting down custom cues, they just cost a little more and it takes some work to find the right one.
 
Okay, well maybe it is just all in my head that the type of joint affects how a cue hits. I do not know.

I'm not saying your wrong. If it didn't feel good to you or different then it's not for you. That's why threads asking people how a cue hits is irrelevant. Lol to each his own
 
So I hear a lot about Predator cues here. They are expensive for a production cue IMO. My questions is: are they worth the $$$ ?
an AZ member who has a world championship and US Open titles can tell you a lot of good things about predator cues. :D
my suggestion, try one first and see if the placebo effect works for you. :)
 
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I apologize in advance for any memory lapses. When I first began looking at Predator, they were only offering Predator Shafts. They were trying 6, 8, and 10 splice wood shafts. they would make a shaft to fit your cue brand and collar. One could mail in their cue butt or send in the cue butt information. There were no cat or 314 logos on the shafts. In 1996, Predator came out with 6 cue models. I believe the cue butts were mad by The Falcon Cue Company for at least the first year. The shafts did not have a cat or 314 logo.
I purchased 3 of these cue models. They looked and felt pretty nice, Later on, I was able to make a side by side comparison of my 1996 cue against the same cue model that was made at a later year. There was an obvious difference in the looks of the cues. The 1996 was much richer looking in color, materials, and finished appearance.
I have played mainly with a Predator Cue since 1996. I did test other cues by did not change. In 2016, I purchased a QB (que-bee) cue with regular maple shafts. Neither shaft felt really comfortable, so I tried 2 different, newer predator shafts with standard tips. The resulting play was similar. Another play had a milk dud tip on his shaft and really liked it. I decided to try one. I put the milk dud on one of the QB shafts, because I like the looks of the matching collars. After a few practice racks, switching among the Predators also, I decided to give the QB shaft good try out. I only get to practice 2 times a week at a pool hall. After a few short weeks, my play improved, became more consistent, and comfortable. I realized that lately I have not thought of trying a Predator shaft. I do not know what made the difference in shaft play. Was it that cue butt, with that plain maple shaft, and milk dud tip. Maybe , it was something I am not aware of or maybe just confidence. I am surprised that I am playing a plain maple shaft again over a Predator. But, I played a plain maple shaft for many years before using a Predator.
 
vjmehra...You can only speak for yourself. I have already done tests switching back and forth from LD shafts (including the Revo) to regular wood shafts...switching from shot to shot with no loss of accuracy. I may be a bit different, as I totally trust my stroke (as an instructor), but I know I cannot be the only person who can switch back and forth with no adjustment.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

They take a lot of getting used to, you can't switch from a 'normal' shaft to z/z2/314 shaft etc. and expect to be the same player in a day, it simply won't happen, they play completely differently.

I've been using a z2 for years and now trying to play with a 'normal' shaft is close to impossible!
 
If you're into aesthetics then go pretty, and spend away. If you're looking for a quality playing cue just get a quality butt(doesn't have to be super high end), Schon or Pechauer works fine, and add any quality shaft(predator, ob, etc....) you want. I bought a nice Schon from a league player once for $60 because the shaft was busted. I didn't want the shaft anyway since I had an extra 314-2 at home that would fit just fine
 
vjmehra...You can only speak for yourself. I have already done tests switching back and forth from LD shafts (including the Revo) to regular wood shafts...switching from shot to shot with no loss of accuracy. I may be a bit different, as I totally trust my stroke (as an instructor), but I know I cannot be the only person who can switch back and forth with no adjustment.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

If there is no need for an adjustment, then there's no need for an LD shaft.

How can there be no adjustment ????
If the shaft causes more cue ball squirt, you will have to fool yourself where you are aiming the cueball because it's not going to end up there due to cue ball squirt . That is just physics.
 
vjmehra...You can only speak for yourself. I have already done tests switching back and forth from LD shafts (including the Revo) to regular wood shafts...switching from shot to shot with no loss of accuracy. I may be a bit different, as I totally trust my stroke (as an instructor), but I know I cannot be the only person who can switch back and forth with no adjustment.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

In that case you are superhuman :-)

The whole point of the low deflection shafts is to change the way you need to shoot the shot, therefore its virtually impossible to play shots in the same way....unless of course the shafts don't work (which they seem to)!

Do you mean you automatically correct for the reduced deflection?

Not everyone can do that without practising with the new shaft for at least a bit first, you will be by far in the minority there.
 
Never buy them new and you will get a fair deal! And not los your a^%&$% when you decide to sell it. Otherwise you will not get your money out of it.

Predator owners usuallly take pretty good care of their cues. They are best bought used. The roadline series is one of the less expensive and therefore oe of the most popular cues as they can be picked up on e bay for under under 350 for sure.

I have never owned a predator, except for a BK2 which was great.

And many prefer to buy predators from when they were made in America. Your have to look that date up though.
 
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Inspired by this thread I pulled the trigger on a Predator Classico special edition cue from Seyberts to decide for myself if I find Predators overpriced pieces of garbage as the majority of responses suggest.
Bought it with a 30" 314'3 and to my own surprise I love it. Everything about it feels great, despite the Uniloc joint wich I dont usually like that much it hits very well and plays ridicilously good for me. Hit feels very pleasant, firm but without too much vibrations going through the cue. Butt is a little skinnier than my other cues wich feels great. And it isnt so expensive that I'd be worried about it when I'm out playing like the Barnhart that I used to carry along.
I am happy with the purchase without a doubt and it is now my daily player :smile:

To each with their own but I like their cues a lot :rolleyes:
 
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