Atlas joint pin
- Thread starter Dman
- Start date
Every one has their own ideas of the best way to do any task as far as cue building. The A-joint is a critically important part of the cue. Any movement here, either while building or later down the road, is a major concern. many different techniques are employed to insure both straightness and stability in this area. Of coarse, no cue maker wants to build a bad cue and they all believe that their technique is the best. My thoughts on the matter are this:
The A-joint must be solid, tight and straight. To accomplish this, most cue makers turn a tenon and then bore a straight hole in the other piece, so as to have a snug fit and facing both pieces at a perfect 90 deg. ensuring the prong to be straight with the handle. Many put a bolt in the center to pull the two haves together and some thread the tenon and bored hole to likewise, pull the two parts together. Both techniques are still using the tenon and bored hole for registry. Here of late, some people are experimenting with shouldered studs that also register the two pieces to one another. This works very well as a joint pin as, if done correctly, the pin is close to being perfectly centered and the shaft is centered onto the pin. However, in my opinion, you can't have two registration devices in the same area. Neither is absolutely perfectly centered so one will always be putting a strain on the other. The pin will act like a spring in the A-joint, always trying to get straight again and over time the joint will move.
It is for this reason that I don't use pins for registration on a cue. I use the tenon and squared faces for registration and the stud that I use has enough play in the threads so as to, hopefully, not put a strain on the joint.
Dick
The A-joint must be solid, tight and straight. To accomplish this, most cue makers turn a tenon and then bore a straight hole in the other piece, so as to have a snug fit and facing both pieces at a perfect 90 deg. ensuring the prong to be straight with the handle. Many put a bolt in the center to pull the two haves together and some thread the tenon and bored hole to likewise, pull the two parts together. Both techniques are still using the tenon and bored hole for registry. Here of late, some people are experimenting with shouldered studs that also register the two pieces to one another. This works very well as a joint pin as, if done correctly, the pin is close to being perfectly centered and the shaft is centered onto the pin. However, in my opinion, you can't have two registration devices in the same area. Neither is absolutely perfectly centered so one will always be putting a strain on the other. The pin will act like a spring in the A-joint, always trying to get straight again and over time the joint will move.
It is for this reason that I don't use pins for registration on a cue. I use the tenon and squared faces for registration and the stud that I use has enough play in the threads so as to, hopefully, not put a strain on the joint.
Dick
tap, tap, tap, Dick.
I remember the older thread about what you are talking about.
I remember the older thread about what you are talking about.
Dman said:
Dman, if I understand correclty it is the same pitch as a regular 3/8-10 pin however a different diameter is bored for the id of the pin befor tapping. Am I correct in assuming you are wondering if you would tap the bottom of the hole only like you would for a normal 3/8-10 pin? If the bottom thread where not flat then the boring diameter would be different at the bottom then at the top wouldn't it? I do like the self centering pins Atlas sells. That way if I don't like how the pin sets, I can put my live center in to pull it up straight.
Jimbo.
I was under the impression the major of the bottom threads were .364" and the barrel was .370".Mc2 said:
I bought a couple of them to try, but haven't yet. The only way I thought to do it was to drill and tap as usual, then bore the hole the dia. and depth, of the barrel. Then insert it, and threadit. I maybe incorrect, as I haven't done it yet. I was going to try it on a scrap of dowel, without glue of course.
Dave
Dave
Dave I think you are right. I've been told its same as uni-loc install except
drill and tap as you would a standard 3/8-10 pin, then bore .312 dia for the length of barrel. I was hoping someone here had installed and could correct me I am wrong. But It wont be the first time I screwed up a forearm. I am wondering if I should leave barrel a little proud and face it or sink it slightly?
any thoughts?
drill and tap as you would a standard 3/8-10 pin, then bore .312 dia for the length of barrel. I was hoping someone here had installed and could correct me I am wrong. But It wont be the first time I screwed up a forearm. I am wondering if I should leave barrel a little proud and face it or sink it slightly?
any thoughts?
I prefer to bore the hole instead of drill it...but many do it either way. Also...if you don't have the ability to bore deep enough...then consider drilling it undersize then using a reamer to get a bit more true hole than just drilling. Also I'll offer this bit of advice & it'll save you a step and possible headaches. After you are satisfied with the hole then do NOT tap as your next step. You'll want to bore for the shoulder next...then tap as your final step. Boring after tapping can & will muck the threads causing you an extra step of tapping again to clean up where the bar altered the first thread.
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Tap,tap,tap ( err pardon the pun ).Varney Cues said:I prefer to bore the hole instead of drill it...but many do it either way. Also...if you don't have the ability to bore deep enough...then consider drilling it undersize then using a reamer to get a bit more true hole than just drilling. Also I'll offer this bit of advice & it'll save you a step and possible headaches. After you are satisfied with the hole then do NOT tap as your next step. You'll want to bore for the shoulder next...then tap as your final step. Boring after tapping can & will muck the threads causing you an extra step of tapping again to clean up where the bar altered the first thread.
Great tip.
Rep point for you.
Hey Varn I see you are also a firearms guy. Collector or shooter?
He robs convenient stores at night to support his losing cuemaking business.
He likes robbing adult video stores the most.
Dman said:
Shooter...as in if anyone F's with my collection.
Seriously, I got most of my collection in my pockets...or under my shirt, stuck in my belt Mexican style.
Yes indeed...if you have to defend your life or that of a loved one...there is no substitute for a quality weapon/ammo. Only a fool saves money in that arena.
Great.Varney Cues said:
Buy me a compensated short Kimber .45.
Got any Black Talons? Wait I got some Corbons.
Multi-layered ammos.