Avg thickness of finish

Average is about .0025" but that definitely varies from one cuemaker to another. That thickness is per side so the cue would be .005" under final finished sized before applying .0025" of finish.
 
Every clear is different. It needs to be thick enough to block UV light and moisture. Most clears should be between 1.5-2.5 mils.
GM factories painted thousands of cars in 90's without enough clear and natural UV light oxidized the paint under the clear causing the clear to peal off. They spent millions repainting every car because they were too cheep to add another coat at the factory.

I leave about 3 Mils of clear on a cue.

I use different two clears. Each has it's benefits.
This is how I calculate.
Clear # 1
Wet film build 2.6 mils per coat
Dried film build 1.1 mils per coat
5 coats so after sanding and polish the cue leaves the shop with about 3 mils.
Clear #2
Wet film build 2.1 mils per coat
Dried film build .9 mils per coat
6 coats so after sanding and polish the cue leaves the shop with about 3 mils.
 
cueman said:
Average is about .0025" but that definitely varies from one cuemaker to another. That thickness is per side so the cue would be .005" under final finished sized before applying .0025" of finish.

That's about right. Nearly exactly what mine is.
 
Graciocues said:
Every clear is different. It needs to be thick enough to block UV light and moisture. Most clears should be between 1.5-2.5 mils.
GM factories painted thousands of cars in 90's without enough clear and natural UV light oxidized the paint under the clear causing the clear to peal off. They spent millions repainting every car because they were too cheep to add another coat at the factory.

I leave about 3 Mils of clear on a cue.

I use different two clears. Each has it's benefits.
This is how I calculate.
Clear # 1
Wet film build 2.6 mils per coat
Dried film build 1.1 mils per coat
5 coats so after sanding and polish the cue leaves the shop with about 3 mils.
Clear #2
Wet film build 2.1 mils per coat
Dried film build .9 mils per coat
6 coats so after sanding and polish the cue leaves the shop with about 3 mils.

that was like reading a rocket schematic.

LOL. I have no idea what you just said. I was thinking more in terms of .00x. Maybe someday I'll understand mils.

thanks for the input, i really do appreciate it.

Craig
 
Do you know the numbers on the clear you use?

Clears are measured in mils, Tips in Millimeters, and butts in inches.

I should of added, 1 mil=1000th of an inch.
 
Graciocues said:
Do you know the numbers on the clear you use?

Clears are measured in mils, Tips in Millimeters, and butts in inches.

I should of added, 1 mil=1000th of an inch.


I have never put clear on a cue. I was just wanting to know what the average is.

Thanks,
 
We hear all this science about wood and never talk deeply about finish. It's all important in a perfect cue.

Let's start a subject that can help a lot of builders. How to clear with perfection? What will last for 20 years? Why does clear turn yellow? How does UV affect the wood?
You guys can be gay or ask the rite questions. You might learn something.

This is a question that I've never seen on AZ.
How far should I hold my spray gun from the cue?

A $10 spray gun can shoot better then a $500 gun if you don't have the proper atomization.


How thick is one coat of clear? How many coats should I use? After you know the answer to those questions you can calculate one of the most important thing about the PROTECTIVE COATING on a cue.
Is there enough? Is it too thick? What's thinner popping? Why does this keep happening?

Clear isn't just cosmetic.


I'm sure we have lots of painters out there that can help this subject (5 years experience. LOL Inside joke).

If you have experience painting cars speak up. Many builders could use your help.
 
Graciocues said:
We hear all this science about wood and never talk deeply about finish. It's all important in a perfect cue.

Let's start a subject that can help a lot of builders. How to clear with perfection? What will last for 20 years? Why does clear turn yellow? How does UV affect the wood?
You guys can be gay or ask the rite questions. You might learn something.

This is a question that I've never seen on AZ.
How far should I hold my spray gun from the cue?

A $10 spray gun can shoot better then a $500 gun if you don't have the proper atomization.


How thick is one coat of clear? How many coats should I use? After you know the answer to those questions you can calculate one of the most important thing about the PROTECTIVE COATING on a cue.
Is there enough? Is it too thick? What's thinner popping? Why does this keep happening?

Clear isn't just cosmetic.


I'm sure we have lots of painters out there that can help this subject (5 years experience. LOL Inside joke).

If you have experience painting cars speak up. Many builders could use your help.

All very good points. I would love to hear the answers to all of your questions.

thanks, anyone?

cbi
 
i think the problem is there is no answer. everyone has their own ways to make things work. just as everything else in cuemaking.
 
A $10 spray gun can shoot better then a $500 gun if you don't have the proper atomization.

What is proper atomization??

I too havn't had a chance to spray a cue with a spray gun...but I'm looking to start once I'm able to find the space for it. I was actually thinking about getting the UV kit from Lee. Anybody has any feedback with finishing using the UV light system?

I was thinking of first trying to brush on urethane and see how that will work. But I won't be trying anything until I have proper workspace and ventilation system in place. I understand expose to fume and/or uv light can be deadly. I wear mask when I use super glue to finish my cues as well as rub on finish.

So how do you protect yourself?


Everytime, I read about a cue builder passing...I always wonder how much has cue making shorten their life or even affected their death. The chemical cue builder deals with on a daily basis seem to be silent killer...not to mentioned some of the woods.

Thanks,
Duc.
 
finish

I have a finishing set up for work that is 200,000 per booth. Thats alot of $ but without the right people you can't finish anything .Wood is so different than metal , you can't compare the two . When you talk about wet mills and transfer efficiency and wet droplet vs dry or partialy dry droplet it can get a little much.But I will say this my hand pieces are 3,500.00 a pc and that solves alot of problems . You have to invest in equipment, not to the extreme but it must be done.Also there is no substitute for experience.
 
Graciocues said:
We hear all this science about wood and never talk deeply about finish. It's all important in a perfect cue.

Let's start a subject that can help a lot of builders. How to clear with perfection? What will last for 20 years? Why does clear turn yellow? How does UV affect the wood?
You guys can be gay or ask the rite questions. You might learn something.

This is a question that I've never seen on AZ.
How far should I hold my spray gun from the cue?

A $10 spray gun can shoot better then a $500 gun if you don't have the proper atomization.


How thick is one coat of clear? How many coats should I use? After you know the answer to those questions you can calculate one of the most important thing about the PROTECTIVE COATING on a cue.
Is there enough? Is it too thick? What's thinner popping? Why does this keep happening?

Clear isn't just cosmetic.


I'm sure we have lots of painters out there that can help this subject (5 years experience. LOL Inside joke).

If you have experience painting cars speak up. Many builders could use your help.

For me as a cue collector one of the most important things would be
why some finishes got yellow other the years, and why other didn?t.
If you collect expensive cues with much ivory in it, i think it look?s
terrible when it starts to get realy yellow.
There are cuemakers out there where that happens on all their cues, and
others where it didn?t.
So, what?s the reason for that ?
 
Yellowing !?

One more thing i didn?t know is the different yellowing on one cue.
There are cues with ivory rings, ivory points and ivory joints.
When you look at some of these cues carefuly the white is going to
get yellow in different ways.
Often the ivory rings start to get yellow, the joint too, butt the points
are still whithe.
How can this happen !?
 
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