benefits of an ivory ferrule?

no elephant balls

theivory ferrule does not play good with the elephant balls or any tusk at hand or after you store it in your trunk.:D
 
Ivory is one of those you either like it or you don't. I like it. I also tried the ivor-X because it was suppose to hit like ivory. Not even close.. Just my opinion.
 
Michael Webb said:
Ivory is one of those you either like it or you don't. I like it. I also tried the ivor-X because it was suppose to hit like ivory. Not even close.. Just my opinion.
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Amen.

for those who love the Hit of Ivory, they pay the Price of Ivory for the Ivory Hit.
 
Funny thing is all the Ivory Immitation, say things like, the hit of Irvoy, and their name are like FAUX Ivory.

Ivory is Ivory, and IMMITATION Ivory is not Ivory....
 
Thanks for the input!

Consider this:
A low squirt shaft (such as Predator) has a pivot point way back on the shaft. So the aim and pivot method where you aim and then pivot your grip hand is difficult to use. It is generally easier to use the parallel method of applying side spin on a low squirt shaft (or aim and pivot the bridge hand). I don’t care for the parallel method.

The higher the squirt on a shaft, the closer the pivot point will be to a normal bridge length. I was thinking that an ivory ferrule on a solid maple 13mm shaft increase the squirt and make it easier to apply side spin using aim and pivot.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
JW
 
JMW said:
The higher the squirt on a shaft, the closer the pivot point will be to a normal bridge length. I was thinking that an ivory ferrule on a solid maple 13mm shaft increase the squirt and make it easier to apply side spin using aim and pivot.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
JW
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Most of my normal shafts have a pivot point at 12-14", which might be too long to use as a bridge for many people, so they'd have to aim, pivot and slide.

How much heavier is ivory than the other ferrules? If adding ivory pulls the pivot point to, say 10", that wouldn't be a bad thing for aim & pivoters.

Fred
 
Can someone explain what the pivot point is and how to determine it?
I guess I should know this considering I use BHE but I haven't got a clue.

Thank you,
Koop
 
Koop said:
Can someone explain what the pivot point is and how to determine it?
I guess I should know this considering I use BHE but I haven't got a clue.

Thank you,
Koop
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I wrote a series of three articles on squirt for Billiards Digest in 2002 (August through October). These are available on-line at: http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/BD_articles.html The one that discusses pivot point is the October issue.

It's important to note that the pivot point is not always at your bridge hand, and that for a particular stick, the pivot point is different for different shots if you vary speed, tip offset, amount of draw/follow, and distance to the object ball.
 
Koop said:
Can someone explain what the pivot point is and how to determine it?
I guess I should know this considering I use BHE but I haven't got a clue.

Thank you,
Koop
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Also check Colin Colenso's video on BHE. He talks about where his pivot point is.

Fred
 
JMW said:
What are the benefits of an ivory ferrule? Pros and cons?
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Pro: Very nice look. Stays clean. More collectible.

Con: More expensive. Cracks/chips more.

Neutral: Moves pivot point.

While I put the last one down as neutral, if you are a player who prefers low squirt, or a player who prefers a short pivot point, this could go either way. I'm in the camp that would rather have a low-squirt shaft.
 
Bob Jewett said:
I wrote a series of three articles on squirt for Billiards Digest in 2002 (August through October). These are available on-line at: http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/BD_articles.html The one that discusses pivot point is the October issue.

It's important to note that the pivot point is not always at your bridge hand, and that for a particular stick, the pivot point is different for different shots if you vary speed, tip offset, amount of draw/follow, and distance to the object ball.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bob and Fred. I'll take a look at both.

Regards,
Koop
 
Ya know, I don't think anyone can argue about the beauty of an ivory ferrule. And in a group where the average price of our playing cues is probably $500-$1000, whats the big deal about an extra $50 for an ivory ferrule? If for no other advantages then that sweet look? And anyone whose cue has inlays, or even points for that matter can't argue with spending money for looks.

Me personally, I love the looks and the feel. And I love that it stays cleaner easier. Well worth a little extra money and you're almost assured to get that $50 in return upon selling the cue.

So that leaves the only risk being durability. Cracked ferrules, ivory or synthetic, are almost certainly results of abuse- whether it's letting your tip get too low, playing drunk and miscuing power shots, breaking with your play cue, or exposing your cue to too dramatic of climate changes too rapidly.
 
Pros: I like the hit and the sound of ivory. I think it is beautiful, classy, and elegant.

Cons: You need to be careful with it, especially if you have someone changing your tip and he does not know what he is doing.:)

Note: Ivory X is not Ivory, it has a noisy and stiff hit but it is not the same as ivory

Note: No, we do not kill elephant to obtain ivory for our cues.:)

Richard
 
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