Best 9-ball or 10-Ball Gambling Conditions

jmurphy said:
Fair & Fast

I figure most guys to say Tight & Fast, 4" pockets etc... personally I feel this is not correct. The pockets for Rotation games should be 4.25"-4.5" not 4" for the game to be played properly. Pool is not Snooker, 4" pockets are perfect for playing 1 pocket. To play rotation game properly you have to be able to "work the pocket". Snooker players have to shoot center pocket to pot the balls, that's not Pool.


Here is my rule of thumb for proper pocket tightness as it relates to rotation games.
Set the OB frozen on the long rail between the 2nd & 3rd diamond, take the cue ball and place it 1/2 ball width off the rail with 2 1/2 - 3 diamonds of separation from the OB.
Fire the OB in the corner pocket drawing the cue ball back to the short rail with enough speed for the cue ball to bounce off the short rail at least 1 foot.
If you hit this shot clean the pocket must accept the OB into the pocket. If the OB hits the facing and rattles/hangs up not matter how good you strike the OB the table it too tight for rotation games.
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There is always always a correct position to be able to play a shot center pocket and get shape, when you can't cheat them it does take away shots that would otherwise be available, That test though is nice to have in your bag of tricks to figure out if the table is up to your standard

Katipunan said:
Between 4.25" - 4.5" pockets with broken in Simonis 860 on a Diamond or GC table that have lively cushions.
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I agree, makes the game good like this.

cleary said:
bucket please.
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Please they give you 2:1 on the tight table and you're stealing. You're a damn pro! That guy is so delusional.
 
Basically, thats supposed to be the WHOLE purpose of a gambling match.

(in more or less words)

Player A: "My pool skills are better than yours"

Player B: "No they're not"

Player A: "Wanna bet??"

Player B: "OK." :-)

Matchups should be played under the toughest conditions.

Dont let the equipment be an auxiliary to victory.

Draw your own rock for the cash!!!!!!

TIGHT and SLOW!!!:thumbup:

Wutang
 
I like it tight and slow for rotation games (the tighter the better) and fair and fast for straight pool.
 
mikeyfrost said:
I'll keep it real simple. If you have to play for the money and there are 4 tables to play on which one of these are you playing on?

For qualification Tight is 4" or under. Fair is 4.25"-4.75" let's not complicate this. Slow and Fast is the speed of the table.

1) Tight and Slow
2) Tight and Fast
3) Fair and Slow
4) Fair and Fast

What do you like???
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I like the table with the drunk APA 2 with a wallet full of cash and trying to draw every shot.

If he's on your table #1 above so much the better.
 
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Nine ... corner said:
Just like your women, right Matt? ;)
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Lol, just now saw this Tom...NO COMMENT!

mikeyfrost said:
I see what you did there...for the record his wife is a nice woman. #pennyapoint
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Wifey plays not too shabby for never being taught (no way I'm teaching her) but I am sure she prefers buckets.

#pennyapointforlife
 

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mikeyfrost said:
Several people have said that. Now I have to wonder what makes certain opponents so much different on your preference?

1) Tight and Fast - playing a guy who you feel isn't accurate enough to make the balls, you are accurate enough but know your stroke isn't on point.

2) Tight and Slow - playing a guy you feel like you have a better stroke and are more accurate than. Probably means the game is even or only games on the wire type of spot.

3) Fair and Slow - playing a guy who you feel pockets as well as you do but doesn't have the stroke to finish racks. Your advantage has to be your position play to like this type.

4) Fair and Fast - playing a guy who can't win. Most likely stealing. Probably giving up a huge spot to someone who is going to miss a lot whether the pockets are tight or not. Probably playing Mikeyfrost for a lot of money giving up the break and wild balls for your second mortgage.

Help me understand the logic.
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If opponent is clearly a level better than you, take the easier table, you already know he can stroke and shoot straight. Thus, I believe the easier table helps you. Won't even it out, but damn, at least you won't be rattling a ball on your run outs. He's gonna run out his makeable tables anyways, you might as well be able to do the same to give you a chance.

If you opponent is at a level or two less than you, take the tight table and frustrate him, let him rattle a few balls ;)
 
ChicagoRJ said:
If opponent is clearly a level better than you, take the easier table, you already know he can stroke and shoot straight. Thus, I believe the easier table helps you. Won't even it out, but damn, at least you won't be rattling a ball on your run outs. He's gonna run out his makeable tables anyways, you might as well be able to do the same to give you a chance.

If you opponent is at a level or two less than you, take the tight table and frustrate him, let him rattle a few balls ;)
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My thoughts exactly. Just depends on who I'm playing. I try not to mess with people who can play position anyway lol
 
From a gambling stand point, if my opponent is far better then me I want the table to be SUPER TIGHT, SLOW, & GAFFEY.
1. I'm not running out anyway
2. Slow my opponent down
3. Since my opponent is far superior I will be getting 1 or 2 wild balls as a spot.
Having the table Super Tight, Slow & Gaffey puts a ton of heat on my opponent if balls jar up easily.
I am looking to win sets like this with 1, 2 or 3 ball runs max.
 
For my next topic since this is an easy transition, we are going to talk about wild balls vs games on the wire. I'm giving free interactive education. When the series is complete, some of you will still be fish but you will be very sharp fish
 
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