Best hitting joint?

Best hit


  • Total voters
    129
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2 different Mezz joints. I have 2 Mezz cues with same model shaft, same model tip, but different joints. Could be my imagination, but one feels like it has a softer hit.

Which is best is matter of preference.

The point is this...
If someone were to hand you two identical cues with each having a different joint and not knowing what type of joint is in either, would you be able to identify with certainty which joint is which or even what type of joint just by the "hit" itself?
 
For the cuemakers here it is not a problem to do such a comparison. Everything the same without the joints. The differences that result in few differences in weight and balance should be kept as they will be, not compensated by other changes.

It should be a cuemaker that does not have any interest on selling his own developed mystified joint system.
 
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I've made a few with deer antler joints and a 5/16 14 flat face. I've made 2 solid antler, and one antler sleeved over wood, then plugged with phenolic, and I can tell that the solid antler joints have a higher pitch "ping" to them. Personally, I love the way all 3 hit.

Joe
 
The point is this...
If someone were to hand you two identical cues with each having a different joint and not knowing what type of joint is in either, would you be able to identify with certainty which joint is which or even what type of joint just by the "hit" itself?

Well I kind of did this as I said in my post.

I have 2 mezz cues. Granted, not identical.

Cue 1: Mezz EC with united joint, alpha shaft, moori medium tip
Cue 2: Mezz Ace with wavy joint, alpha shaft, moori medium tip

Mezz Ace has a softer hit compared to my Mezz EC. I can feel the difference. Maybe it is in my imagination. When I posted my thicker shaft played more forgiving than my thinner shaft, someone told me that was in my imagination too. I did not do a blind test.
 
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If I'm hittin' a joint . . .

All I want is a long draw and nobody around it that Bogarts!

I like the radial pin on a wood-to-wood or 3/8-10 wood (McDermott etc)

I let this guy test my joints cause I can't tell the difference . . .
 

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Well I kind of did this as I said in my post.

I have 2 mezz cues. Granted, not identical.

Cue 1: Mezz EC with united joint, alpha shaft, moori medium tip
Cue 2: Mezz Ace with wavy joint, alpha shaft, moori medium tip

Mezz Ace has a softer hit compared to my Mezz EC. I can feel the difference. Maybe it is in my imagination. When I posted my thicker shaft played more forgiving than my thinner shaft, someone told me that was in my imagination too. I did not do a blind test.

You're still missing the premise of my statement.
What you're saying ^here about your Mezz cues is a comparison test between the two and knowing (operative word) what types of joints are in each.

So, I'll ask another way:

Do you think if loaned you my cue (together) for a few racks that you could absolutely tell what type of joint is had just because of the way it hit?

There are times when 2 entirely different with different joints have a similar hit...and then there are times when 2 cues with the very same identical make-up and the same joints will hit entirely different.
 
Which of these joints make for the best playing cues?

I, personally, do not believe that there is enough difference between joints for even the best players to notice the jump-ability of the joint itself.

That is, there is more variability between cuse with the same joint than there is between otherwise identical cues with different joints.

It all comes back to 75% of the "hit" is in the tip, 20% is in the shaft and the rest of the whole cue makes up the last 5%--with the joint being but a small player in this last 5%.
 
That's interesting, the ones winning are often described as opposites. Ah yes, and they are the most common on non low-end cues.
 
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My big surprise is that Ginacue only has two votes and one of them is mine...LOL

I believe Ernie only uses 5/16 X 18 SS & solid Ivory piloted joints.
 
This thread does nothing but a disservice to all the newbies that happen to find this site. They actually believe that the posters on here are cue experts and have tried every joint, cue, tip, taper, etc. and know what they are talking about. And then the search for 'magic' begins.

Do the new players a favor, and tell them to find something they like the way it looks, and put in a few thousand hours of play. Even the low end production and import cues are equal to any of the so called best of the best being touted on here.

Thanks for resurrecting Mr. McChesneys thread. There is no one brand, one tip, one taper, one weight, one joint, that works for everyone. Find one cue that feels good running through your fingers and stick with it.
 
This thread does nothing but a disservice to all the newbies that happen to find this site. They actually believe that the posters on here are cue experts and have tried every joint, cue, tip, taper, etc. and know what they are talking about. And then the search for 'magic' begins.

Do the new players a favor, and tell them to find something they like the way it looks, and put in a few thousand hours of play. Even the low end production and import cues are equal to any of the so called best of the best being touted on here.

Thanks for resurrecting Mr. McChesneys thread. There is no one brand, one tip, one taper, one weight, one joint, that works for everyone. Find one cue that feels good running through your fingers and stick with it.

Why so serious? :eek:
 
You're still missing the premise of my statement.
What you're saying ^here about your Mezz cues is a comparison test between the two and knowing (operative word) what types of joints are in each.

So, I'll ask another way:

Do you think if loaned you my cue (together) for a few racks that you could absolutely tell what type of joint is had just because of the way it hit?

There are times when 2 entirely different with different joints have a similar hit...and then there are times when 2 cues with the very same identical make-up and the same joints will hit entirely different.

I think you are describing a blind test. Not knowing ahead of time which cue is which, which has which joint.

What I am suggesting is if I were to do a blind test of my Mezz cues, then yes I could tell the difference between them. They both have the same shaft, ferrule and tip. Both have a curly maple butt and obviously, the same manufacturer. The difference between them is the joint.

Could I identify the joint type in your cues ? No. What I am suggesting is joint differences can be detected if all else were the same.

BTW, I agree that tip, ferrule and shaft will make more of a difference to the feel of the hit than the joint.

I believe the McChesney test, the cues were not the same. There were differences between them in addition to the joint.

I also agree with the posts that there is no best joint. It's a matter of preference.
 
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This thread does nothing but a disservice to all the newbies that happen to find this site. They actually believe that the posters on here are cue experts and have tried every joint, cue, tip, taper, etc. and know what they are talking about. And then the search for 'magic' begins.

Do the new players a favor, and tell them to find something they like the way it looks, and put in a few thousand hours of play. Even the low end production and import cues are equal to any of the so called best of the best being touted on here.

Thanks for resurrecting Mr. McChesneys thread. There is no one brand, one tip, one taper, one weight, one joint, that works for everyone. Find one cue that feels good running through your fingers and stick with it.

Bingo! I voted Radial because that's what Keith Josey used on my cue. But really, it's the entire cue and how it feels. Bought my Josey in 2007. No desire to buy anything else.

No, I'm not saying everybody should have a Josey. I'm agreeing about finding that one cue and sticking with it.
 
And I voted for 5/16*18, because its thread is good to get a very strong connection on the plane surfaces of shaft and butt.

My best hitting cue I ever had is a Cem with a 3/8*11 wood to wood joint. But I have another 2 Cem cues that have the same joint and do not hit as "nice". But the play well! ;-)
 
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Rock -

Well stated. One of the best notes I have read on AZB.

I am a two-year newbie, but I am a 72 year old oldie. I have been around long enough to realize that few people, including me, know what they are talking about, but that does not stop us from offering opinions. And it does not seem to matter what the activity is, there are always those people who wish to convince others that whatever they bought is the best there is. This "dissonance resolution" seems to be especially live and well when it comes to pool cue owners.

I have been enjoying experimenting with different cues. They range from a beat-up $2 Dufferin High Run house cue I refinished to $1,000 production cues. They all work well and better than I do.

I appreciate the creativity and artistry of the custom cue makers, but the magic in this game for me comes from improving my game.

Thanks again for your down-to-earth note.

Rick
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This thread does nothing but a disservice to all the newbies that happen to find this site. They actually believe that the posters on here are cue experts and have tried every joint, cue, tip, taper, etc. and know what they are talking about. And then the search for 'magic' begins.
Do the new players a favor, and tell them to find something they like the way it looks, and put in a few thousand hours of play. Even the low end production and import cues are equal to any of the so called best of the best being touted on here.
Thanks for resurrecting Mr. McChesneys thread. There is no one brand, one tip, one taper, one weight, one joint, that works for everyone. Find one cue that feels good running through your fingers and stick with it.
 
Rock -

Well stated. One of the best notes I have read on AZB.

I am a two-year newbie, but I am a 72 year old oldie. I have been around long enough to realize that few people, including me, know what they are talking about, but that does not stop us from offering opinions. And it does not seem to matter what the activity is, there are always those people who wish to convince others that whatever they bought is the best there is. This "dissonance resolution" seems to be especially live and well when it comes to pool cue owners.

I have been enjoying experimenting with different cues. They range from a beat-up $2 Dufferin High Run house cue I refinished to $1,000 production cues. They all work well and better than I do.

I appreciate the creativity and artistry of the custom cue makers, but the magic in this game for me comes from improving my game.

Thanks again for your down-to-earth note.

Rick
------------
This thread does nothing but a disservice to all the newbies that happen to find this site. They actually believe that the posters on here are cue experts and have tried every joint, cue, tip, taper, etc. and know what they are talking about. And then the search for 'magic' begins.
Do the new players a favor, and tell them to find something they like the way it looks, and put in a few thousand hours of play. Even the low end production and import cues are equal to any of the so called best of the best being touted on here.
Thanks for resurrecting Mr. McChesneys thread. There is no one brand, one tip, one taper, one weight, one joint, that works for everyone. Find one cue that feels good running through your fingers and stick with it.

Wow you guys are getting way to serious, this Poll/Thread was just to have a little fun and see what most people's preferences are when it comes to joint pin combos. Please let me change to scope of this thread to "What Joint/Pin combo do you prefer?" instead of best hitting joint. I think some of these posters would be best served by smoking a joint. :cool:
 
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