Best tip radius for break cue / jump cue ??

AZE

AZE

DeucesCracked Instructor
Silver Member
I'm wondering... what is the best tip size for a break cue, and for a jump cue (in case the answer isn't the same for both). And why (for both).
There are some pretty knowledgeable players on this board, I'm looking to see a good answer soon :D
 
^ Thanks. But do you have any specific reason, or explination for why a quarter radius would be better than a dime, nickle, or half/full dollar?
 
I have read on here that the flatter tip on the break cue helps with better CB contact (less spin IIRC) keep the cue ball on the table. The more radius you use the greater the tendency for imparting spin and loss of CB control.

I think that is right any how. Maybe Varney will chime in on this one. I use my J/B as he built it.

Don't have a dedicated jump cue so I can't answer for that one.

Craig
 
I say....

Its like your shooting cue. It needs too be comfortable. If you break with your hand on the table, your method of bridge will affect what diameter you will be able to use. I say a 13mm which is very capatibke with most player would be a place to start.
 
Just a few random things here;

If your tip radius is small, like 12mm, then the shaft is also going to be smaller, and may not provide the type of break you are looking for. I would think 13mm would be the standard.

I would think that people don't want to use maximum spin on any type of break shot, and are hitting with power. Both of these would not warrant a dime radius, but maybe a nickle or even flatter. The more surface area between the cue ball and tip of the cue, the less chance of a miscue, and probably better control and accuracy.

These are just some ideas, personally, but the reality is there is no exact science when it comes to break cues or their tips.
 
Gregg said:
Just a few random things here;

If your tip radius is small, like 12mm, then the shaft is also going to be smaller, and may not provide the type of break you are looking for. I would think 13mm would be the standard.

I would think that people don't want to use maximum spin on any type of break shot, and are hitting with power. Both of these would not warrant a dime radius, but maybe a nickle or even flatter. The more surface area between the cue ball and tip of the cue, the less chance of a miscue, and probably better control and accuracy.

These are just some ideas, personally, but the reality is there is no exact science when it comes to break cues or their tips.
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I think the points you just made are pretty scientific, and correct too.

A stiff centerball hit will transmit the most power to the rack, and a thick shaft with a flatter tip is probably best for those things.

Hard is also good (ok, calm down).

pj
chgo
 
Irish634 said:
I have read on here that the flatter tip on the break cue helps with better CB contact (less spin IIRC) keep the cue ball on the table. The more radius you use the greater the tendency for imparting spin and loss of CB control.

I think that is right any how. Maybe Varney will chime in on this one. I use my J/B as he built it.



Craig
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Correct sir. :)
 
I know many players that spin the cue ball on the break to make a ball like the one ball in the side or corner. The spin is not a critical factor in producing a bad break, the bad break comes from an indirect hit on the one ball and might produce a scratch in the side or the corner you break from (too much draw, but follow is death on the break so it is actually follow or draw that causes all the problems not side spin).Some great players cross the one ball or cut the one ball to make it in a pocket or cause the corner ball to go. The tip should be exactly like your playing cue (the radius of the balls) because if you are jumping a ball very close a draw shot is needed to jump the object ball. A no spinning cue ball is a great break and takes many life times to produce but to change the shape of the tip will only limit the jobs your cue can do. 13mm shafts are a comfortable size for me on the break but the taper is the key to a great break shaft.
 
gulyassy said:
I know many players that spin the cue ball on the break to make a ball like the one ball in the side or corner. The spin is not a critical factor in producing a bad break, the bad break comes from an indirect hit on the one ball and might produce a scratch in the side or the corner you break from (too much draw, but follow is death on the break so it is actually follow or draw that causes all the problems not side spin).Some great players cross the one ball or cut the one ball to make it in a pocket or cause the corner ball to go. The tip should be exactly like your playing cue (the radius of the balls) because if you are jumping a ball very close a draw shot is needed to jump the object ball. A no spinning cue ball is a great break and takes many life times to produce but to change the shape of the tip will only limit the jobs your cue can do. 13mm shafts are a comfortable size for me on the break but the taper is the key to a great break shaft.
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Mike

You and Earl should really look into putting together an instuctional dvd - the combined knowledge that both of you possess on all aspects of the game is absolutely incredible! You should seriously consider putting it on paper or on dvd!
 
I like my tip on my break cue about a nickel, but then I like the center dead flat...thats the way my X Breaker is anyway.
 
Which of the nickel, dime, or quarter radius types most emulate the radius of the cb? Seems like the quarter would.
 
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