Best way to clean a shaft?

LancerV

Registered
Whats the best way to clean a shaft, mine is kinda sticky, and has lost its slick feeling. Ive heard using like a 2kgrit sandpaper works
 
LancerV said:
Whats the best way to clean a shaft, mine is kinda sticky, and has lost its slick feeling. Ive heard using like a 2kgrit sandpaper works
If you wish to clean it remove bluing ect mr clean majic eraser -dampen and go with the grain then rub with a terry cloth towel and burnish with leather! that will whiten the shaft and pull hand oil out!!
 
I second that. Magic eraser (aka - melamine sponge) is a cleaning lifesaver. It can make any old shaft look brand new.
 
Burnish with a piece of leather. Burnish means to wrap the leather (some use paper or money) around the shaft, squeeeze it fairly tight and rub up and down vigorously. The shaft will get very hot and this closes the pores and makes it very slick.

For heavy cleaning I use the Magic Eraser and for daily cleaning I use cigarete lighter fluid. I swear by it! It removes the daily oil, sweat and dirt very nicely. I've been using the lighter fluid for about 5 years and it works great. I use it every time I use the cue, just like oiling your gun.
 
I can vouch for the lighter fuild thing. When my cues get really dirty, i'll mix rubbing alcohol and lighter fluid and it gets the job done.

As for making it slick, usually cleaning it should be enough for the shaft to be slick. Burnishing is good for if yur going to do it before every pool day, but i think yur best bet might be to wax it, which can last a good amount of time depending on how much you play.

You should get into the habit of cleaning the shaft regularly instead of waiting for it to get really dirty or sticky though.
 
Wax gets sticky w/age and/or use. I've found that everything I"ve used, Cue Slick, Cue Glide, Cue Silk, Karseal Cue Wax, Zardoz Not Wax, .... everything wears off and/or gets sticky when chalk, dust, skin oil, humidity all combine to muck up the surface of the shaft.

The best, imo, is too keep all substances off the shaft and burnish it everytime you use it, maybe even between shots to burn off nervous energy while you watch your money going down the drain.

1. Use a Magic Eraser to remove heavy dirt and/or chalk.

2. Burnish.

3. Clean after each use with lighter fluid.

4. While playing wipe with a dry micro-fiber towel or a slightly damp towe.

5. Burnish every few games.

6. The smoothest, cleanest, shineyest shaft you ever saw anywhere. Beautiful.
 
Last edited:
JimS said:
Wax gets sticky w/age and/or use.

i agree with you however plain old waxpaper will work great and extend the time between cleenings if used properly the key is to burnish the shaft after cleaning with wax paper but then you really need toget it all buffed off
Just like you wouldnt put wax on your cars paint then leave it there
make sure you buff it off with a clean towel for at least a minute

also you dont need to do this step every time you clean the shaft
but every now and then does a good job of sealing the pores in the wood
 
I've been meaning to try wax paper and never remember to do it. This time I'm writing it down right this freakin minute. :)

I'm not a good player but I'm a nut for having the tip, ferrule and shaft as perfect as possible and I think I've tried every method and product to reach perfection (except for the wax paper). And...I've been taught by the PRO. For those who don't know who the PRO of shaft maintainence is look up Troy. He is the man. We only disagree on one thing and that is the use of the Magic Eraser on wood.
 
We don't necessarily disagree about the Magic Eraser® use Jim. All I've ever said is that my old package indicates "not for use on bare wood".
I use Simple Green® diluted with 2 parts water in a spray bottle plus a clean, soft cloth. I do NOT drown the towel/shaft, but get it sufficiently damp to do the job. I follow by briskly rubbing down with another clean, soft cloth.
If the shaft requires additional cleaning I use lighter fluid. The lighter fluid also is great on a daily basis to. It leaves a slight coating on the shaft.
The final step is to burnish with a piece of un-dyed leather folllowed by wax paper slightly heated in the microwave.
I don't use any wax product because the shaft will become sticky from hand oils, etc.

Troy
JimS said:
I've been meaning to try wax paper and never remember to do it. This time I'm writing it down right this freakin minute. :)

I'm not a good player but I'm a nut for having the tip, ferrule and shaft as perfect as possible and I think I've tried every method and product to reach perfection (except for the wax paper). And...I've been taught by the PRO. For those who don't know who the PRO of shaft maintainence is look up Troy. He is the man. We only disagree on one thing and that is the use of the Magic Eraser on wood.
 
I know Troy...I was kidding more than anything but on line you can't see the devilish grin I was wearing as I typed.

I haven't tried the Simple Green recommendation yet either. I've always got some in the house as it's THE BEST all purpose cleaner in captivity, imo, but I never seem remember to use it on the shafts. Besides, I don't have anymore dirty shafts to play around with.

I do however still get stained ferrules so I'll have to give the Simple Green a try there.

Thanks Troy. I feel like we've become OLD friends. Not that you are old..... :)
 
Troy said:
We don't necessarily disagree about the Magic Eraser® use Jim. All I've ever said is that my old package indicates "not for use on bare wood".
I use Simple Green® diluted with 2 parts water in a spray bottle plus a clean, soft cloth. I do NOT drown the towel/shaft, but get it sufficiently damp to do the job. I follow by briskly rubbing down with another clean, soft cloth.
If the shaft requires additional cleaning I use lighter fluid. The lighter fluid also is great on a daily basis to. It leaves a slight coating on the shaft.
The final step is to burnish with a piece of un-dyed leather folllowed by wax paper slightly heated in the microwave.
I don't use any wax product because the shaft will become sticky from hand oils, etc.

Troy
So all the products people sell are not worth it? Your talking about the Mr Clean Magic Eraser right also?
 
first

First, cough up $10 and have a professional refinish your shaft for you.

then to maintain:

I use a Kroger product called 'Orange' made from oranges and biodegradable.
Cleans the shaft and ferrule. Spray on paper towel and use.

Next I use a wood 'polish' like Pledge, no oil, on a paper towel and go over
the shaft, careful not to get it on the ferrule.

Works great, cheap to use, and I clean my shaft 1 or 2 times a week before
I go play.
 
pharaoh68 said:
I second that. Magic eraser (aka - melamine sponge) is a cleaning lifesaver. It can make any old shaft look brand new.

Didn't work for me. Helped a little.
 
LancerV said:
Whats the best way to clean a shaft, mine is kinda sticky, and has lost its slick feeling. Ive heard using like a 2kgrit sandpaper works

First off let me say an OUNCE of Prevention, is Better than a Pound of Cure.

1. Always Play with Clean Hands.

2. Always have a Soft Cloth or Towel to WIPE your Hand on as You play.

3. Chalk on your Tip ONLY, and not Tip & Ferrule

4. Tiger Products LEDR Burnishing Leather Works wonders to Keep Shafts GLASS SMOOTH, so they clean up easily.

5. Friend swears by SHARK OIL Shaft Conditioner , for CLEANING, and SEALING.

6. Whip you shaft down frequently during Play, and post Play with an Old Soft T-Shirt, or other Soft Cloth.
:cool: :D :cool: :D
 
For a very dirty shaft, I use paint thinner/acetone to wipe out all the surface dirt, then I apply diluted wood bleach and let it sit under sun light. I use vinegar to neturalize the bleaching reaction when the wood is white enough, I then burnish and seal with pure carnuba wax on my lathe at the end.

I do not find the magic eraser really that "magical" myself.

I sometimes use a carnuba wax cleaner from Mothers to clean my shaft and it usually feels very smooth afterwards.

Richard
 
The reason why wax gets too sticky after a while is probably because youve used too much. I use wax from a can, using a piece of toilet paper to dab it on the shaft. Then burnish it in with a piece of leather and then take an index card to "slice" off any left over wax, then finish teh burnishing. Of course, even if you wax the shaft that doesnt mean that you can play with dirty hands. Same basic rules apply such as cleaning yur hands and wiping down the shaft once in a while. Once it feels like the shaft is getting sticky, just burnish it again. I havent waxed my shaft in a week and its still pretty slick.

I dont use the magic eraser. I just got a bucket of rough touch scrubs and it works really well to get the blue out.
http://www.sprintproductsgroup.com/pdf/Scrubs_in_a_bucket.pdf
 
I don't mean to put down "cue specific" products"; however, I've found that most are re-packaged ingredients at a higher price.
I don't use Magic Eraser® 'cuz my (old) package indicated it's not for use on bare wood and that's enough for me.

Troy
LancerV said:
So all the products people sell are not worth it? Your talking about the Mr Clean Magic Eraser right also?
 
i use a murphys oil soap mixture to clean the floors in my apt,now i use it on my cuesticks.works ok on the shaft but not as well on the ferrule.
 
Back
Top