best way to rotate table

david-N

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what's the best way to rotate a 9' table without having to disassemble and reassemble? i just need to rotate it 90 degrees clockwise (or counter clockwise). i was thinking a couple of car jacks and a couple of friends to help balance and move...
 
Presuming the floor is smooth - if it was me I'd get a helper and turn it in place sitting on the floor. If the table was initially setup correctly you should be ok. Check the level when done.
 
Presuming the floor is smooth - if it was me I'd get a helper and turn it in place sitting on the floor. If the table was initially setup correctly you should be ok. Check the level when done.

No!!!! LOL I've seen too many that moving like this put too much side to side pressure on the legs and broke them off of the frame. Totally depends on what kind of table/floor/etc you have. Some times, carpet sliders can help, but I've also seen legs broken using them. I think the best way is I couple of furniture dollies and careful lifting in the right places.
 
I rotated a 10X5 snooker table with one hand using those Teflon furniture sliders. I have some large size ones. Jack the table using the frame enough to get the sliders under the legs. Let the table down easy. Slide the table where you want it. Then repeat jacking procedure to remove the sliders.
 
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http://www.harborfreight.com/movers-dolly-93888.html

Watch for sales. I pick up a few when they go down to $6.99. I probably have a dozen or more laying around. Pretty useful for all sorts of stuff.
 
I rotated a 10X5 snooker table with one hand using those Teflon furniture sliders. I have some large size ones. Jack the table using the frame enough to get the sliders under the legs. Let the table down easy. Slide the table where you want it. Then repeat jacking procedure to remove the sliders.

I recently used this exact same procedure to move a 10' Diamond in a pool room. The furniture sliders worked great. I bought mine @ Home Depot for around $8. Money well spent IMO :thumbup:
 
thanks for all the suggestions. it's a GC4 and it's in the garage. the flooring was finished with a rough kind of finish, not really smooth at all. it's also sitting on a rug that needs to be rotated as well so i think perhaps the furniture dollies reinforced w/ ply to make sure the foot plates don't go right through the opening will probably work the best. my biggest concern will be to make sure the table is jacked up evenly as to not break the legs.
 
Table

thanks for all the suggestions. it's a GC4 and it's in the garage. the flooring was finished with a rough kind of finish, not really smooth at all. it's also sitting on a rug that needs to be rotated as well so i think perhaps the furniture dollies reinforced w/ ply to make sure the foot plates don't go right through the opening will probably work the best. my biggest concern will be to make sure the table is jacked up evenly as to not break the legs.

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You will need to jack up the table by the timber sill/frame and not by the legs, it's a breeze once you know how to do it.
Its a one guy job.
You will be jacking it up side to side and not end to end as you suspected.

Best of luck
Rob.M
 
so i'll either need to build or put the jack on something in order for the jack to reach the bottom of the frame, correct? would you recommend 4 jacks then?
 
If you just have a bottle jack, just put cribbing under it, 4x4s or 2x2s work fine. Do one side under the side pocket jacking it up under the lowest part of the frame, only raise it just enough to put the dollies under it. Then move to the other side and do the same.

If you have a automotive jack, just cut a 4x4 long enough to bridge the distance between the jacking plate on the jack and the bottom of the frame.
 
Table

so i'll either need to build or put the jack on something in order for the jack to reach the bottom of the frame, correct? would you recommend 4 jacks then?

There is a few ways to shore up the table to place a wheeled dolly,sliders or installing a rug under the legs. GC 4 frame is known for the end frame to not hold tight so when you jack up the frame side to side it could shift popping the slate seams or screw holes, I'm not saying all GC4's have the issue but it is a possibility on your table. If its a drop pocket table it's a little easier and less of a chance of slate movement to jack it end to end with a green treated 4x4 spanned across "under" the end of the frame timber tails, be sure to get the jack centered using the rail aiming sight as a reference for center to place the jack under the 4x4 to frame.
The frame can be reinforced to fix a end sill sag but the table will need to come apart to do so.
Make sure you can screw the feet in and out all the way and make sure the threaded insert for the feet are secure in place, if not its a good time to do the repair while its jacked up in the air.
I've had good results using a GC simple lifting rig that RKC suggested.
You'd be shocked to know that just about everybody has the most important part needed to lift a GC.
If you jack the table side to side just go slow and only high enough to place a moving device under the feet.
Best of luck, take your time and be safe.
Rob.M

Edit: which reminds me, pat'O had a table jack "ez-jack" that I need to build a copy of if I can't find one
 
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Would it be possible for someone to post pics or a video of the side to side lift and move procedure. I have to move my GC1 about 10ft and its on a reg unfinished concrete basement floor. If moving the table in this manner requires re leveling, I'll have to look for a table mechanic to do it.

TIA
 
No!!!! LOL I've seen too many that moving like this put too much side to side pressure on the legs and broke them off of the frame. Totally depends on what kind of table/floor/etc you have. Some times, carpet sliders can help, but I've also seen legs broken using them. I think the best way is I couple of furniture dollies and careful lifting in the right places.

Did you get my PM.

Thanks
 
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