Bowling alley shaft wood

Kobachi

Scarred but Smarter
....seems to be (by me anywho), a fairly newer trend lately. I don't really remember reading much about them being used before a few years ago, though I could be way off.

I'm curious what you guys generally think of the use of these boards, slabs, whatever you call them.

What are the advantages of using these? Are there disadvantages? Are they heavier? More stable? Dense?

For sake of argument, let's assume the wood is from a bowling alley at least 50-60 years old.

Thanks, I appreciate your thoughts cue smiths.

Kevin
 
As a long time carpenter and woodworker I have my opinion. I'm very interested to hear what the cuemakers have to say.
 
....seems to be (by me anywho), a fairly newer trend lately. I don't really remember reading much about them being used before a few years ago, though I could be way off.

I'm curious what you guys generally think of the use of these boards, slabs, whatever you call them.

What are the advantages of using these? Are there disadvantages? Are they heavier? More stable? Dense?

For sake of argument, let's assume the wood is from a bowling alley at least 50-60 years old.

Thanks, I appreciate your thoughts cue smiths.

Kevin

If the maple came from bowling allies 2 or 300 years old as that was the end of the straight grained, old growth trees I may be convinced that some of the wood might make a better shaft than what is available today from dealers who pick the logs, properly cut such logs, age and then dry these logs under perfect conditions for just one item, which happens to be a cue shaft. Bowling alley wood is just flat sawn maple, purchased from a lumber yard with absolutely no regard as to the straightness of grain nor grains per inch nor the amount of oil that has soaked into it for years.

I am a strong believer in the truthfulness of non-truthful rumors. Just look on the cue and case for sale forum. All you need is a few shills to proclaim what a wonderful cue you have for sale and in no time everyone is swearing that it is the best cue ever built and can't believe that it's not sold yet.

Dick
 
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I was lucky that I only spent a small amount for some bowling ally squares a couple of years ago, needless to say it was junk.
 
I was lucky that I only spent a small amount for some bowling ally squares a couple of years ago, needless to say it was junk.

Thanks for responding Busbee,

Question, did you know the age of the wood / lanes that you worked with?

Just wondering...

Kevin
 
If the maple came from bowling allies 2 or 300 years old as that was the end of the straight grained, old growth trees I may be convinced that some of the wood might make a better shaft than what is available today

Dick,

Thanks for your response, 2-300 year old alleys would be ideal no doubt, and good luck finding that for sure. I wish I had a line on those. There's probably a couple of hidden alleys that old here in Chicago boarded up for sure.

Any other opinions out there?
 
Alley floors were NEVER originally cut to be used in a cue. They were cut, as Dick pointed out, to be a flat piece of wood to bounce a heavy ball on, nothing more. The old alleys have old growth maple, so yes it's old, and more dense then what may be available now, but it wasn't cut to have straight grain, shaft quality dowels made from it. It was used because it didn't dent as easy as other woods did, was relatively cheap, and was nailed down every few inches so it couldn't move. I'm sure if you sort thru hundreds of board foot lumber from an old alley, you may find a small percentage of them that MAY work, but, right off the bat, they were air dried which means there can be a large amount of stress built up in these boards, which when cut for 1" squares, may twist more than Chubby Checkers did. Being old doesn't mean it has released the stress at all, especially concerning a bowling alley where balls are being banged into it constantly while the boards are nailed in such a way that they won't move.
Just My take on it, maybe wrong. To me, not worth the extra money, otherwise if it was a goldmine type deal, a BIG cue company would buy up every old bowling alley in the country faster than it took me to write this....
Dave
 
I did purchase several blanks worth of bowling alley wood. It is wood, just like any other wood is wood. If the ring count is there (it is) and the grain is straight (it is) it can make good shafts, if it is dry (it is). I'm not going to get snobby about the source if the quality is there.
 
I did purchase several blanks worth of bowling alley wood. It is wood, just like any other wood is wood. If the ring count is there (it is) and the grain is straight (it is) it can make good shafts, if it is dry (it is). I'm not going to get snobby about the source if the quality is there.

Well said! It is no better than any other proper piece of shaft wood. That is unless you are trying to sell it.
 
Got these a while back. After a little dissecting and looking I decided they would make great shelves.

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Okay, lets make this simple. The shaft is the egg shell of the cue. No one knows exactly what it is going to do until it goes through some cutting stages and ages. Some wood never makes it.

Would I pay the going rate after it was cut in 1" squares and liked it? No question.

If for nothing else it would make a great wood to V groove and use as seamless points, dyed or not dyed.

Some Cue Makers paid big money for maple from a ship that was buiried in the water for centurys. I could care less if a bowling ball was dropped on it a million times.

Other options are to burn it which is a very stupid option.
 
i would compare it to

the old one piece house cues that i buy to get my shaft wood, some pieces are really great, some are just average, and some are just junk. i do not think the place you get your shaft wood is near important, as cutting it and picking out the higher quality pieces, as with most places you get your wood, some will be great and some will be crap.
 
The ones I saw were air dried. knotty, sugary, light and had low ring count.
I wouldn't even use them as coring dowels.
 
Joey, you need to find better Bowling Alleys.:rotflmao1:

The ones where they use pool cue maple ?

I like graded sanded dowels.
Squares and planks are for suckers or people with a lot of patience and time.
 
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joey

not all of us small builders have your vast contacts, we have to get it where we can (:
 
Ist off not a cuemaker. I think the bowling alley shafts can be as good or as bad as the next straight maple shaft. Recently bought a Pierce with 2 bowling alley shafts and really like the hit. Played with a few high end cues and feel the Pierce rates right there. Probably more to do with the cues construction methods, but these 2 particular shafts did not hurt cues feedback in any way. just a players perspective
 
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