This is a rather interesting scenario. Both shots have the cue-ball and low-ball in identical places. How would you play them? Would you play them differently?
Brain Food - How Would You Play This?
- Thread starter Jude Rosenstock
- Start date
Hi Jude, hows it going?
in both cases, I'm going forward with a touch of inside....kind of a 10 o'clock center ball pound shot. Too many times I've tried to draw out and scratched in the side, or long corner. I feel I can control follow easier than draw on this shot...
Gerry
in both cases, I'm going forward with a touch of inside....kind of a 10 o'clock center ball pound shot. Too many times I've tried to draw out and scratched in the side, or long corner. I feel I can control follow easier than draw on this shot...
Gerry
Half a tip of right english and a hard, level stroke should send it past mid-table on the bottom cushion for both shots. I might stroke it a bit harder on the bottom setup just to get straighter on the 9. It's a lot less complicated and requires only slightly more power than any top-left english shot.
Hierovision said:
Maybe for the second one. One the first one definately play it 3 rails with high left...that way you are holding an angle on the 8 so that you can get back down to the 9.
In the second one, you do not have to have an angle you can get straight in and be fine...but I would probably play it the same way, just out of habbit...and going away from habbits often reminds you why you have developed that habbit when you scratch.
id play both with 9 to 10 oclock english on them, should go 3 rails for perfect shape both times
center ball RH english on both
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First scenario I would center ball the 7 and play one rail shape -- this would give me confidence that at least I would be close to the 8 (and not close to the rail) if I ended up with little or no angle.
Second shot, I am in agreement with everyone else. Inside english for 2 or 3 rail shape.
Second shot, I am in agreement with everyone else. Inside english for 2 or 3 rail shape.
Great minds think alike. I would go two or three rails with 10:00 English. When a dog scratches too much in Tennessee---we just shoot it.
Got to say that with the object so close to the pocket and the rail, that you dont need to do much to get er back down the table, just a whisper below center and back down she comes, same shot to get back to the 9.
But if I were just dicking around, then I would probably juice her up a bit and 3 rails, but for the cash I am going to keep it simple, one track line through the center.
But if I were just dicking around, then I would probably juice her up a bit and 3 rails, but for the cash I am going to keep it simple, one track line through the center.
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If Im hitting the balls a little hard on a particular day, the 3 rail shot is what I would go for (more room for error on speed control). If I had my touch working well, a little draw one rail down the table for the next ball (easier to do, providing the speed control is there).
Chuck
Chuck
RiverCity said:
That room for error on the speed control is the key, I was going to point that out... If you are playing on the same table you always play on, sure one rail would be cake but there is still a pocket down there.
Assuming I'm gambling...it's 9ball after all...
I would be running it two thru the corners with enough speed to get the third rail.....if playing on a coin-op I would ask the guy if he wants to give me class and save the balls for an extra game...
I would be running it two thru the corners with enough speed to get the third rail.....if playing on a coin-op I would ask the guy if he wants to give me class and save the balls for an extra game...
Yeah, there is a chance of a scratch there if you use just a little bottom left or you use too much bottom. Maybe it is the 2D look that is messing my judgement here, but a dead center punch would probably hit the 8, take that 1/8 inch below center (almost STOP SHOT in not exactly) and you have (table size) 9-12 feet or so to move the cue and have a decent shot. I have went the 2 rail shot and scratched more than not, although if I make it firm enough to go the 3 rail route I have never scratched, but I have ended up either on, or over the 8 and felt just as stuck.
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I'm going with forward on both shots. On the first shot I'll play at ten o'clock on the cue ball in order to contact the third rail two diamonds up from the corner pocket. There's no way on earth that I'm going to take any chances of scratching or getting straight on the eight ball. I'm very confident with that shot and I can reliably target any of the three diamonds on the third rail, so I'd go that way just about every time, and I'm in perfect line the minute I get two inches off the third rail.
On the second shot, I'll play it long so that the third rail would be the short rail that the nine is on. On this shot, I don't have to worry about whether I get straight in.
On the second shot, I'll play it long so that the third rail would be the short rail that the nine is on. On this shot, I don't have to worry about whether I get straight in.
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????????????
High left on 7 ball hith below side pocket come off rail about 1 ft. cut in 8 ball with center ball come back up for 9 ball half way between side an corner pocket this takes scratch out of play shoot in 9 ball.
The second one use middle left cut in 8 ball go two rails to bottom rail skoot 9 ball straight in.
The english you use in both diagrams will help you pocket the balls avoid draw in both diagrams or you might or you might be inviting disaster.
Pinocchio
High left on 7 ball hith below side pocket come off rail about 1 ft. cut in 8 ball with center ball come back up for 9 ball half way between side an corner pocket this takes scratch out of play shoot in 9 ball.
The second one use middle left cut in 8 ball go two rails to bottom rail skoot 9 ball straight in.
The english you use in both diagrams will help you pocket the balls avoid draw in both diagrams or you might or you might be inviting disaster.
Pinocchio
I love these threads... It's nice how there is an image and not a wei table or something for this. I'm at work and can only view the images!
I'd likely play them differently... especially on a table that tended to be a bit slow. (On a faster table, I'm a bit more likely to play them the same.)
In case #1, I favor playing the shot with low/right for one-rail shape ... targeting for whitey to end up 1.5 diamonds below center table and 2 diamonds this side of the 8... thereby providing me the cut angle to get back up river for the 9. If I get close to this position, getting back upriver is relatively easy. Also, experience has shown me that when I play this shot with high/inside on a slower table, that because of the powering-up effect, I'm likely to get too straight on the 8 to get back up river for the 9... or I could come up way short by over-spinning whitey.
On case #2, I'd definitely play high/inside 3-rail position (targeting for whitey to go through the true center of the table) to get down to the 9.
In case #1, I favor playing the shot with low/right for one-rail shape ... targeting for whitey to end up 1.5 diamonds below center table and 2 diamonds this side of the 8... thereby providing me the cut angle to get back up river for the 9. If I get close to this position, getting back upriver is relatively easy. Also, experience has shown me that when I play this shot with high/inside on a slower table, that because of the powering-up effect, I'm likely to get too straight on the 8 to get back up river for the 9... or I could come up way short by over-spinning whitey.
On case #2, I'd definitely play high/inside 3-rail position (targeting for whitey to go through the true center of the table) to get down to the 9.
In the past, I would have used low-right on the 7 to get to the near side rail and leave an angle on the 8 so I could drift straight down table for the 9. The usual results were: 1) an occasional scratch on the 7 or 8, 2) leaving the CB frozen to the side rail, 3) missing the 7 due to the spin, & 4) leaving a thin cut on the 9 and hanging it for my oppponent.
Just this last weekend I got a preview of what Little Joe will be revealing on his upcoming cue ball position DVD and I would play it much smarter now! Please look at "cuetable" diagram below.
On the 7 I would use about 1/8" to 3/16" draw-no english (to avoid falling on top of the 8 without scratching) and I would use a trace of draw-no english (to avoid a fluke scratch in the corner) on the 8. Little chance of scratching...no chance of missing due to english-induced throw...and little chance of leaving myself with a thin cut due to poor speed. On each shot, I've given myself about 4-5' of felt to land on without leaving anything more than a trivial cut shot.
Hurry up with the DVD Little Joe...I can't wait to learn the rest of your cue ball secrets!!!
Just this last weekend I got a preview of what Little Joe will be revealing on his upcoming cue ball position DVD and I would play it much smarter now! Please look at "cuetable" diagram below.
On the 7 I would use about 1/8" to 3/16" draw-no english (to avoid falling on top of the 8 without scratching) and I would use a trace of draw-no english (to avoid a fluke scratch in the corner) on the 8. Little chance of scratching...no chance of missing due to english-induced throw...and little chance of leaving myself with a thin cut due to poor speed. On each shot, I've given myself about 4-5' of felt to land on without leaving anything more than a trivial cut shot.
Hurry up with the DVD Little Joe...I can't wait to learn the rest of your cue ball secrets!!!
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