Break cue w/ ivory ferrule
- Thread starter zeeder
- Start date
Not recomended to use ivory ferruls for breaking or the joint area......use a different cue.
:smile:
:smile:
I don't know
why everyone thinks ivory joints and ferrules are great. I always found them to have kind a dead feel to them with not much feedback on the hit.
A SS or wood-to-wood joint is much better for a break cue than ivory. Have seen ivory joints and ferrules cracked several times.
why everyone thinks ivory joints and ferrules are great. I always found them to have kind a dead feel to them with not much feedback on the hit.
A SS or wood-to-wood joint is much better for a break cue than ivory. Have seen ivory joints and ferrules cracked several times.
Maybe it's just me,but I'd be more leery of using an ivory joint to break with,than the ivory ferrule.
So far in my experience,unless you have Larry Nevel-type power in your break,masse a LOT of balls where the tip drives into the table,or something else out of the ordinary,you almost can't break a capped ivory ferrule.
From what I've seen in 20 years around this stuff,almost every ivory ferrule that I've seen cracked or flat broken was caused by one of 2 things.
Weather care,where it got too hot or cold (cold is worse here),or a tip that either wasn't protected with a pad or had a tip that was down to 1/32 sidewall thickness.
I saw a guy come into one of the Memphis rooms with an old SW,with an ivory ferrule on one of the shafts. This cue was stored in a soft case,but had been in a VERY cold car for a few hours. The 2nd ball he hit left the table covered with probably 500 small,very sharp shards because the ferrule literally exploded.
The thin tip was caused by a player laying into a hard draw shot,and miscuing. A good sized piece of the ferrule came out of the side of the cap.
I'm not trying to refute those here than know more,just offering a different perspective. Tommy D.
So far in my experience,unless you have Larry Nevel-type power in your break,masse a LOT of balls where the tip drives into the table,or something else out of the ordinary,you almost can't break a capped ivory ferrule.
From what I've seen in 20 years around this stuff,almost every ivory ferrule that I've seen cracked or flat broken was caused by one of 2 things.
Weather care,where it got too hot or cold (cold is worse here),or a tip that either wasn't protected with a pad or had a tip that was down to 1/32 sidewall thickness.
I saw a guy come into one of the Memphis rooms with an old SW,with an ivory ferrule on one of the shafts. This cue was stored in a soft case,but had been in a VERY cold car for a few hours. The 2nd ball he hit left the table covered with probably 500 small,very sharp shards because the ferrule literally exploded.
The thin tip was caused by a player laying into a hard draw shot,and miscuing. A good sized piece of the ferrule came out of the side of the cap.
I'm not trying to refute those here than know more,just offering a different perspective. Tommy D.
Doode...
Tommy is right on the money IMO. I've been playing ivory ferrules for years and I can jump balls, break, whatever with ivory and I've never sustained any damage whatsoever.
Actually, I currently play with an ivory joint and ferrule cue and break with that mofo too. It's got a Kamui Black Hard medium on it. I break with my playing cue. (I don't crush the balls when I break) Solid contact hit with 75% does what you need providing you got good rack.
I went to Spanky's last night, and he had something crazy but very unique. It was a super fat what looked to be palm wood with a Samsara tip on it. It had to have been 16-17mm. Very interesting.
Samsara's, Joseph Picone's, Super Pro's... (with a Buffalo Horn Ferrule)
That's what I would use (in any order) if I were to use a dedicated break cue.
Tommy is right on the money IMO. I've been playing ivory ferrules for years and I can jump balls, break, whatever with ivory and I've never sustained any damage whatsoever.
Actually, I currently play with an ivory joint and ferrule cue and break with that mofo too. It's got a Kamui Black Hard medium on it. I break with my playing cue. (I don't crush the balls when I break) Solid contact hit with 75% does what you need providing you got good rack.
I went to Spanky's last night, and he had something crazy but very unique. It was a super fat what looked to be palm wood with a Samsara tip on it. It had to have been 16-17mm. Very interesting.
Samsara's, Joseph Picone's, Super Pro's... (with a Buffalo Horn Ferrule)
That's what I would use (in any order) if I were to use a dedicated break cue.
Thanks everyone for your help! I definitely don't have Larry Nevel power on the break and a lot of the time I do try for more of a controlled break. I think I might go ahead and post it for sale/trade and look for a dedicated jump/break and if I don't get any action I'll put a Samsara or Picone tip on it and go from there.
I changed a tip on a cue and saw that it was an ivory ferrule and there was a pad under the tip. I put on a hard tip like the owner asked and replaced the pad.
He uses it for a break stick and has for at least 5 years.
I warned him about it but he likes it.
go figure
Kim
He uses it for a break stick and has for at least 5 years.
I warned him about it but he likes it.
go figure
Kim
I too have never had any issues with ivory ferrules while breaking or anything else for that matter....I break and play with the same cue.
I know it's green ivory versus aged ivory, but I just can't see how it would be much change in the two.....Have you ever seen two bull elephants fight? Very violent and alot of force is applied to their tusks..... Those tusks survive most of those fights, which tells me ivory is a fairly durable material.
Through logic and educated guesses, I've concluded that ivory ferrule issues arise from a piece of ivory that was cracked or had a weak spot and would have broken while breaking or playing a normal shot. Whereas a "good" piece, will last for many breaks and years.
Just my two cents.
I know it's green ivory versus aged ivory, but I just can't see how it would be much change in the two.....Have you ever seen two bull elephants fight? Very violent and alot of force is applied to their tusks..... Those tusks survive most of those fights, which tells me ivory is a fairly durable material.
Through logic and educated guesses, I've concluded that ivory ferrule issues arise from a piece of ivory that was cracked or had a weak spot and would have broken while breaking or playing a normal shot. Whereas a "good" piece, will last for many breaks and years.
Just my two cents.