Break Cue Weight/Speed Question

Spimp13

Spimp13

O8 Specialist
Silver Member
One of my 2014 goals is to improve my break to give myself more opportunities to runout. I can occasionally break well, but am inconsistent.

This might be more of a science question.

To generate the most speed/power is it better to have a lighter cue, or a heavier cue? My first instinct would say lighter cue to be able to break quicker...however maybe the tradeoff for the extra ounces compensates here. I would like to try to not look at this from the fundamental side of the question...but purely the weight of the cue.

I am 5'7, about 150 and probably break between 17-20 tops...I definitely do not break very hard even when I "crush it" in my standards.

Now I know that breaking hard isn't necessarily the formula for success and I should definitely focus on accuracy/cue ball control...however I do occasionally play on tables that do not break very well so an extra umf would be nice.

I own a BK II 18.5 oz (as an estimate) and may be in the market to upgrade. I would appreciate a few replies to this question if everyone is able to step away from the with all due respect thread lol. Thanks
 
Spimp13 said:
One of my 2014 goals is to improve my break to give myself more opportunities to runout. I can occasionally break well, but am inconsistent.

This might be more of a science question.

To generate the most speed/power is it better to have a lighter cue, or a heavier cue? My first instinct would say lighter cue to be able to break quicker...however maybe the tradeoff for the extra ounces compensates here. I would like to try to not look at this from the fundamental side of the question...but purely the weight of the cue.

I am 5'7, about 150 and probably break between 17-20 tops...I definitely do not break very hard even when I "crush it" in my standards.

Now I know that breaking hard isn't necessarily the formula for success and I should definitely focus on accuracy/cue ball control...however I do occasionally play on tables that do not break very well so an extra umf would be nice.

I own a BK II 18.5 oz (as an estimate) and may be in the market to upgrade. I would appreciate a few replies to this question if everyone is able to step away from the with all due respect thread lol. Thanks
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Your BKII is a fine break cue. Personally I don't see where a cue is going to make much difference. I've timed my break with different weight cues and it hasn't had an effect.

If you're trying to improve your 9 ball break, I would focus on skill rather than power. If you can make a corner ball and have an idea of where the one ball is going and play shape for it, or are able to make the one in the side a lot, you will be light years ahead of most players. I've been working on this a lot lately and I would say my break and run percentage has gone up quite a bit. Power looks good but controlling the game is where it's at.
 
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Depends on the game, I think.

For 8b, I prefer to use the 2nd-ball break. You still get a good percentage for pocketing and don't need as much power. Works very well on Diamond boxes and bar tables that may not have very good racking spots.

For 9b, it's more about CB location and finding the spot.

I like to use my 15oz for breaking, but I'm slowly switching over to the break cue to keep from hammering my tip down all of the time. The phenolic tip seems to send the CB on its way pretty well without throwing myself at the table.

If you want to add some power, take a look at Blackjack's power-breaking video on Youtube.
 
I'm not too worried about my 9 ball break...thinking more of the 8 ball break on slower tables...as in would a 18-18.5 oz be much different than a 21-22 oz or is the tradeoff about the same on speed/power?

Keep in mind not talking about the fundamental part of the break, but the weight of the cue/speed of the swing side of the equation.
 
This is an unscientific personal observation.
My break cue is 19 oz with a 3 oz weight bolt. I used it for a while at 19 oz and then took the weight bolt out making it 16 oz and to me the balls broke better.
I think i generated a little more speed with the lighter weight.
 
TATE said:
Your BKII is a fine break cue. Personally I don't see where a cue is going to make much difference. I've timed my break with different weight cues and it hasn't had an effect.

If you're trying to improve your 9 ball break, I would focus on skill rather than power. If you can make a corner ball and play shape on the 1 ball, or make the one in the side consistently, you will be light years ahead of most players. I've been working on this a lot lately and I would say my break and run percentage has gone up quite a bit. Power looks good but controlling the game is where it's at.
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Based upon MY experience, I will agree 100%

I actually think that a lighter cue allows a player MORE control when trying to hit the cueball with "POWER".

The KEY to a GOOD break is a "PRECISION", "SOLID" hit on front ball. If you can hit the front ball "SOLID" (in the spot you are aiming for) , then most of your breaking worries should be over.

I practice my break and even though I don't have it down to a science yet, I can hit them A HELL OF A LOT better than most people I see breaking.

Most people think hitting the balls as hard as you possibly can and letting them fly "willy nilly" around the table is the best break. Surely it must be good...because it made a LOUD noise and people looked over.

Well, that ISN'T necessarily the case. I'd rather have a "CONTROLLED" break where I have some sort of "confidence" that I will make a ball and further "confidence" that the cue ball will be somewhere in the center of the table at the onset of the game.

There are a hell of a lot more break and runs with "controlled" breaks than there are in "crap shoot" breaks that use MAX force.

That's my opinion anyway.
 
Let's make the assumption that the fundamental/controlled aspect of my break is fine. Which end of the weight spectrum will produce the highest speed/power? If I could break the balls a bit harder/wider open it will give me more practice and possibly confidence in running out instead of having clusters on a lot of breaks.
 
HawaiianEye said:
Based upon MY experience, I will agree 100%

I actually think that a lighter cue allows a player MORE control when trying to hit the cueball with "POWER".

The KEY to a GOOD break is a "PRECISION", "SOLID" hit on front ball. If you can hit the front ball "SOLID" (in the spot you are aiming for) , then most of your breaking worries should be over.

I practice my break and even though I don't have it down to a science yet, I can hit them A HELL OF A LOT better than most people I see breaking.

Most people think hitting the balls as hard as you possibly can and letting them fly "willy nilly" around the table is the best break. Surely it must be good...because it made a LOUD noise and people looked over.

Well, that ISN'T necessarily the case. I'd rather have a "CONTROLLED" break where I have some sort of "confidence" that I will make a ball and further "confidence" that the cue ball will be somewhere in the center of the table at the onset of the game.

There are a hell of a lot more break and runs with "controlled" breaks than there are in "crap shoot" breaks that use MAX force.

That's my opinion anyway.
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the "willy nilly" break should always be avoided. I like that.
From time to time I try to teach people how to break better.It hurts my eyes the way some people do it.
From now on i will add "willy nilly" to the discussion on breaking.
 
Spimp13 said:
Let's make the assumption that the fundamental/controlled aspect of my break is fine. Which end of the weight spectrum will produce the highest speed/power? If I could break the balls a bit harder/wider open it will give me more practice and possibly confidence in running out instead of having clusters on a lot of breaks.
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If you do a search there are break speed apps that you can put on your phone that will clock your break speed. then you can experiment with cue weight ,cue ball placement and technique.
If all else fails come to Denver and i will have you breaking like a champ in 30 minutes,no charge happy to help.
 
Spimp13 said:
Let's make the assumption that the fundamental/controlled aspect of my break is fine. Which end of the weight spectrum will produce the highest speed/power? If I could break the balls a bit harder/wider open it will give me more practice and possibly confidence in running out instead of having clusters on a lot of breaks.
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IMHO, I "THINK" lighter over heavier. I WOULDN'T break with a cue that weighs MORE than my normal playing cue. Both of mine are very close in weight.

I "THINK" that trying to POWER a HEAVY cue causes the player to OVER comepensate and they then DON'T hit the cue ball or target as ACCURATELY.

Now let the PROS jump in and tell me how wrong I am. :)
 
I like using light cues to break. The speed becomes higher, at least for me. Mine is around 17 - 17.5 oz. My understanding is when one breaks they just need to hit one single ball, so no weight is really needed but what really matters is the speed and technique.


Spimp13 said:
I'm not too worried about my 9 ball break...thinking more of the 8 ball break on slower tables...as in would a 18-18.5 oz be much different than a 21-22 oz or is the tradeoff about the same on speed/power?

Keep in mind not talking about the fundamental part of the break, but the weight of the cue/speed of the swing side of the equation.
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I have tried many break and jump break cues and currently use a Stinger made by Jerry Powers. If I were to change I'd go to a Rick Howard Mace break cue. I am slightly lighter in weight than the OP and would have one made at 17 ounces. I had the chance to use one several times when I played leagues and even tried to purchase it to no avail. I really liked it that much. Just my feelings on the subject...
 
measureman said:
If you do a search there are break speed apps that you can put on your phone that will clock your break speed. then you can experiment with cue weight ,cue ball placement and technique.
If all else fails come to Denver and i will have you breaking like a champ in 30 minutes,no charge happy to help.
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Lol well I have driven through Denver from Des Moines...this was in college (when we stayed at Breckenridge). I think it was about a 10-11 hour drive.

I just did a search and only saw one app called Break Speed. Is there another one that might be better to download?

One of the comments on the review was that there is no save, recall, or average. It only shows the speed for that break only.
 
measureman said:
the "willy nilly" break should always be avoided. I like that.
From time to time I try to teach people how to break better.It hurts my eyes the way some people do it.
From now on i will add "willy nilly" to the discussion on breaking.
Click to expand...

:)

Feel "FREE" to use MY "willy nilly" description whenever you want...I will forego all royalties in the cause of bettering pool.

:)
 
I break with a bk3 18oz. phenolic tip. About same weight as my playing cue. Mostly I'm at 18-19.5mph, about 1mph than my playing cue. Havent really gotten to work on my break mechanics yet. I play mostly 8b.
 
Banks said:
I think it had been figured that a light cue allows for more speed which increases total power more than the slower, heavier cue does.
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I think TOO MANY people EQUATE a powerful break with cue WEIGHT and that is a misconception. A POWERFUL break has to do MORE with "CONTROLLED" power than "how fast the ball hits the rack".

You can hit the rack at 100 MPH and if you only catch the EDGE of the ball you aimed at, then you are MORE THAN LIKELY to jump the table or get LESS of a POWERFUL break than you were trying for. From my observations and practice, I will STILL SAY that the "average" player can "control" a lighter stick when attempting to "body slam" the rack than they can with a "Louisville Slugger" style cue and break.

The KEY again is "CONTROLLED POWER AND ACCURACY"...NOT "WILLY NILLY" POWER!!!
 
HawaiianEye said:
I think TOO MANY people EQUATE a powerful break with cue WEIGHT and that is a misconception. A POWERFUL break has to do MORE with "CONTROLLED" power than "how fast the ball hits the rack".

You can hit the rack at 100 MPH and if you only catch the EDGE of the ball you aimed at, then you are MORE THAN LIKELY to jump the table or get LESS of a POWERFUL break than you were trying for. From my observations and practice, I will STILL SAY that the "average" player can "control" a lighter stick when attempting to "body slam" the rack than they can with a "Louisville Slugger" style cue and break.

The KEY again is "CONTROLLED POWER AND ACCURACY"...NOT "WILLY NILLY" POWER!!!
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I'm not disagreeing with you. I spent some time toning back my break to see how well the accuracy thing worked over just launching it willy nilly, so I know that a nice, solid hit can make a great break. But..

If you can get a solid hit, would it be easier to get more power from a lighter cue or a heavier cue?

I still say he should concentrate on the 2nd-ball break, because it's mostly technique and it is very difficult for anyone to hammer that kind of break, so being able to do so doesn't come into play much at all. Works especially well on tables that don't spread well/regularly with a head break, like some bar tables.
 
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