break cues worth the $$$$$$$$$$$$$
- Thread starter ILgrizz
- Start date
hmm..
my personal feeling is no. i have a J&J that hits just as good as a stinger...for breaking (not jumping) and cost a whole lot less.
the fad w/ the phenolic tip has kinda run its course for me as well...i prefer a little more cueball control w/ a regular tip on the break. to me it seems i lose control more often w/ the phenolic.
i have a 20oz. mc dermott that I prefer to break with over my J&J...but i don't use that mc dermott for regular play..only to break with as the tip gets mashed down more
my personal feeling is no. i have a J&J that hits just as good as a stinger...for breaking (not jumping) and cost a whole lot less.
the fad w/ the phenolic tip has kinda run its course for me as well...i prefer a little more cueball control w/ a regular tip on the break. to me it seems i lose control more often w/ the phenolic.
i have a 20oz. mc dermott that I prefer to break with over my J&J...but i don't use that mc dermott for regular play..only to break with as the tip gets mashed down more
I have a J&J and love it.....
I think depending on the cost and certain stuff, yea the cost can outweight the purpose......
I mean I did have a Omen J/B once and while i wish i could have it back lol, I wouldnt pay 4 to 500$ for one.....
I mean if money isnt a problem then what does it matter...
But for the money a J & J is breaks them pretty nice..
I think depending on the cost and certain stuff, yea the cost can outweight the purpose......
I mean I did have a Omen J/B once and while i wish i could have it back lol, I wouldnt pay 4 to 500$ for one.....
I mean if money isnt a problem then what does it matter...
But for the money a J & J is breaks them pretty nice..
After wasting money on break cues I think it is all hype and BS.
Many times I don't feel like getting out my break cue and I will break using my player. I don't break hard using it but get more action and will always make a ball or 2 plus I don't scratch and end up with a shot. The balls also spread nice.
Using one of my break cues I will slam the CB as hard as I can. Don't make anything and usually scratch or get hooked if I make a ball. Sometimes the balls will not spread out or will all group to one side of the table.
My opinion for what it is worth is no.
Just try using your player and don't hit any harder than a hard follow or stop shot.
Many times I don't feel like getting out my break cue and I will break using my player. I don't break hard using it but get more action and will always make a ball or 2 plus I don't scratch and end up with a shot. The balls also spread nice.
Using one of my break cues I will slam the CB as hard as I can. Don't make anything and usually scratch or get hooked if I make a ball. Sometimes the balls will not spread out or will all group to one side of the table.
My opinion for what it is worth is no.
Just try using your player and don't hit any harder than a hard follow or stop shot.
I used to think so but not anymore. There is so much more involved in the break than
just the cue that spending 500$ on a break cue just isnt worth it.
Break technique and how the balls are racked play a way bigger role in your break And you can get those for free! One through practice and the other through inspecting the rack.
Now i know someone will come on here (a cuemaker) and tell you yes theyre worth every penny and then some. But use your head, when you see nevel and hillbilly and busty and svb cracking em and controling the ball do you think taking away theyre break cue would take away theyre break? No. Then it must not be all about the stick.
just the cue that spending 500$ on a break cue just isnt worth it.
Break technique and how the balls are racked play a way bigger role in your break And you can get those for free! One through practice and the other through inspecting the rack.
Now i know someone will come on here (a cuemaker) and tell you yes theyre worth every penny and then some. But use your head, when you see nevel and hillbilly and busty and svb cracking em and controling the ball do you think taking away theyre break cue would take away theyre break? No. Then it must not be all about the stick.
I've never seent he need for a break cue, because my playing cue works just fine for my one pocket break
you'd be hard pressed to find a j/b cue that preforms better than a j&j. i've owned several break cues and my andy gilbert is the best i've owned. but a j&j comes damn close for a fraction of the cost
i just got a steal of a deal on a j&j and i recommend them to everyone that asks for a break cue suggestion.
one of these days i'll get an omen j/b. i've always liked the look of 'em and i'll probably use it to play with
OK, how's that go? "I'll be your huckleberry".
I'm not trying to sell anybody anything and yeah, I'm a CM.
What everyone seems to be missing is that in 9ball, the break is the most important shot of the game. If you're always breaking dry, (not making a ball), you're beating yourself before your opponent even gets to the table.
Control is key in 9ball. Break dry and you're handing that control to your opponent. You've lost the option of push or safe because he now has control of the table. You might as well sit down and wait to rack.
There is another reason for owning a dedicated break cue.
A lot of players are using laminated tips of a specific density/hardness on their game cue. In order to preserve the play characteristics of a soft, medium or whatever, they've decided to use a different cue for breaking. This preserves the hi-$$$ tip that's on their game cue.
My break cue shaft is 14mm. My game cue is 12.75mm. Which do you suppose opens the rack better? Anytime a shaft buckles/bows during the break, it's lost energy.
Again, not trying to sell anyone anything (other than a concept).
I know a little about cues but I'm also a player.
post up some pics and a description KJ.
i'm all for using another cue strictly for breaking.
A cuemaker that's not trying to sell anybody anything. Interesting concept. I hope your ditch digging business is going well.
I've made a few cues in my past as well. I don't use a break cue. If someone wants one, I'll make them one. As far as a "dedicated" break cue doing a better job, that's up for debate. Most players would be better off using their own cue, and concentrating on hitting the rack, and putting the cueball in a certain position. Or, at the pool hall I play at, they have racks full of "dedicated break cues". They're called house cues.
gpeezy
for sale!
I wouldn't suggest to anyone having problems with their break to invest in an expensive break cue. I do favor the BK2 by Predator. I find it the easiest phenolic tipped break cue to control. Mezz has a similar design although I didn't like it as much. I now break with my player. I'll promise that not many people hit them much harder than I do with their break cues. I do play with a hard tip though which probably saves me ferrules and shaping.
Just curious if the break cues you have used have a phenolic tip? My break cue (J&J Spark Break) came with one and while I could really pound the ball with it I had the same issue with "action" of the cue as you stated. I had the phenolic pulled off and had a Wizard Hard put on it by Tim Hewitt (it was also pounded with a dead blow hammer a few times first and he put a light layer of epoxy around the outside of the tip to give it a little extra hardness) and it was a night and day difference. I couldn't pound the ball quite as hard (but more than hard enough) and I once again had action on my cue ball.
What I get from my break cue with the hard layered leather tip that I don't get with my player (or house cue) is the difference in balance point (this cue is weighted more to the front) and the thicker and stiffer shaft. I will switch back and forth on my home table between using my break cue and my house cues for breaking and I do notice a difference in the power.
Just my $0.02 worth. Everyone gets different experiences and the only way to find out is to try to see if it works for you.
Brian
Good point. Both of my break cues still have the original tips.
What I don't understand and is confusing is why does the rack have to be hit as hard as possible on the break. Corey Deuel was able to make a ball, control the CB and then run out with a softer break. Other players have the same option, they could choose to break hard or soft. A soft break is now banned in many tournaments and the APA. It is in the APA rules. Breaking safe or soft is not allowed. The object of the break is to make a ball and control the CB. If you can hit the rack soft and do that great. Maybe the rules are made to have players buy and use break cues.
Which came first, the break cue or the 2x4 case?
Have you actually watched how much time Corey spends on setting up his rack? He sets up the individual balls positioned to be exactly in the proper space in the rack, either touching or not touching... A lot of people disagree with his racking technique and tournaments keep trying to ban it... It's one thing to watch a video of him doing it, it's another to watch it in person and see the intricacy of his rack...
Actually I think the reason it's in the APA rules has nothing to do with selling break sticks, it has to do with the time a match takes. Have you ever watched two APA SL2's trying to play a race to 2 in 8 ball when the break barely gets 4 balls to a rail and leaves a large cluster in the center? I've personally witnessed 1 hour and 45 minutes for such a race to two...
Brian
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There are surely valid reasons for a dedicated beak cue , whether or not it's "worth it" is the same question that applies to any playing cue over say$200 as well.
Only you an make that choice.
Only you an make that choice.
My low end custom break jump cue, the "Anvil" jump break is $375.00. Give me a credit card and an address and a weight, I'll ship the cue to you, you try it out for a few days and if you do not think it will help your break and jumping you can ship it back and I will pay the shipping. I expect you to treat it as a $375.00 cue and not abuse it but use it as much as it takes to decide. In 3 days if you are not satisfied call me and I will give the information for the return and I will refund your $375.00 in full.
You can decide for yourself. Mike Gulyassy
You can decide for yourself. Mike Gulyassy