Breaking Cue question

berlowmj said:
Can we add the tip into the discourse? Which leather tip? Leather vs phenolic?
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I prefer the X1 tip, I have a buddy that prefers the X2 tip.

The X1 is similiar to G10 material, just not as translucent.
 
See I should have took my time in buying my stick's because I just got back into pool when i was asked to join a league and so I was looking threw Pool Dawg Mag and seen Scorpion Cues and that was my first Choice and I didn't realize that the cues had a fiberglass Coating threw out the whole cue which is alright but i have to play with a glove .
 
I have a j/j with a different ferrule/tip combo that I like. Stock tip jumps better though.

80 bucks in it with two different cuemakers making changes to it. Breaks as well as the varney it replaced. Breaks better than the sledge hammer I used for awhile.

All in all breaks as good as any of the expensive ones at a 1/4 of the cost.
 
Me Thinks This Is Good . . .

manwon said:
Trust me on this, do not buy another cue, change the one you are currently using. I see this day in and day out on this forum and with customers walking into my retail store to buy the latest jump / break innovation!!!!!

Well, I am going to share a secret with you!!!!! THERE IS NO SECRET IT IS ALL A MIND GAME THAT PEOPLE PLAY WITH THEMSELVES!!!!!!!:yeah: :yeah: :yeah: Now please don't be upset by this post, it is not directed at you and I mean you know disrespect, I am actually trying to save you some money.:smile:

If your current break cue worked well for you at one time there is nothing wrong with the cue, you have changed something you were doing, most break cues will do the job if they are used correctly. Some need to be modified for a persons stroke or their individual feel. To modify these cues is much cheaper than a new cue and in many cases it will make them more user friendly for you personally.

1) Adjust the cues weight, try it both lighter and heavier than it currently is. By changing the cues weight in either direction by at least one oz, you will also move the balance point of the cue slightly forward or backward. This will change the entire feel of the cue much more than you think, and this may alone solve your problem.

2) Change the cues tip, there are many different types of tips for breaking cue to chose from. If you currently have a phenolic ferrule or tip try a leather hard tip. To go from phenolic to leather take the roundness off the Phenolic and face it flat and glue a leather tip directly to the Phenolic surface. If you find that you have better control with this set-up you are now good to go. If you currently have a leather tip, first have the leather tip removed and a Phenolic tip installed. If you like it and can control the ball well with it, you can always move up to Phenolic Ferrule when the tip wears out.

I think most people over look the changes above when they are not satisfied with their current break cue. In the end like I also said above in most cases the problem is with a persons technique, or stroke. Cues are nothing magic they are just tools that can only perform as well as the hands that use it are skilled.
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ADVICE . . . I did 1 & 2 above about six months ago . . . took a 20 oz. cheapie Fury . . . reduced the weight to 18 oz and put a White Diamond (Joe Picone) break tip on it . . . total cost $10 . . . plays as good if not better then my expensive SledgeHammer . . .

Having a more conventional break tip (hard leather etc.) versus phenolic brings you a LOT more control . . .

Magic advice from above . . . "Cues are nothing magic they are just tools that can only perform as well as the hands that use it are skilled." My dad took me to an exhibition as a kid to see Mosconi . . . he said he'd still make a 100 in a row with a broomstick . . . wish I'd remembered that on a couple of occasions.

Some practice and a little input from an instructor will take you farther faster!
 
DeepBanks said:
ADVICE . . . I did 1 & 2 above about six months ago . . . took a 20 oz. cheapie Fury . . . reduced the weight to 18 oz and put a White Diamond (Joe Picone) break tip on it . . . total cost $10 . . . plays as good if not better then my expensive SledgeHammer . . .

Having a more conventional break tip (hard leather etc.) versus phenolic brings you a LOT more control . . .

Magic advice from above . . . "Cues are nothing magic they are just tools that can only perform as well as the hands that use it are skilled." My dad took me to an exhibition as a kid to see Mosconi . . . he said he'd still make a 100 in a row with a broomstick . . . wish I'd remembered that on a couple of occasions.

Some practice and a little input from an instructor will take you farther faster!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words, it is amazing how simple it all really is!!!!!:smile: I own a pool room, a retail store for billiards equipment, and I repair and build cues. I deal with these kinda questions every day, and I also watch people chase the next the magic MOP HANDLE that is going to change everything and make them break like Johnny Archer. What I have said here on this forum about the subject is exactly what I tell my customers, some listen and some have a closet full of Jump Break Cues and still can't make a ball on the break. But there is certainly a bright sunny spot in all that, my wallet is much thicker!!!!!!:grin:
 
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i'll be honest, when i was younger, i was trying out almost every new Jumpbreak cue to find the MAGIC one, that gives me a good consistent break everytime.

I went from a Viking playing cue, to a OMEN! omg wish i still had it lol, to a action jb, to a action playing cue with a phenolic tip, to a few I've forgotten about. Finally in 07, I needed a new jb cue, and decided to get a new jb, since i needed one after selling all of my stuff. So I bought a J&J from billiards warehouse.

I will say, this that JnJ that I bought is probably the best breakcue I've bought. seriously the weight of it and balance is perfect for me and I can crush the rack and squat the rock.

For me it was just finding something I felt comfy with.
 
As far as tips go.... I've reverted back to a hard leather tip (SuperPro). I'm currently using a Hunter Classic J/B cue. I recently sold my XBreaker to offset the cost.

The thing that makes any cue break well is the person using the cue. As far as equipment specs though I believe the following (FOR ME):

1. Lighter cue. This increases cue speed.

2. Conical taper on the shaft. This gives a STIFF hit.

3. Tip for whitey control. Now I've gone back to hard leather leather for more CB control. I've used phenolic. Of the nonleather tips, the XBreaker tip was great.

4. Tip shape. A little bit flatter works well.

5. Joint. After I killed a joss (see below) I like the idea of a 3/8 10 or similar verus 5/16 14.

So ultimately what does this translate to. Maybe just have a break shaft built to use on your current cue. The cost would be kept down.

Here is my history on Break cues.

1. No name cue purchased in a pawn shop. Snapped the shaft during a break. That really hurt.....

2. Earl Strickland Cuetec J/B Cue (SOLD)

3. Joss cue butt with Hunter Classic break shaft/phenolic tip. Broke the butt behind the joint during a tournament. :mad: :mad: :mad: That also hurt and was painful. After this I modified my break technique.

4. Bunjee Blaster J/B cue. SOLD after I purchased an XBreaker.

5. Second Generation XBreaker J/B cue. SOLD to offset cost of Hunter Classic J/B.

6. Hunter Classic J/B cue.

While I haven't used any of the following and if it hasn't been mentioned. I would definitely look at a Stinger, Lightning Bolt, Gulyassey, and last but not least a Billiard Warehouse J/B. This last one's price seems reasonable and you get 2 shafts.

Ultimately though it comes down to technique versus equipment.

Just wanted to add to the confusion.......
 
I have a BK2 with both leather and phenolic tipped shafts. Hands down the best setup if you can reasonably afford it.

The advantage (or curse) is I spend absolutely no time questioning the equipment and all my time questioning my skills. :D
 
I broke in an 8-ball tournament this past weekend, made 5 balls on the break (including the 8 ball) just using my Schon pictured in my avatar with a 13mm shaft and moori medium tip. Just hit the balls square with a good stroke and you are good.
 
I am very happy with my Mezz PB I. It gives you more power than Pred BK but less CB control. I heard some good stuff about JJ Break cue. It also depends if you wanted a break cue only or B/J cue combo.
 
mooseman said:
That's the one I was talking about.......
Click to expand...

Must have missed your post mooseman. Yes that thing definatly hits the balls hard. I was impressed when I got it and tried it out.
 
Ice Breaker tip

manwon said:
Trust me on this, do not buy another cue, change the one you are currently using. I see this day in and day out on this forum and with customers walking into my retail store to buy the latest jump / break innovation!!!!!

Well, I am going to share a secret with you!!!!! THERE IS NO SECRET IT IS ALL A MIND GAME THAT PEOPLE PLAY WITH THEMSELVES!!!!!!!:yeah: :yeah: :yeah: Now please don't be upset by this post, it is not directed at you and I mean you know disrespect, I am actually trying to save you some money.:smile:

If your current break cue worked well for you at one time there is nothing wrong with the cue, you have changed something you were doing, most break cues will do the job if they are used correctly. Some need to be modified for a persons stroke or their individual feel. To modify these cues is much cheaper than a new cue and in many cases it will make them more user friendly for you personally.

1) Adjust the cues weight, try it both lighter and heavier than it currently is. By changing the cues weight in either direction by at least one oz, you will also move the balance point of the cue slightly forward or backward. This will change the entire feel of the cue much more than you think, and this may alone solve your problem.

2) Change the cues tip, there are many different types of tips for breaking cue to chose from. If you currently have a phenolic ferrule or tip try a leather hard tip. To go from phenolic to leather take the roundness off the Phenolic and face it flat and glue a leather tip directly to the Phenolic surface. If you find that you have better control with this set-up you are now good to go. If you currently have a leather tip, first have the leather tip removed and a Phenolic tip installed. If you like it and can control the ball well with it, you can always move up to Phenolic Ferrule when the tip wears out.

I think most people over look the changes above when they are not satisfied with their current break cue. In the end like I also said above in most cases the problem is with a persons technique, or stroke. Cues are nothing magic they are just tools that can only perform as well as the hands that use it are skilled.
Click to expand...

The fact that you put your integrity ahead of sales promotion in your store distinguishes you from the business norm.

Ads for the Icebreaker break tip insinuate that it offers the hardness of phenolic & the control of leather. I always wonder when I am offered the proposition that I can have my cake & eat it too.

Your clarification would be reassuring.
 
mongoose- said:
Must have missed your post mooseman. Yes that thing definatly hits the balls hard. I was impressed when I got it and tried it out.
Click to expand...

Not a problem.... If I was in the market now I would seriously consider purchasing the Billiard Warehouse one. Hopefully I now have my final J/B cue with the Hunter Classic. The great thing is it works great as a player as well............

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=122976
 
Predator BK2 is the best break cue I've ever used. Predator Air Jump Cue is the best jump cue I've even shot with. These cues aren't cheap, but they're damn good.
 
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