Did you do anything to the finish of the woodwork on the table? Is it original? Was it resorted previously? It looks in great shape.
Did you do anything to the finish of the woodwork on the table? Is it original? Was it resorted previously? It looks in great shape.
Hey Mark, My Centennial is playing great. When are you coming back to give me a lesson and help me break it in. Mark did my centennial and it is sensational, we just need more play! If I restructure my office at work, I will have you do the same for my Non Paraliel Novelty! I will only let Mark work on my tables and worth every penny!
all my best, Phil
As far as I know, all Klings came with the u-shaped open wooden chutes, although they came with either the Chicago or New York box at the end. I have one of each on my Klings.
I've had two Anniversarys oversized 8-footers, one Arcade and now have a Kling. See links below.
The Kling was a damaged 10' Snooker table we converted to a 9' drop-pocket 6-legged Kling. We also added up-bolts to tighten the rails and avoid the classic Brunswick stripped edge-bolt problem although we still insert the bolts and tighten them with the Brunswick bolt-head wrench.
I have also acquired a 10' Hudson Carom. I'm not sure if I am going to leave it a Carom table, make it a 10' pocket or a 9' pocket table. Probably leave it a Carom table.
http://www.carlopool.com/Kling.htm
http://www.carlopool.com/KlingProject.htm
This table is a ball return......crazy how the set up on the ball return is...lighting fast....wish I would've taken some pics of it..
Arthur Ball does some amazing work. I had him restore a few Anniversarys and he just finished up a Centennial for me. I've also seen him fix an especially beat up Rochester table. It looks like he did a great job on your Kling.
I've had two Anniversarys oversized 8-footers, one Arcade and now have a Kling. See links below.
The Kling was a damaged 10' Snooker table we converted to a 9' drop-pocket 6-legged Kling. We also added up-bolts to tighten the rails and avoid the classic Brunswick stripped edge-bolt problem although we still insert the bolts and tighten them with the Brunswick bolt-head wrench.
I have also acquired a 10' Hudson Carom. I'm not sure if I am going to leave it a Carom table, make it a 10' pocket or a 9' pocket table. Probably leave it a Carom table.
http://www.carlopool.com/Kling.htm
http://www.carlopool.com/KlingProject.htm
Complete table set-up....Blocked the slates....New sub-rails....Brunswick Super Speed Cushions......Simonis 860 Dark Green Cloth....Rails came out perfectly straight....THE TABLE PLAYS AS GOOD AS ANY GC I HAVE DONE... BEAUTIFUL 100 YEAR OLD ANTIQUE.....THANK YOU JOHN PALMER (OTLB) FOR THE REFERRAL OF THIS JOB.
I'll add my nice job comment in with the others. One question: is that
the famous Circassian walnut veneer on the table?
For those who may care - there was an option on ball returns, I don't know
if it was available on all models, the only one I ever saw was on one of
George Asby's Klings. The balls collected in a storage area located
near the center of the frame. There was a lever just above the ball box
that released them into the box.
As George explained it - it was aimed at Straight Pool players. Didn't
want them to have to put up with the sound of balls rolling down the return
and popping into the box while they were running the rack.
So you released them all at the end of the rack.
Them was the days.
Dale