Brunswick TruBalance

Easonscues

Easonscues.com
Silver Member
Hi all.
The thread in W/FS got me thinking.I have 2 Brunswick TruBalance ,this is what is on the butt of each cue(looks to be a gold coler but faded alot).You can see it some in the pics.I'd like to what yall can tell me about them and my sale them,if not I know I'll convert them later.As everyone knows im new to cue building but want to learn as much as I can.Thanks up frount for all the info yall can give. Jeff
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Jeff,
In general the Brunswick house cues made in the 60s and later without veneers have little to no collector value. I can see that these say Brunswick on the butt, but can't make out anything else. Going with your assessment that these are TruBalance cues, their value would be $50 or less each, making them good materials to practice your cue making venture. They should be nice and stable for a good sneaky. :)
 
Mr Hoppe said:
Jeff,
In general the Brunswick house cues made in the 60s and later without veneers have little to no collector value. I can see that these say Brunswick on the butt, but can't make out anything else. Going with your assessment that these are TruBalance cues, their value would be $50 or less each, making them good materials to practice your cue making venture. They should be nice and stable for a good sneaky. :)

I also agree with Mr. Hoppe, the cues are from the 1960's or later and they would make great conversion cues.
 
I had 6 or so 60-70 year old Brunswick Tru-Balance cues converted a while back. They came out real nice. Problem with the Tru Balance cues though is they are very thin above the points where the joint should be. Unless you want a cue with a .800 joint size and uneven points, you have to push them up and add a butt piece.

Martin



hawk4863 said:
Hi all.
The thread in W/FS got me thinking.I have 2 Brunswick TruBalance ,this is what is on the butt of each cue(looks to be a gold coler but faded alot).You can see it some in the pics.I'd like to what yall can tell me about them and my sale them,if not I know I'll convert them later.As everyone knows im new to cue building but want to learn as much as I can.Thanks up frount for all the info yall can give. Jeff
IM000021.jpg

IM000020.jpg

IM000024.jpg

IM000023.jpg

IM000022.jpg
 
Thanks all for your input. These will be converted sometime next year. I got luchy on these 2 ,they are over sized a bit ,where the joint cut would be is at .854 now so as long as I dont screw it up I should end up with about .840 without much problem.Leave it to me being new and I will mess it up,lol.Good thing they were free to me ,lol. Jeff
 
hawk4863 said:
Thanks all for your input. These will be converted sometime next year. I got luchy on these 2 ,they are over sized a bit ,where the joint cut would be is at .854 now so as long as I dont screw it up I should end up with about .840 without much problem.Leave it to me being new and I will mess it up,lol.Good thing they were free to me ,lol. Jeff

I can't tell from the pictures but are these points sharp at both ends? If so, I have a buddy who used to have a couple hundred of these. I don't know how many he has left at present. He's just hanging on to them waiting for a rainy day. I used to make trappers out of them but then he decided not to turn any more of them loose.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I can't tell from the pictures but are these points sharp at both ends? If so, I have a buddy who used to have a couple hundred of these. I don't know how many he has left at present. He's just hanging on to them waiting for a rainy day. I used to make trappers out of them but then he decided not to turn any more of them loose.

Dick

Hi Dick,
the points are only sharp on the top of the points. At the bottom is about a 1/8" flat spot on all fo them. Hope when I go to the pool hall again he'll have more of these for me.
 
Should make a nice conversion for you. I suggest getting all the donor cues you can get your hands on for practicing your building. These appear to be a decent foundation :)
 
hawk4863 said:
Thanks all for your input. These will be converted sometime next year. I got luchy on these 2 ,they are over sized a bit ,where the joint cut would be is at .854 now so as long as I dont screw it up I should end up with about .840 without much problem.Leave it to me being new and I will mess it up,lol.Good thing they were free to me ,lol. Jeff

That is a good size, however, anyone doing the conversion could work with less. If you had to cut within three inches of the cues points to attain a diameter that you need, you can still extend out the distance in front of the points by boring a 5/8 diameter hole about 1 inch into the forearm and installing a tenon to put the collar and pin into.

If done correctly this is a fix that is undetectable and stronger than before. Keep this in mind in the future, you may need to use it.
 
If the points are off, you're out of luck at .854. There's no room left to correct them at that size. I realize that it doen't matter to many, but if possible, I prefer to have points line up within an eigth of an inch. The Tru-Balance cues I had were sharp pointed on both ends. Best of luck with the cues, you'll be hands-on and bound to learn something...and for a hobbyist like me, that is where the fun is at.

Martin


hawk4863 said:
Thanks all for your input. These will be converted sometime next year. I got luchy on these 2 ,they are over sized a bit ,where the joint cut would be is at .854 now so as long as I dont screw it up I should end up with about .840 without much problem.Leave it to me being new and I will mess it up,lol.Good thing they were free to me ,lol. Jeff
 
hawk4863 said:
Thanks all for your input. These will be converted sometime next year. I got luchy on these 2 ,they are over sized a bit ,where the joint cut would be is at .854 now so as long as I dont screw it up I should end up with about .840 without much problem.Leave it to me being new and I will mess it up,lol.Good thing they were free to me ,lol. Jeff
I'd cut the bottom and add 3-4 inches.
 
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