Buffing finish on cue?

patrickjuhlin

patrickjuhlin

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Silver Member
I just finished putting my first clear coat finish on one of my first cues. I used super glues for the finish because it has seemed to work well in the past when using it to finish the joint end of shafts I've completed.

The problem I am running into is that I can get it glossy to a mirror finish by using Micro Mesh but there are some streaks on the cue that did not get completely buffed out to a gloss. I assume it is because I did not do my initial rough sanding enough were it perfectly leveled out the finish. I remember inspecting the finish before my final sanding to make sure I sanded out all of the high and low spots but still ended up with some low gloss streaks.

I have seen that some cue makers use a buffing wheel and possibly a compound to buff a cue to a high gloss.
What buffing wheel attachment should I buy and what compound should I use? Would this even work on a super glue finish?

Also if anyone has any suggestions on other finishes I could use other than Super Glue I would greatly appreciate that. I don't currently have the resources to buy a UV system although I would love to own one someday. I am limited to simpler methods and have not yet tried something like System Three Mirror Coat and wonder if that is a finish that is easily applied and does not get yellow over time?

Thanks in advance,
Pat J
 
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Are you using a buffing compound after sanding down with the Micro Mesh? If not just get some Cue Buff or other buffing compound and you will be fine. You don't really need a buffing wheel. Just your lathe, buffing compound and some napkins.
 
cueman said:
Are you using a buffing compound after sanding down with the Micro Mesh? If not just get some Cue Buff or other buffing compound and you will be fine. You don't really need a buffing wheel. Just your lathe, buffing compound and some napkins.
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And while your ordering Cue Buff from Chris, order his Cue Cote epoxy. It works pretty good. I currently use Cyno (Super Glue) and then sand up to 1500 grit, then start to use Cue components system 5 buffing compounds with just car polishing towels and get great results.
Dave
 
cueman said:
and some napkins.
Click to expand...

Just a tip for everyone in case you haven't tried them yet. I've found the Kleenex brand "Viva" papertowels to be the complete nuts for polishing. I've tried all papertowels, wedding napkins, etc. They come in the handy pick a size roll too where you can pull off 1/4 of a sheet instead of using a whole sheet. They are almost old t-shirt material texture & feeling. Much much better than the finest wedding napkins or Bounty towels. Try a roll...you'll thank me & it'll make your work a little easier.:wink:
 
patrickjuhlin said:
I just finished putting my first clear coat finish on one of my first cues. I used super glues for the finish because it has seemed to work well in the past when using it to finish the joint end of shafts I've completed.

The problem I am running into is that I can get it glossy to a mirror finish by using Micro Mesh but there are some streaks on the cue that did not get completely buffed out to a gloss. I assume it is because I did not do my initial rough sanding enough were it perfectly leveled out the finish. I remember inspecting the finish before my final sanding to make sure I sanded out all of the high and low spots but still ended up with some low gloss streaks.

I have seen that some cue makers use a buffing wheel and possibly a compound to buff a cue to a high gloss.
What buffing wheel attachment should I buy and what compound should I use? Would this even work on a super glue finish?

Also if anyone has any suggestions on other finishes I could use other than Super Glue I would greatly appreciate that. I don't currently have the resources to buy a UV system although I would love to own one someday. I am limited to simpler methods and have not yet tried something like System Three Mirror Coat and wonder if that is a finish that is easily applied and does not get yellow over time?

Thanks in advance,
Pat J
Click to expand...
I don't want to sound like a broken record with the safety stuff, "BUT". The sanding glue dust can knock you for a loop. Tim Scruggs told me he had a customer in the shop when they were sanding super glue end up in the hospital from breathing it. Be careful with that stuff.
 
Thanks for all the help, I picked up some polishing compounds today from my local Automotive paint store and am going to give ti a shot right now. I will try and post pics of the before and after results.
Frankly I didn't even know to use polishing compounds before posting this thread. I really appreciate the time saved by all the input.
Thanks,
Pat J
 
It worked perfectly, no streaks at all and the cue is glossy as can be. I am amazed. It wasn't that hard to buff on the lathe either. :)
 
masonh said:
you can polish and buff on a lathe but with a wheel the finish will be better.
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dont know what others are using
but, here's my setup
i use a speed reducer on router or else it would probably burn thru the finish in a heartbeat :eek:

1/4" shank x 3/8" arbor
the center hole is a little big, so it was a pain trying to get buff wheel centered on arbor
002-36.jpg
 
There are many different polishing compounds. Can someone specify more on what kind of compound? Please reply or pm, thanks for the help.
 
tlayne said:
There are many different polishing compounds. Can someone specify more on what kind of compound? Please reply or pm, thanks for the help.
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Much depends on the finish being used. Certain finishes will only rub out with a particular type of compound and some will only easily rub out in a certain window of time, meaning, starting to early and the finish is to soft, wait to long and the finish is to hard to rub out.

There is no part of cue building harder than putting on a great finish. It's not just the particular finish being used but the makers technique can make all of the difference in the world. There probably are better finishes out there than what I use but changing to another is so time intense trying all the different combinations of timing and materials to get the best look. Once you are happy with the finish it is hard to undertake a change. As far as compounds I use 3-M Perfect-It 3000 series of compounds. There are 3 grits that are used one after the other and special wheels to be used with each grit to get the maximum affect. They are not cheap, especially the final, blue Ultra-Fina compound and pad which can run 100.00 by themselves.

Dick
 
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tlayne said:
There are many different polishing compounds. Can someone specify more on what kind of compound? Please reply or pm, thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
I have plainly stated before I am very biased, because I sell cuemaking supplies. But I think the Cue Buff I sell is one of the best single step formulas out there. I have seen some multi grit formulas that did just a little better, but for a one step process it is hard to beat.
 
> I wondered how long it would be before someone posted pics of a router/drill or some little motor with a buffing wheel they mounted on their lathe. It seems like there would be more potential for disaster buffing the cues on a standalone buffer (dropping it) than spinning between centers. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
> I wondered how long it would be before someone posted pics of a router/drill or some little motor with a buffing wheel they mounted on their lathe. It seems like there would be more potential for disaster buffing the cues on a standalone buffer (dropping it) than spinning between centers. Tommy D.
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Donald Bludworth once told me he was making one for his shop that ran on CNC to buff the cue.
 
here's what i use first i water sand out to 3600 spin the cue at 900 rpm between centers then i use a Leveling compond on a foam componding pad on my buffer and buff at 1800 rpm it takes about 1 minute and the buffing is done then i hand rub on a 3M imperial hand glaze wipe it off done!! i always use a buffer i don't like to spin the cue and use a paper towel i just don't get the same Results as i do with a buffer.
 
Tommy-D said:
> I wondered how long it would be before someone posted pics of a router/drill or some little motor with a buffing wheel they mounted on their lathe. It seems like there would be more potential for disaster buffing the cues on a standalone buffer (dropping it) than spinning between centers. Tommy D.
Click to expand...
i thought about mounting to toolpost also, breifly
i do my finish sanding on my cue companion, rather than my main lathe
with cue spinning, i can control the router with both hands
havent dropped it YET :eek:
 
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