burn marks on felt
- Thread starter billf59
- Start date
The cloth is 70% wool and 30% nylon to give it speed, you can Dye wool but not nylon. So when you break down at the cue ball you get friction or heat burn from the cue ball sliding then the cue hits the cloth and does the same thing as the ferulle slides on the cloth it also generates heat that remove the dye from the nylon. Hence this the most common way to get the burn marks in cloth.
If you search www.youtube.com and I think Bob jewett posted the video here also. With slowmotion high speed cameras and thermal imaging you can so the heat signature on the balls and cloth as clear as day.
Simmonis has new worsted wool cloth out that has a higher wool count and redesigned it to have the nylon lower in the weave for more wool contact on the playing field. The cloth is do out in a few months a few paople have been sent samples of it. I saw it for the first time last month looks like 860 but has a better feel.
Hope this helps.
Craig
If you search www.youtube.com and I think Bob jewett posted the video here also. With slowmotion high speed cameras and thermal imaging you can so the heat signature on the balls and cloth as clear as day.
Simmonis has new worsted wool cloth out that has a higher wool count and redesigned it to have the nylon lower in the weave for more wool contact on the playing field. The cloth is do out in a few months a few paople have been sent samples of it. I saw it for the first time last month looks like 860 but has a better feel.
Hope this helps.
Craig
billf59 said:
Breaking off a piece of cloth helps but you won't get completely away from friction marks.
Check your ball set.
A "clean" set of Aramith top shelf resin balls will help further reduce the marking.
If you have a grungy set of polyester balls nothing will help.
Occasionally use a damp (not wet) cloth to wipe down the table to eliminate chalk marks.
This also helps hide some of the friction marks.
I've had pretty good success with QuickClean.
billf59 said:
First off, what type of balls are using? Sounds like you are not using newer Aramith balls or you are using the lower price ones if they are Aramith.
When you break the Cue Ball generates around 220 degrees at the surface of the cloth when the cue ball is contacted by the cue stick. If you are not using a Aramith cue ball your problems will only get worst and very quickly. Aramith cue balls and numbered balls are made from a Phenolic material that is specially designed to reduce the white marks by reducing friction at the cloths surface.
Another way to make your cloth wear more evenly, is to change which end your table you break from every month depending upon how often you use your table. This will stop all the wear from breaking and from the rack being in only one place, and it will spread it out more evenly over the entire table.
Hope this helps!!
As mentioned before there's heat built up when you shoot. Heat is caused by friction. Reduce friction = reduced heat. Moral of the story - Clean the balls and table regularly. Chalk is abrasive and scratches the balls. Scratches add friction. Balls and cloth should be In New Condition when you play.
My cloth is years old and still looks better than most pool hall tables used for a week.
My cloth is years old and still looks better than most pool hall tables used for a week.
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billf59 said:
Quit playing on your table, and go to the pool room. That's the only way. The Simonis 860 on my GCIV has plenty of battle scars, but it plays GREAT. I Take pride in the fact that my table gets plenty of play, and it shows. Afterall, it's a fine piece of sporting equipment which begs to be used, not a piece of furniture.