Burn Marks
- Thread starter Jonbouy
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This exists in pretty much every single table out there. I think the Simonis HR cloth is more resistant to this than others. How can you get them off, it's wear in the cloth.
I just had Siminos 860 put on my table. After about a week I had the burn marks and dirt marks from players hands. I always noticed these marks on the tables at at the pool hall in the past but pretty much ignored them because they never seem to affect play. Well now it's my table and their driving me crazy. I could have everyone break off a little pad and ask players to wash their hand after every smoke break and then decided to get over it. My table is not a show piece and I would prefer to focus more on playing than showing. Don't get me wrong I want a clean table but I'm not going to sweat every little mark. Hopefully I wear the cloth out in 5 years from lots of playing time and then pop $400 for new cloth installed.
I figured about as much and thank you for the answer.
My buddy in the States has the same problem with Simonis 860. I agree with you but wish the table could look like new every day. I'll just concentrate on my shot making. Thanks for your thoughts.
Several pool halls in this area provide scraps of cloth as break pads. I generally don't bother to use them but I usually play 14.1 or one pocket. I have had one opponent get out his break cue for 14.1 but then he didn't use it.
In the old Grand Touring Rooms....they didn't allow rotation and 8-ball games in their main
section.....because of the brutal break lines.
I have suggested that people with home tables play straight pool on them....
...and one pocket.....cloth will be good for years.
9-ball and 8-ball break. Along with a few tatters scattered around. Simonis 860 cloth. Past time to replace but too broke. Hope to replace it this winter.
Never tried to clean it up.
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9-ball and 8-ball break. Along with a few tatters scattered around. Simonis 860 cloth. Past time to replace but too broke. Hope to replace it this winter.
Never tried to clean it up.
Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums
Those are holes, not burn marks (but there are plenty of those as well). Looks like you've miscued about 1 billion times on the break! Are you bending your shaft, like Mike Sigel? I'm asking, because it's rare to see so many holes in the cloth near the breaking area. Usually there is only a couple on the specific spot the ball is placed, not a wide area around, like this.
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Cloth gets worn out fast from breaking in 9/10 ball. Not only do you get the lines, but usually holes are formed on the exact spot the ball is laying, not like the one pictured before. It's also common for the spot to become a hole in the cloth. Then there is the problem with the lines. It's not only a visual thing, but tons of chalk gets deposited, ruining a large section of the cloth, and getting on to the balls.
That being said, if 10/9 ball is your game, of course you should play it at home. A pool table is not a showpiece (to me at least) but an item that is there to be used and enjoyed. If I had to play only 1 pocket, I'd have to quit the game. Playing defensive players and bunting the balls for 1 hour + is just brutal. It's like carp fishing. Some people are not cut out for sitting by the lake waiting for 3 straight days. Straight pool is usually quite gentle on the cloth, but there are circumstances where people are practising break shots and forming lines and burn marks. It's to be expected.
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Here's a one pocket exercise that was used at the DCC ...you get five breaks...add total.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29Syxy3apRU
The big white spot is a burn. The lines are burns. Not a lot of miscues although I'm sure there have been some.
I have several of those frayed spots but my cloth is also over 10 years old. I don't remember any specific action causing them. I occasionally wipe it with a damp cloth, occasionally vacuum it and frequently brush it.
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Sorry to agree with the majority, but the burns are permanent. There was an infrared video posted a while ago showing the temperatures generated on a hard shot but unfortunately I can't recall where; perhaps Dr. Dave could help? Either way, the wool is melted and there is no way back from that.
A break cloth, as others have mentioned, is your best bet to minimize the mark near the headstring. Just playing a stroke drill for power draw (one ball only, no collisions) can do that to brand new cloth. It only takes one shot with a lot of friction to leave a mark corner to corner.
Yes. If you really want to avoid burns on the breaking spot, a breaking cloth is the way to go. You can use it for jumps too.
9-ball and 8-ball break. Along with a few tatters scattered around. Simonis 860 cloth. Past time to replace but too broke. Hope to replace it this winter.
Never tried to clean it up.
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The nicks in the cloth are from mis-cueing while breaking which is why most of them are at the head end of the table. The dominate break/burn marks are more as a result of breaking to low on the cue ball, driving it harder into the cloth before it starts it's forward travel, which causes the cue ball to bounce half way to the rack, and causes a lot of breaks to jump off the table. All you have to do is look at where the break spot is, then look at the gap in the cloth between that spot and where the cue ball starts leaving a wear line to the rack, that space/gap is becausenthe cue ball is in the air over that distance. Level out your stroke more and you'll have less burn marks.
I've been on a haiku kick recently. Don't ask me why..
Let's shoot some stick, Bob
I'll get my break cue for straights
Jewett ups the bet.
The marks on the cloth tell the real story, and it kills me.
I'm workin on that.
I got em... I dont worry about them. It's gonna happen, especially if you have a favorite break spot.
Break of a piece of old cloth though to not wear in the break spot though. It will wear much faster there.
Break of a piece of old cloth though to not wear in the break spot though. It will wear much faster there.