Buying and refinishing a GC II

R

resiak

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So I am planning to buy a GC II. The wood is in rough shape and will need to be stripped, dings filled and painted. The price of the table includes installation, simonis 860, and delivery (I will be picking up the wood to refinish prior).

A few questions...

Is $1900 a fair price or would I be over paying? I have researched sold prices and the prices are all over the place. I saw one guy selling them for like $800 but that is far away and doesn't include cloth or installation. Then I saw one sell on eBay, completely restored, with simonis 860 for $4800.

Does anyone know the original color codes for the GC II?

What would be the best paint to use?

Thank you!
Dan

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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That's to high if you have to refinish the Tae yourself, and GC2s' had a stained finish, not painted.
 
realkingcobra said:
That's to high if you have to refinish the Tae yourself, and GC2s' had a stained finish, not painted.
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Are you sure Glen? My table is a GCII I believe, its does not have the figure 8 rail hold downs and it does have the segmented blind attachment extrusions. Its has the plastic covers over the ball return, Brunstone, adjustable feet, and had Monarch Super Speeds.Everything I have researched about the early GCs points mine to being a GCII, it was a very, very slightly used 2 owner table when I bought it 4 years ago. The owner who I bought it from knew the original purchaser personally that had bought the table new from a Brunswick dealer. My table was originally white before I stained it.
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The only real difference between a 1 & 2, and a dead giveaway to a 2 is that all the changes that came out in the 2, was first changed in the 1's. So, the one major difference is that the 2 was easily identified by the painted, Rosewood finished skirts, ball box, and leg pedestals, but was only in production from 74'-76', at which time it was changed to the GC3, and more changes were made, but the first GC3s' came out with the GC2 pocket mounting hardware, in order to use up the remaining GC2 rail stock, after which the casting mounts were changed over to the threaded insert in the ends of the rails. So, actually your Gold Crown is really a newer version of the Gold Crown 1, since the skirts were painted white to begin with.
 
realkingcobra said:
The only real difference between a 1 & 2, and a dead giveaway to a 2 is that all the changes that came out in the 2, was first changed in the 1's. So, the one major difference is that the 2 was easily identified by the painted, Rosewood finished skirts, ball box, and leg pedestals, but was only in production from 74'-76', at which time it was changed to the GC3, and more changes were made, but the first GC3s' came out with the GC2 pocket mounting hardware, in order to use up the remaining GC2 rail stock, after which the casting mounts were changed over to the threaded insert in the ends of the rails. So, actually your Gold Crown is really a newer version of the Gold Crown 1, since the skirts were painted white to begin with.
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OK, I understand now, thank you Glen. My rail blinds are maple I believe, that is what that local lumber yard/cabinet shop told me. What I can tell you about the blinds is that they are definitely a hardwood, it was very tough to get the stain to actually soak in to the wood and darken it. I ended up up having to use a courser sandpaper on the blinds, it was the only way to get them to take stain. The ends of the pedestals and the ball box were both poplar and stained very, very easy. I think the center of the pedestal is oak plywood, not sure but I re-painted those. The weird thing was when I was sanding the blinds I noticed it had almost a green tint to it that you did not notice when the table was assembled.
 
fastone371 said:
OK, I understand now, thank you Glen. My rail blinds are maple I believe, that is what that local lumber yard/cabinet shop told me. What I can tell you about the blinds is that they are definitely a hardwood, it was very tough to get the stain to actually soak in to the wood and darken it. I ended up up having to use a courser sandpaper on the blinds, it was the only way to get them to take stain. The ends of the pedestals and the ball box were both poplar and stained very, very easy. I think the center of the pedestal is oak plywood, not sure but I re-painted those. The weird thing was when I was sanding the blinds I noticed it had almost a green tint to it that you did not notice when the table was assembled.
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That's why Brunswick used a kind of paint on Rosewood stain in order bring out that Rosewood kind of stained look, but they were never stained to begin with, none of them are, including the GC3's, 4's, & 5's.
 
fastone371 said:
Are you sure Glen? My table is a GCII I believe, its does not have the figure 8 rail hold downs and it does have the segmented blind attachment extrusions. Its has the plastic covers over the ball return, Brunstone, adjustable feet, and had Monarch Super Speeds.Everything I have researched about the early GCs points mine to being a GCII, it was a very, very slightly used 2 owner table when I bought it 4 years ago. The owner who I bought it from knew the original purchaser personally that had bought the table new from a Brunswick dealer. My table was originally white before I stained it.
picture.php
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It appears Glen is correct here. My table can be described much like yours; one original owner and recovered just one time before my purchase about two years ago. Beautifully original in all respects, the table suggests a history of light usage. The aprons are blue with the white plastic skirting perfectly intact. I did nothing but repaint the aprons, cleaned every piece, wired brushed every fastener, and put it in play. Simonis 760 with original rubber, it plays much to my satisfaction. This is the second GC I have owned, the first being an earlier build. Like you, I've considered my present table a GCII but it seems now to be a late GCI. I did find a GC comparison chart that confirms Glen's assertions.
 
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rikdee said:
It appears Glen is correct here. My table can be described much like yours; one original owner and recovered just one time before my purchase about two years ago. Beautifully original in all respects, the table suggests a history of light usage. The aprons are blue with the white plastic skirting perfectly intact. I did nothing but repaint the aprons, cleaned every piece, wired brushed every fastener, and put it in play. Simonis 760 with original rubber, it plays much to my satisfaction. This is the second GC I have owned, the first being an earlier build. Like you, I've considered my present table a GCII but it seems now to be a late GCI. I did find a GC comparison chart that confirms Glen's assertions.
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you don't still have anything with the original Blue do you? I would like to get a paint match of the original color.
 
I seem to remember a post from years ago, that matched the color schemes of the GCI with modern paint colors.
 
xianmacx said:
you don't still have anything with the original Blue do you? I would like to get a paint match of the original color.
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From what I've recently read, Sherwin Williams Loch Blue is a near perfect match to the original GC blue. Additionally, SW 7103 - Whitetail - is the match for the GC white. Unfortunately, I didn't have this information when I repainted the blue aprons. Instead I got a color match at Home Depot which is close but not quite to my liking. If I ever take the table apart, for recover or even rail recalibration, I will redo with the SW Loch Blue.
 
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rikdee said:
From what I've recently read, Sherwin Williams Loch Blue is a near perfect match to the original GC blue. Additionally, SW 7103 - Whitetail - is the match for the GC white. Unfortunately, I didn't have this information when I repainted the blue aprons. Instead I got a color match at Home Depot which is close but not quite to my liking. If I ever take the table apart, for recover or even rail recalibration, I will redo with the SW Loch Blue.
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Please let us know what your source is on the color match....

Where did you read that?
 
rikdee said:
From what I've recently read, Sherwin Williams Loch Blue is a near perfect match to the original GC blue. Additionally, SW 7103 - Whitetail - is the match for the GC white. Unfortunately, I didn't have this information when I repainted the blue aprons. Instead I got a color match at Home Depot which is close but not quite to my liking. If I ever take the table apart, for recover or even rail recalibration, I will redo with the SW Loch Blue.
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Yes, Ken Hash told me about those colors also.

I color matched the white and gold from the gold crown which can be found in another post of mine. They are as accurate as you can get. I just hoped for the same level of accuracy with the Blue. I'm sure Loch blue is close, I just wanted exact. :)

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=393287&highlight=capsule
post 14 has the white and 38 the gold
 
xianmacx said:
you don't still have anything with the original Blue do you? I would like to get a paint match of the original color.
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No, the aprons might have a dusting of over-spray on the reverse sides, but I have nothing still painted in the original blue.
 
Thank you for the info everyone. Unfortunately the table JC told me about is to far - so the hunt continues.

I came across this table for sale. Is it actually a GC or some sort of knock off?

Thanks!
 

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