Can we examine room/table size in a different way?

What is your objective in buying a table? Will it primarily be a practice table? Do you have hopes of becoming quite a good player (if you aren't already)? Or will it just be something on which to have fun occasionally with family or friends?

If the objective is to truly develop your game, and if most of your play outside the home is on 9-footers, then I'd buy the 9-footer and place it off-center in the room -- with cushion noses about 64" (or a bit less) to the wall on one side and 44" (or a bit more) to the wall on the other side.

That will give you space for all shots with a full-length cue on three sides of the table. That allows practicing all types of shots with a full cue. On the 4th side, you'd still be able to use a full-length cue for some of the shots, but would have to resort to a short stick for the others.
 
my 2 cents

I have two options for you that used for my own situation.

A: If your clearance is close knock out a 6-8" tall recesses around your room. you can gain 3-3.5 inches and can make a nice recessed shelf to put all your trinkets on.
you will still have to deal with the studs from time to time.

B. If you use a short cue, add lead weight to the back of it (lead tape works well) to give it the balance point of a full cue. (roughly 1-2" in front of the wrap)

Best of luck
 
Althair said:
Hello Players, Installers, Experts, etc.

I've recently moved into the home I plan to live in for the next twenty or thirty years and the designated "Pool Room" is a bit small in terms of width for a 9' table, or even an 8' table in some opinions. Length is not a problem. The room is 13' 2" Wide. Now I know the standard answers have been reviewed time and time again here, so I am not asking for 57 + 57 + 50 = 164" = 13' 8" without even allowing for any back-swing. CAN WE EXAMINE THE ISSUE FROM A DIFFERENT ANGLE?

1) Which would do greater harm to my game development: Practicing on an 8 foot table or having to play some shots at home with a slightly shorter quality cue?

2) How often does one really need to shoot a shot that is close to directly perpendicular to the side of the table with a level or near level cue?

3) One of my first instructors, who had been NY State Women's Champion many years ago (for whatever that is worth) taught me that when the object ball is snug to the cushion, you only want to stroke back an inch or two anyway, even on long shots. So, how often is there a reason to stroke back more than that, say 5" or so?

4) Members here appear to speak of playing some shots with a shorter cue as if they were being asked to walk the plank with a iron weight strapped to their ankle. How do these same members feel about owning an 8 foot table? Which is worse?

I am sincerely asking for help here. I have a room and I'm getting a table. So while I am at it, which would you suggest, less expensive table but new, or more expensive table but used and properly installed, re-felted, etc.--given the same budget? But back to the main issue, I am getting a table and always wanted a 9' but now discover that technically I only have enough width for a 7' which is absolutely out of the question. I am thinking I'd rather have the 9 footer I always wanted, get a few nice short cues, and try to learn not to leave my cue ball against the cushion! But would that be insane when an 8 footer would be much closer to the proper fit--and even then would still involve some use of shorter cues?

In life and in pool we strive for the ideal--but life involves compromises too. What do you think?
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To me , It all depends on what you are trying to get from the table.
There are lots of tournaments for 8 footers and seems like plenty of gambling is done on them. You can become a great player on them just like on a 9 foot .
Unless you want to join the mens tour or have a purpose for the 9 footer , I would think friends and others would have more fun at your house on the 8.
 
I would get the smaller table in your situation, but I probably would have kept looking at houses. My 9' Gold Crown is in my basement. One spot for it gave me plenty of room except one pole where it took the width available down to 14' 6". It would have likely almost never come into play but the math said it could if the cue ball was hanging deep in one corner and the object ball was in line with the adjacent corner.... and you wanted a full backstroke. I instead put it in a different spot where I have a completely clear 16 x 28.

I lived with a table in my last house with one small area that occasionally required a short cue...I hated it even though it rarely came onto play.

You know the trade-offs so you just have to do some sole searching about how you feel about it..... we aren't going to be playing on it, you are.

The second question is easy, get a good used table set up right. I paid $500 for a solid GC lll and another $500 for move, new 860, set up and new pocket liners. Its not a show piece but its all there and looks good enough and plays like new.
 
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In all seriousness I would get a Diamond Bar Box. Comfort and roominess is an important part of the playing experience.

Last thing I would do is cram too big of a table in too small of a space..
 
Althair said:
Hello Players, Installers, Experts, etc.

I've recently moved into the home I plan to live in for the next twenty or thirty years and the designated "Pool Room" is a bit small in terms of width for a 9' table, or even an 8' table in some opinions. Length is not a problem. The room is 13' 2" Wide. Now I know the standard answers have been reviewed time and time again here, so I am not asking for 57 + 57 + 50 = 164" = 13' 8" without even allowing for any back-swing. CAN WE EXAMINE THE ISSUE FROM A DIFFERENT ANGLE?

1) Which would do greater harm to my game development: Practicing on an 8 foot table or having to play some shots at home with a slightly shorter quality cue?

2) How often does one really need to shoot a shot that is close to directly perpendicular to the side of the table with a level or near level cue?

3) One of my first instructors, who had been NY State Women's Champion many years ago (for whatever that is worth) taught me that when the object ball is snug to the cushion, you only want to stroke back an inch or two anyway, even on long shots. So, how often is there a reason to stroke back more than that, say 5" or so?

4) Members here appear to speak of playing some shots with a shorter cue as if they were being asked to walk the plank with a iron weight strapped to their ankle. How do these same members feel about owning an 8 foot table? Which is worse?

I am sincerely asking for help here. I have a room and I'm getting a table. So while I am at it, which would you suggest, less expensive table but new, or more expensive table but used and properly installed, re-felted, etc.--given the same budget? But back to the main issue, I am getting a table and always wanted a 9' but now discover that technically I only have enough width for a 7' which is absolutely out of the question. I am thinking I'd rather have the 9 footer I always wanted, get a few nice short cues, and try to learn not to leave my cue ball against the cushion! But would that be insane when an 8 footer would be much closer to the proper fit--and even then would still involve some use of shorter cues?

In life and in pool we strive for the ideal--but life involves compromises too. What do you think?
Click to expand...

What you have to do, is decide what's more important to you, first being playing pool to its fullest extent with your friends, OR practicing and honing your skills to go out and put them to good use. The difference being, you can shove a pool table in a corner blocked by 2 walls and still practice to your hearts content, or listen to all your friends complain about not wanting to play on your table because there's to many short spots around it to enjoy playing.
 
realkingcobra said:
What you have to do, is decide what's more important to you, first being playing pool to its fullest extent with your friends, OR practicing and honing your skills to go out and put them to good use. The difference being, you can shove a pool table in a corner blocked by 2 walls and still practice to your hearts content, or listen to all your friends complain about not wanting to play on your table because there's to many short spots around it to enjoy playing.
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This is something to really consider. I have a 3-Cushion table. Guess how many friends and neighbors come over for a beer and a little 3Cushion?

That being said. Earlier someone posted a specific brand short cue. I've picked up some well made short cues at one of the "Pool Stores" You have a good choice of weight to pick from. The ones I've seen are funny shaped. Like the old coke bottle bats. Regular diameter butt then quickly down to the shaft.

What comes to my mind with short cues is they usually weigh about 4ounces.
 
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I have a table in a room that is a little on the short side.

I have a short 52" cue, but I follow a rule in golf about relief. When a ball is unshootable I allow the CB to be moved on the line it would have been shot so that it becomes shootable. Solves the problem and saves time compared to walking over and picking up the short cue.
 
Up to you

I personally would want a 7' or 9' table. No matter the table size you need enough room to move the cue to help you make the shot. I find running out of room for my cue stroke a real pain. I suggest you go to a pool room with a friend and have him hold a board up that is the same distance as your closest wall and you can bang into that with the butt of your cue and after awhile you can see how it effects your game.
 
3kushn said:
This is something to really consider. I have a 3-Cushion table. Guess how many friends and neighbors come over for a beer and a little 3Cushion?

That being said. Earlier someone posted a specific brand short cue. I've picked up some well made short cues at one of the "Pool Stores" You have a good choice of weight to pick from. The ones I've seen are funny shaped. Like the old coke bottle bats. Regular diameter butt then quickly down to the shaft.

What comes to my mind with short cues is they usually weigh about 4ounces.
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I got confused. Did you pick up a properly weighted short cue or not?

There are at least three suppliers of weighted and decent balance short cues. I was thinking of having one custom built, but I'm glad I didnt. I picked up a Balance Rite short cue (18 oz, about 50"), but I havent used this short cue once.

Freddie <~~~ but probably could have twice
 
I have a 9' table. On the side where the wall is close I have 66" from cushion to the wall. My cue never hits the wall but I would like to be able to back farther away from the table to look at it sometimes. If you can not move a wall to make more space I would definately go with a 7' table. I think the worst thing you can do is put a table in a room that is too small, not only will nobody else want to play there but I think you will probably grow tired of it too. One of my friends has a basement pole about 3' from one of his long rails, it is amazing how often that 4" dia. pole is always in the way.
 
It seems to me that you have three options. one, get a nine footer or and eight footer and hate it.
two, make the room larger and love it. Or three, concede to getting a seven footer and find a happy medium.
 
I'm with Frank on this (not surprising). As long as we're looking at it from a different angle, let's look at it this way - would you enjoy having a table at home that comes with even the occasional obstructed shot? Most will answer "no" to that question.
 
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