Can you straighten a warped shaft?.....Manwon can!

Yes it is an Un Warp thingy.
I have tied the tubing too tight on occasion and made the warp go the other direction. So then it would be the opposite warp jig.

I know a few people that use the term, Un thaw. If you Un thaw something, aren't you freezing it?


LOL!

Yup.

How about the people who say "hot water heater"?

Anyway, this whole thing is just generating more ideas. I feel confident the methods can be refined some and that there is more than one way to skin this cat.

The lightbulb idea mentioned above is interesting. Perhaps it could even specifically be a heat lamp. Mounting a lamp fixture above the un-warp jig could be quick work.

Some experimentation with a mounted thermometer could even lead to thermostatic control and some quantification of the method. Add a timer and you now have a certain amount of automation and safety. It could prevent overheating or forgetting about the thing and leaving it too long.


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shaft straightening

Manwon,
Are you heating both sides of the bend by rotating the shaft while heating, or only the side opposite to the bend or only the side facing the bend??? It seems to me that you would like both sides of the wood to be heated some. When you bend it, after heating, you will be stretching one side's woodcells and providing compression on the other side.

When people make rustic bentwood furniture rails, they place the wood totally in a steaming tube and after an appropriate time remove the moist heated wood and place it in a pre-made bending jig. They allow it to cool and dry some to set the curves. Then remove it and attach it to the furniture piece. Similar, huh!!!!!:cool:

Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues
 
Ok as promised this is the method I was taught to straighten a shaft, be prepared it's long post:

How to straighten a pool cue shaft”


First let me say all warped shafts can not be straightened, the following points of interest are things that may point to internal stress in the wood that has not been relieved, or methods of poor handling that can result in a shaft causing stress to wood objects. However, all or none of what I have listed below could have been the cause of a shaft warping. Shafts warp due to wood that has not been properly stress relieved. Now this internal stress can be natural which is normal for all wood once it is cut and when it is being processed. Or it can be man made by abuse or by improper handling / treatment of the wood by some one using one of the following methods.


1. Turned to finished size to fast. (Such as taking a 1 inch dowel and turning it to finished size in a afternoon)

2. Shafts that have excessive non-straight grain. (Sometimes this can be used to identify a problem and sometimes shafts like this will stay straight forever)

3. Shafts that have been exposed to unstable conditions such as, high temperatures or low temperatures. ( Leaving your cue in your automobile summer and winter can cause a shaft to warp, along with many other problems, but wood is wood and sometimes this will not have an effect concerning a shaft warping. However, it will cause expanding and contraction that will cause inlays to pop, materials to expand or to shrink which will cause many types of damage.)

4. Shafts that were exposed to excessive amounts of moisture for extended periods of time. (This is very easy to understand keep all items that are made from wood dry, moisture will cause swelling and as it dries shrinkage which in most cases will damage any pool cue.)


Things you will need to straighten a shaft:

1. Lead Pencil
2. Flat Surface
3. A single burner Electric Stove
4. A method to hang the shaft with the cues butt attached
5. A method or device that you can use to bend the shaft



The first step to making a warped shaft straight again is finding the highest point of the warp. Now keep this in mind, in some cases when a shaft warps the internal stress will cause it to bend at more than a single location, so you will have to fix one bend at a time. I have seen and fixed shafts that had multiple bends ( 3 or 4) and while this seems like a situation where a shaft can not be fixed that is not always the case, so the key is patients, this is something you will need a lot of LOL. The best way to find the high point is to roll the shaft on a flat level surface such as a pool table, but any flat surface will work. Now this is not the method I would use to check a shaft for straightness, I would recommend placing the shaft between centers on a lathe and spinning it, then using a dial indicator to determine how much movement there is. But most do not have a lathe so rolling the shaft on a flat surface is an alternate method that anyone can do to find the high point of the warp. Next mark the high point of the warp with a pencil so that you can find it before you make your first bend of the shaft ( The first bend should be done without heat so I call it a Cold Bend)

Once you have found the high point of the shaft and marked it you are ready to make your first bend. Hold the shaft flat to the surface you are bending it upon and lift up on the joint side of the shaft, holding the marked area flat to the table. Then roll the shaft and see if the marked high point is still the high point. In many cases it will move a little because what you thought was the high point may not have been, or there may have been more than a single area that warped. It may take a couple of bends until you get the shaft as straight as possible bending it cold, then hang the shaft with or without the butt attached for 24 to 48 hour’s.

After it has hung for one of the times listed above check the shaft for straightness and to see if any of the original warp may have returned. Either way it is time to roll the shaft and again find the high point and mark it with a pencil. Then heat up your single burner electric stove, when it is fully heated holding the shaft about 2 to 3 inches from the mark on both sides place the marked area above the coil of the electric single burner stove, and keep the shaft a good distance away from burner so that it does not mark the shaft. If you are too close you will know it because it will burn your hands, that is why you are holding it two to three inches on either side of the mark. When the wood and your hands start to get warm place the shaft on the flat surface and bend it again. Again this may take a couple of times but the shaft should straighten out for the most part at this time then hang it again for 24 to 48 hour’s. After that time has passed again check the shaft by rolling it on the same flat surface you have been using to check and see if the warp has returned.

If there has been any movement, again mark the high point and get out your Electric stove and heat the shaft as mentioned before, At this point after a few bends along with heating the shaft it should be straight, but to be on the safe side again hang it for a minimum of 24 hour’s. If the wood doesn’t move your good to go, if it moves at this point it is most likely the best it will ever get and to my knowledge there is nothing else that can be done to correct the problem.

I hope this helps


Manwon,
Nice post. There's hope for you yet . .
Thx for sharing some real useful knowledge
Canwin
 
cues

I have seen Craig's work and his shop in his pool room. Very impressive and he certainly knows what he is doing. Randy
 
Manwon,
Are you heating both sides of the bend by rotating the shaft while heating, or only the side opposite to the bend or only the side facing the bend??? It seems to me that you would like both sides of the wood to be heated some. When you bend it, after heating, you will be stretching one side's woodcells and providing compression on the other side.

When people make rustic bentwood furniture rails, they place the wood totally in a steaming tube and after an appropriate time remove the moist heated wood and place it in a pre-made bending jig. They allow it to cool and dry some to set the curves. Then remove it and attach it to the furniture piece. Similar, huh!!!!!:cool:

Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues



When I am straightening a shaft I only heat the high point of the bend, but my method is just that there is nothing wrong with adding to it or taking away from it. My only intent was to share what I have found, however, I would not recommend using moisture of any kind.
 
Steam is used for bending in lots of woodwork applications, ribs for boats, the furniture mentioned above, etc. It should be noted that in most steaming applications the wood used is GREEN not seasoned and the bends are rather extreme compared to taking a small kink out of a shaft.
Entirely different things.
 
Steam is used for bending in lots of woodwork applications, ribs for boats, the furniture mentioned above, etc. It should be noted that in most steaming applications the wood used is GREEN not seasoned and the bends are rather extreme compared to taking a small kink out of a shaft.
Entirely different things.



They are certainly entirely different things, in addition when you are bending wood using steam the bent wood is normally held in place by bolts, screws, nail or such. With any wood used to build pool cues moisture content is very important, which is not always the case with other types of wood working.
 
Once and for all, I do not advocate using steam or moisture to try and straighten a shaft. I know everyone is trying to add useful information to this thread, but please no more with adding moisture. If you find a method that works please start a thread about it, but I do not want anyone to be confused on the method used in this thread,

I have given everyone who cares all the information needed to straighten a shaft I hope this information helps.

Have a great day:smile:
 
Manwon

Craig,

I was NOT advocating using moisture in my question. It was never meant that way. I was trying to make the point of even heating rather than one sided, as you describe. The compression and elongational stress on each side might better be balanced with even heating, bending gently back to straight and then cooling and hanging for 48 hours.

I appreciate your efforts to help out everyone with sharing your method. Your technique obviously works well for you and you've taken the time to document it well. That's what we are here for.:cool:

Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues
 
"piece of surgical tubing." I like the heat lamp with thermostat idea and I might replace the tubing with a small turnbuckle. For the skeptical you might experiment on a half inch dowel rod before subjecting a shaft to these methods. You could warp it then straighten it out.
 
I had a shaft in my shop that had a big bend in it. I guess the humidity got to it, but it was 4 or 5 mm out. I happened to be surfing around on here and stumbled on this post. I have always hung shafts to straighten them, but it would not work on one this severe. I tried this method, and I couldn't believe it actually worked. the best part is that several days later it has not moved at all. I have heard of this way (or similar) before, but never really tried it. I am a believer. The shaft feels fine also, with no change in the play. Great original post here. Thanks
 
great info. i have to try this for my friends old shafts. I have many friends who have little warped shaft and they asked if i could help :)
 
I must say I was not a believer that a shaft can be straightened. I am now!! Just out of curiosity I sent Craig(Manwon) an old Joss shaft I had, that had a distinct warp to it, just to see what would happen. My expectations were very low.

The shaft arrived back today perfectly straight. And I do mean perfectly straight. It is straighter than the shaft I currently use on the cue I play with.

So if there are any non-believers out there, believe it! It can be done. I'm sure there are some for whatever reason can't be. Mine was certainly warped & almost flopped around on the table when rolled. Thanks Craig. I would have just trashed the shaft otherwise and I will have another on the way soon.....:thumbup:


Did it stay straight?
 
Maybe I missed the reply to the question asked a couple of times - any success with butts (no pun intended)

I too appreciate your willingness to share - thanks
 
bump for a cool thread by manwon. though I haven't tried it I think it should be out up top again
 
Did it stay straight?

This is an old thread, but that's the point of my reviving it.

Did any of those who used Craig's method to successfully -- in the short term -- straighten a warped shaft find that -- over the long term -- the shaft stayed straight?

Not being skeptical here at all. Purely interested in hearing about the long-term outcomes. Thanks in advance.
 
How much do you charge for this service and what is the turnaround time? Can you fix a cue butt?, now that would be something!

I was in the Philippines some months ago, and had both a warped shaft (iQ cue) and a warped / uneven cue butt (Lucasi) fixed. It took a couple of days, and was not expensive.

The cuemakers name is Bautista

Dont know exactly what he did, think he had to open the Lucasi up to fix it, so he had to lay on a new grip afterwards.

Fixing the shaft included some heating treatment - the details are unclear

Both are 100% straight now and plays solid.
 
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