Cenntennial, Anniversary, Gold Crown 1, 2, and 3 frames, how flat do think they are

pdcue said:
Many people are aware Stevens made 80/20 cloth.

Many people, other than you, are also aware they made 100% wool cloth.

It's not Rocket Science.

Do you need it explained in shorter words?

Dale(Math Major at large)
Click to expand...

Yeah, I need you to provide some facts, because I can smell your BS all the way to Washington state.
 
So what exactly are you saying? Which Gold Crowns have the best frames, slate, etc?
 
alstl said:
So what exactly are you saying? Which Gold Crowns have the best frames, slate, etc?
Click to expand...

To pick the best GC, you'd need to pick a little something from all of them. Centennial's, Anniversarie's, GC1 , 2 &3's all had the same frames. They all had different rail bolt systems for attaching the rails to the slates, none of which Mark or I use today, as they were all flawed in one way or another. The pocket casting were all mounted differently, some better than other's. The best thing Brunswick could have done for the GC5, would have been to use a 30mm slate, because the extra weight and thickness would have helped control the frame from changing so much depending on humidity and environment. The list goes on and on, though like I've said in the past, there's no such thing as a bad GC, not when there are so many junk pool tables out here, even brand new.
 
alstl said:
So what exactly are you saying? Which Gold Crowns have the best frames, slate, etc?
Click to expand...

I guess that's why I like Diamond pool tables so much, pretty much everything I have to fix on GCs, is nonexistent in the Diamonds for the most part.
 
alstl said:
So what exactly are you saying? Which Gold Crowns have the best frames, slate, etc?
Click to expand...

It's actually boring, as in no challenge to work on updating a Diamond to play 100% perfect today, because there's very little to do to the rails when compared to the amount of work I have to do to the entire GCs.
 
My GC II is some 40+ years old. Maybe 50+.
It is dead freaking level. Absolutely dead freaking level.
You can slow roll the ball parallel to the rails and it veer off.
I need new Superspeed though.
And would prefer a 2 3/8" 139* corner openings.
And new gullies.
 
JoeyInCali said:
My GC II is some 40+ years old. Maybe 50+.
It is dead freaking level. Absolutely dead freaking level.
You can slow roll the ball parallel to the rails and it veer off.
I need new Superspeed though.
And would prefer a 2 3/8" 139* corner openings.
And new gullies.
Click to expand...

Well then, with desires like that, I'd suggest selling your GC to someone interested in playing pool, and order you up one of them Russian pyramid tables:thumbup:
 
book collector said:
I'm sure Dr. Dave or Bob Jewett could answer this question more reliably but I believe the accuracy of a water tube level over a 10 foot span is .20944 inches, a Starrett level is accurate to .005 inches.
The water hose level is an inexpensive great way to measure over long distances or as RKC said , leveling a sidewalk or a deck , but not so good for a pool table.
Click to expand...

Levels do not measure distance (0.005 inches), they measure angles from gravitational flat (my term, hopefully descriptive enough for folks to know what I mean). Starrett 98 levels are accurate to 0.005" per foot.

from http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...recision-Measuring-Tools/98-12#Specifications
Main level vials have graduations that are approximately 80-90 seconds or .005" per foot

Dave <-- nit picking perhaps, but 0.005" per inch and 0.005" per furlong or 0.005" over a 10' span would be very different :D
 
DaveK said:
Levels do not measure distance (0.005 inches), they measure angles from gravitational flat (my term, hopefully descriptive enough for folks to know what I mean). Starrett 98 levels are accurate to 0.005" per foot.

from http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...recision-Measuring-Tools/98-12#Specifications
Main level vials have graduations that are approximately 80-90 seconds or .005" per foot

Dave <-- nit picking perhaps, but 0.005" per inch and 0.005" per furlong or 0.005" over a 10' span would be very different :D
Click to expand...

Well done, sir.

I once designed a auto-leveling post system that is being used in manufacturing that employed a scanning laser accurate (flatness) to 0.00003"/ft. Not that this is applicable in leveling pool tables, either, but when I needed to be +/-0.003" over 100ft envelope, this fit the bill.
 
Last edited:
realkingcobra said:
I can't open that thread, says bad gateway 502
Click to expand...

attachment.php
 
iusedtoberich said:
I made a sketch for the leveling system I had in my head for a while.... Started a new thread to discuss it in the table mechanics section. Enjoy:)

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=410123
Click to expand...

Leg me clear your head of this leveling idea of yours, so you can focus on the more important things in life. First off, if you were to create 18 leveling points around the outside perimeter of the slates, that would require 18 additional holes to be drilled through the slates. Secondly, that would also require 18 holes to be drilled through a 3/4" extended plywood frame member, which would have to line up perfectly with the 18 holes in the slate. Then you'd need 8 additional holes in the slate and frame at the 4 outer seam points in order to level the seams flat to one another. That's a total of 26 leveling points, all being based on the ability to push up or pull down the slate at predetermined points, some which may not be used at all as not needed. Yet, all these leveling points have to be installed because you're in the blind until you start the leveling process.
 
I hve no idea where the rail bolts are with this leveling system, but no matter where they are, they can't be in the same place as this leveling system idea of yours, so they have to be offset somewhere to each leveling point. Now let's say you build out a table with this system, but now for what ever reason the table get sold and has to be moved, but wait...the entire leveling system is bolting the slate to the frame, which means it has to be removed before the slates can be taken apart for disassembly.
 
[QU OTE=iusedtoberich;5348628]I made a sketch for the leveling system I had in my head for a while.... Started a new thread to discuss it in the table mechanics section. Enjoy:)

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=410123[/QUOTE]

I'm not trying to be rude or insulting, so please don't take this the wrong way, but sometimes it's easier to draw a rocket ship on a piece of paper, than it is to actually build one and fly it to the moon. Building a better rocket ship is better done by first having total knowledge of what the success and failures have been before your idea can improve on what is currently being done. So, with all the knowledge I have about pool tables, and how they work, there's no way I could take an idea like this, and make it work on a pool table, nice try though.
 
realkingcobra said:
[QU OTE=iusedtoberich;5348628]I made a sketch for the leveling system I had in my head for a while.... Started a new thread to discuss it in the table mechanics section. Enjoy:)

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=410123
Click to expand...

I'm not trying to be rude or insulting, so please don't take this the wrong way, but sometimes it's easier to draw a rocket ship on a piece of paper, than it is to actually build one and fly it to the moon. Building a better rocket ship is better done by first having total knowledge of what the success and failures have been before your idea can improve on what is currently being done. So, with all the knowledge I have about pool tables, and how they work, there's no way I could take an idea like this, and make it work on a pool table, nice try though.[/QUOTE]

Just because you can't do it doesn't mean it can't be done. Correct?
 
decent dennis said:
I'm not trying to be rude or insulting, so please don't take this the wrong way, but sometimes it's easier to draw a rocket ship on a piece of paper, than it is to actually build one and fly it to the moon. Building a better rocket ship is better done by first having total knowledge of what the success and failures have been before your idea can improve on what is currently being done. So, with all the knowledge I have about pool tables, and how they work, there's no way I could take an idea like this, and make it work on a pool table, nice try though.
Click to expand...

Just because you can't do it doesn't mean it can't be done. Correct?[/QUOTE]

Yes, Diamond has designed their wedges leveling system, and I've designed my own as well, so it can be done, just not the way iusedtoberich thought a leveling system could be done.
 
Glen:

After reading through this entire thread and numerous others you have authored and taken time to share with us on the forum, working on the various tables that you have done every imaginable type of refurb or correction or restoration on and with, IN YOUR EXPERT OPINION and perspective of what you know today, what USED 9' table would you recommend as the best overall - same for NEW 9'ers?

Commercial, competitive use of course.

And I want to assume it will be you, Glen, getting the job to set these tables up from the get-go and do whatever you think needs to be done. Used or new.

So which USED or NEW tables do we decide on?

Knowing your time is important, just two short, to the point answers are fine. Then a member can follow up with a PM or email with you directly.

Thanks, Glen!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top