You should know ... you loaned it to me. Thank you for the clarification.Well actually, it was the mako blue version of Great White I believe.
Catch you later,
Dave
You should know ... you loaned it to me. Thank you for the clarification.Well actually, it was the mako blue version of Great White I believe.
Have you tried Russian Magic?
For me the advantage of RM is what you may be looking for. For those who chalk every shot most of these chalks will do.
The Russian magic chalk I have been buying from RJ is by far the cleanest chalk I have tried. Table,hands and pool balls are much cleaner.
That's a piece of chalk that actually might be worth $30, assuming an opponent is actually dumb enough to use it multiple times (although, you probably don't need a dud chalk to beat somebody like that anyway).I have in my possession a piece of chalk that disproves the idea that any chalk applied correctly will serve its purpose. I stole it from my local bar, in part to get it out of circulation but also because I was so impressed by its miscue-causing properties. It was unbranded and originally had some advertising on it but that's been rubbed away. You're seriously better off with no chalk than with this chalk. It would be ideal for planting on a table for your opponent's use when you have your own chalk. $30 buys it (or whatever the going rate for Kamui, it's surely worth as much).
I appreciate the offer, but I think I have had enough chalk testing for a while. It was fun the first time, but it has been less and less fun with each additional test.I'd be happy to send it to you for analysis and appraisal![]()
That's really interesting.
I use the Great White chalk, primarily because I love the magnetic holder. It leaves little white chalk dots all over the cue ball: I wonder if there are any downsides to that?
For those interested, much more info (including numerous online video demonstrations) dealing with cling/skid/kick is available here:Chalk on the cue ball causes "skids". If the cue ball happens to contact the object ball at the spot where the chalk is, there is a clinging action that occurs. Any effects of throw caused by the shot normally, are greatly magnified by this, usually resulting in a missed shot.
Chalk on the cue ball causes "skids". If the cue ball happens to contact the object ball at the spot where the chalk is, there is a clinging action that occurs. Any effects of throw caused by the shot normally, are greatly magnified by this, usually resulting in a missed shot.
FYI, a good example of cling/skid/kick with a follow shot can be viewed in super slow motion in the following video:I would like to see a slow motion video on that.
That's a piece of chalk that actually might be worth $30, assuming an opponent is actually dumb enough to use it multiple times (although, you probably don't need a dud chalk to beat somebody like that anyway).
But you make a good point ... I shouldn't say: "any" chalk, when applied correctly, is adequate. Instead, I should instead say: "all of the chalks that I have tested ..."
Regards,
Dave
FYI, a good example of cling/skid/kick with a follow shot can be viewed in super slow motion in the following video:
HSV B.46 - CB and OB hop and spin transfer during follow shots
Many people seem to think the balls actually "cling" together and stay in contact longer with shots like this, but that's not the case. The excessive throw comes from the extra friction created by the chalk mark. For more info, see the cling/skid/kick resource page.
Enjoy,
Dave
I would like to see a slow motion video on that.
I was hitting some balls today, checking the chalk marks on the cue ball for accuracy. I remembered taking a lesson a couple of years back and the instructor pulled out some Predator chalk. His reason was that it left marks better. So maybe some of these chalks could be helpful during practice.
I have been using Kamui .98 chalk at home for about 6 months. I think it's fantastic. I have better control over spin and CB control and am stroking more easily and consistently in general. I can see that there is residue on the rails of the table where chalk rubs off my hands and a bit of a sheen in spots on my cloth (heavily used Simonis 860, 5 years old). I vacuum the table and use a micro-cloth regularly, but the sheen doesn't all come off. Another thread on AZ talked about how hard it is to clean the cloth, but nobody really offered a method. I can't find any good recommendations anywhere else on the web, either (I'm not putting it in the washing machine or ironing it (YIKES!).
Does anybody have a practical suggestion?
Chalk doesn't make all the difference, but I feel more confident lately. YMMV...I'd never, in a million years claim that MC could make stroking more easy and consistent. Not really sure how you believe you have better cue ball control either ??