Changing from 13mm to 12.5mm
- Thread starter 3RAILKICK
- Start date
I agree with Dave. I play with anything from 11.75 Z to 13mm. 11 if you count my snooker cue.
12.50 being my favorite shaft tho.
Take a look at a 13 beside a 12.50. Not much difference but I think you'll like it and absolutely no biggy to get used to.
12.50 being my favorite shaft tho.
Take a look at a 13 beside a 12.50. Not much difference but I think you'll like it and absolutely no biggy to get used to.
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Shoot one particular cut shot.
Use 1 tip of side spin.
Use 2 tips of side spin.
Compare.
Place the object ball on the foot rail middle diamond, with the cue ball one ball to the right of the head spot and cut the object ball in the left corner pocket. Keep shooting it until you can make it fairly consistently.
The 12.5mm shaft will squirt the cue ball a little less than the 13mm shaft, imo.
JoeyA
Exactly! I play mostly with 11.75 these days, but can immediately swap to 12.5 or 13 with no problem.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
I wish I didn't have any problems. I have larger than normal hands so I need something thicker (13+). I have a sneaky that's 12.3 and it feels like I'm shooting with a pencil. I love the cue and the hit, but I'm weary of having another shaft made for it because then it may not hit the same. I think my best bet may be to ship it back to the original maker for that.
Going smaller feels good, when you get used to that though, going bigger feels a bit weird.
You know what I realized, you can't write anything about pool without feeling like you're writing a porn novel at some point.
You know what I realized, you can't write anything about pool without feeling like you're writing a porn novel at some point.
I think a little more taper woudl lessen the additional stiffness...but your shaftmaakerman might not be wanting to get into all that. Or he could probably advise you better than I.:sorry:
A little.
I'm having 2 shafts made at 12.5mm. One from an AZB member with his proprietory taper. Another from a local cue builder.
The local builder is duplicating the taper, ferrule and tip combo that he did from a local player's specs. (the local experiments a lot) I hit it and liked it. It has some conical taper and the last 5 inches or so narrow down to the finished 12.5mm.
fwiw-I play with a 10.5mm for snooker and golf-but that's a different deal. Not as much asked of the cb.
thanks for the replys-I agree-just play. thanks for the advice.
take care
I see differing recommendations as to shaft tip size.
Discounting the feel in the hand for large or small hands.
There are basics to why one tip size works better.
What is gained, or lost in moving up or down in tip size?
Is there something that can be described physically.
What is the basis of why you would recommend one size over another?
No expert here, but in general, I'd say the main advantage to a smaller diameter shaft/tip is reduction of endmass. Larger will result in a more rigid shaft with more endmass (LD tech shafts excluded).
But for the CM, it's not that simple. Factoring in variables like the wood's weight & density is really the key to figuring out the right diameter and taper for a shaft.
Some also say the shaft/tip diameter will affect the size of the contact patch made with whitey. To some extent that may be true, but I think the tip's radius or shape has more to do with that
...my 2 cents
But for the CM, it's not that simple. Factoring in variables like the wood's weight & density is really the key to figuring out the right diameter and taper for a shaft.
Some also say the shaft/tip diameter will affect the size of the contact patch made with whitey. To some extent that may be true, but I think the tip's radius or shape has more to do with that
...my 2 cents
I started playing with a glove when using my Z2 to make up the differnce in feel.