Changing to a phenolic ferrule/tip

WesleyW said:
Is this the kind of ferrule you're talking about?

7597_thumb.jpg


This isn't really phenolic you know, it can break really easy. Someone has show me real phenolic. It's like 5 inches long. He cut it in pieces and install it on the shaft. It feel much more solid than those cheap phenolic ferrule. It also play much better.
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What do you mean this isn't real phenolic? What do you consider real?
 
Phenolic is a type of plastic, there is themal set plastic and thermal plastic. Phenolic is a thermal set plastic (won't melt down.) Go to your local plastic distrubutor and you can get rods of this crap for $1. One rod is good to make many magical thermal set plastic tips (phenolic). It cost like 1 cent to make one tip. After you have this hard to find plastic. :rolleyes: Go to your local high school and ask the shop teacher if he'll have his best wood worker put it on for you and your in business all for 1 penny. :eek:
Jamison

Ask the plastic distrubutors about the different types of thermal set plastic they have it's all similar.
 
JamisonNeu said:
Go to your local high school and ask the shop teacher if he'll have his best wood worker put it on for you
Jamison
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This is maybe not the best advice I've ever read here.:eek:
 
Varney Cues said:
JamisonNeu said:
Go to your local high school and ask the shop teacher if he'll have his best wood worker put it on for you
Jamison
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This is maybe not the best advice I've ever read here.:eek:
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LOL... My shop teacher was missing two fingers! :p
 
Well, no matter how you cut it, chop it, slice it, fit it, stick it, break with it, doesn't matter to me, so long as I can get a proper top quality J/B in my hands, like a Varney J/B, then I'll be a happy chappie :D :cool:

It really sucks though, having to wait a while though before I will be able to order one :(

Willie
 
TheWizard said:
It really sucks though, having to wait a while though before I will be able to order one :(

Willie
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Start putting your vending machine change in a jar at night. You'd be surprised at how fast the silver adds up!
 
Russ Chewning said:
I was considering trying out a phenolic ferrule/tip, but don't want to buy a whole jump/break stick. I would like to have the ferrule/tip changed out to phenolic on one of my Schon shafts.

Anyone know if this is possible, and if so, who does this kind of work?

If anyone has changed out their tip/ferrule to phenolic, please give some results, how it worked out for you, and a referencefor someone who can do this.

Thanks,

Russ
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Yup. Picone replaced mine with a white diamond tip. No complaints. Improved my breaking by about 35%. Cost was not high. Turnaround was less than a week. But I think I should've invested in a J/J as my cue is not really specifically designed to break, and definitely not designed for jumping. My breaking cue that got modified: Lucasi LD3... I know it's a bit cheesy, but most people who have played with it tell me it provides a solid hit.
 
JamisonNeu said:
Phenolic is a type of plastic, there is themal set plastic and thermal plastic. Phenolic is a thermal set plastic (won't melt down.) Go to your local plastic distrubutor and you can get rods of this crap for $1. One rod is good to make many magical thermal set plastic tips (phenolic). It cost like 1 cent to make one tip. After you have this hard to find plastic. :rolleyes: Go to your local high school and ask the shop teacher if he'll have his best wood worker put it on for you and your in business all for 1 penny. :eek:
Jamison

Ask the plastic distrubutors about the different types of thermal set plastic they have it's all similar.
Click to expand...

Phenolic Resin Rods are made of Thermosetting material. This means it will burn before it will melt. Softer ferrules are made of Thermoplastic material, which means it will become soft when heated and harden when cooled. Among the Thermosetting materials used in jump tips the Linen Phenolic ferrule material is prettier with its fine weave than the Canvas Phenolic. However the Canvas has proven to hold chalk better and be a little stronger. Your advice is good advice to get a cheap tip ferrule combo installed. But remember if it is cheap it probably won't be good. You are advising a guy to take his $150 Schon shaft to someone with Zero Cue repair experience and trust him to do this job. Advice like this will surely create some work for the real cue repairmen that have to straighten the mess out.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
Irish634 said:
Start putting your vending machine change in a jar at night. You'd be surprised at how fast the silver adds up!
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I know, and i'm in that process already, of course, I'm gonna have get some local action going, to kinda help that process along a little better, just for a little boost ;) :D

Willie
 
ratcues said:
What do you mean this isn't real phenolic? What do you consider real?
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I consider high quality phenolic as real. It's heavier and stronger. Real phenolic wouldn't break that easily. Maybe those cheap ones are just normal plastic, like JamisonNeu said, phenolic is a type of plastic. And normal plastic is just really cheap. Those cheap one cost like $10 each, the high quality cost like $30 (same size). I'm not an expert, so I don't know what is the exact differences. But when you see a bad quality one and a good quality one, you will see that there are hugh differences.

I think cueaddicts can confirm that there are big differents of phenolic in the market. Just read his reply. I hope some cue maker can tell more about this kind of stuff.

cueaddicts said:
I wouldn't trade my phenolic ferrule/tip set up for anything. That being said, watch out. If anyone is thinking of having somebody do this, make sure to ask about the material being used. I've seen some really bad black and tan "phenolic" stuff out there that looks more like cheap plastic than anything. It will not hold up. Make sure the material is the strong, woven canvas-based stuff.
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WesleyW said:
I consider high quality phenolic as real. It's heavier and stronger. Real phenolic wouldn't break that easily. Maybe those cheap ones are just normal plastic, like JamisonNeu said, phenolic is a type of plastic. And normal plastic is just really cheap. Those cheap one cost like $10 each, the high quality cost like $30 (same size). I'm not an expert, so I don't know what is the exact differences. But when you see a bad quality one and a good quality one, you will see that there are hugh differences.

I think cueaddicts can confirm that there are big differents of phenolic in the market. Just read his reply. I hope some cue maker can tell more about this kind of stuff.
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The picture you posted, from the Mueller website, is a canvas phenolic. They are resin and not plastic. Plastic is a very generic term that has quite a stigma in the billiard industry so I'd be careful throwing that term around. Our tips and ferrule/tip combos are less expensive than most because of the volume we have to purchase and we machine them here in-house. No middleman.
 
WesleyW said:
Those cheap one cost like $10 each, the high quality cost like $30
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You sir are very, very wrong with your prices. On 2nd thought...how many of the good ones would you like to buy at $30 each?:D
Plastic is a Meucci ferrule...not what we are discussing here.
Hightower was correct. You can buy the black & brown phenolic with the small, tight weave pattern...this stuff will indeed break, its somewhat brittle. Many makers are using this & have no idea.
The better option is, as Rat & Chris both said, the canvas-resin. It has the larger weave pattern as shown in the Mueller picture. This stuff is bullet proof & holds chalk well. If you've had this break on you then it was installed wrong...no if's, and's, or but's. Problems range from too large an id hole to leaving the cap too thin. If machined & installed properly then you'll never have any problems. I know...I give a lifetime warranty against cracking, splitting, breaking.
Now everyone know's the truth to the matter. :)
 
cueman said:
Phenolic Resin Rods are made of Thermosetting material. This means it will burn before it will melt. Softer ferrules are made of Thermoplastic material, which means it will become soft when heated and harden when cooled. Among the Thermosetting materials used in jump tips the Linen Phenolic ferrule material is prettier with its fine weave than the Canvas Phenolic. However the Canvas has proven to hold chalk better and be a little stronger. Your advice is good advice to get a cheap tip ferrule combo installed. But remember if it is cheap it probably won't be good. You are advising a guy to take his $150 Schon shaft to someone with Zero Cue repair experience and trust him to do this job. Advice like this will surely create some work for the real cue repairmen that have to straighten the mess out.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
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Tap Tap Tap, I totally agree!!!!!!
 
I just read my post and it reads like I was saying anyone can work on a cue. Not what I meant, I was trying to say this is what I would do.

Then again I have went into a "pro" trick shot tourney wielding a cue I whittled by hand with a pocket knife and some sand paper. I only got 12th place using that cue (my first "pro" tournament.) I did however learn something and that is why you want a lathe.

I appologize for my last post I didn't mean anything bad or rude towards you guys. I do know how hard it is to find a great cue maker.

Jamison
 
Varney Cues said:
You sir are very, very wrong with your prices. On 2nd thought...how many of the good ones would you like to buy at $30 each?:D
Plastic is a Meucci ferrule...not what we are discussing here.
Hightower was correct. You can buy the black & brown phenolic with the small, tight weave pattern...this stuff will indeed break, its somewhat brittle. Many makers are using this & have no idea.
The better option is, as Rat & Chris both said, the canvas-resin. It has the larger weave pattern as shown in the Mueller picture. This stuff is bullet proof & holds chalk well. If you've had this break on you then it was installed wrong...no if's, and's, or but's. Problems range from too large an id hole to leaving the cap too thin. If machined & installed properly then you'll never have any problems. I know...I give a lifetime warranty against cracking, splitting, breaking.
Now everyone know's the truth to the matter. :)
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Ah, clarity. :) It just takes a cuemaker to properly convey what I was trying to state earlier. Thanks, Mr. Varney & Chris. Insist on the canvas based stuff....it's the nutz.
 
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