Cleaning Shafts?

timothysoong

timothysoong

TS Billiards
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Is there anyway to clean shafts without using abrasives?

I've searched throughout the forum(so don't tell me to use the search lol)

Some say use damp cloth. Q-Wiz. Magic Eraser. 600-1500 Grit Sandpaper.

How do u actually use a magic eraser? It's an abrasive, how do u make sure the shafts cleaned evenly? Do u put on a lathe?

Tim
 
I just wet the magic eraser and then squeeze to get all the water out and then go up and down the shaft, then I use a paper town to dry it and it gets clean, takes all the chalk off and is slick when I am ready to play. I have been using this method for years and have never had a issue. gl Tom
 
poolandpokerman said:
I just wet the magic eraser and then squeeze to get all the water out and then go up and down the shaft, then I use a paper town to dry it and it gets clean, takes all the chalk off and is slick when I am ready to play. I have been using this method for years and have never had a issue. gl Tom
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I use the exact same method, and burnish with leather or a thick shot glass. To me, magic eraser is the bomb.
 
I use Q-Clean as directed. I think it's just powdered bleach. Then I use a piece of 2k grit sandpaper then a piece of 2500 grit. I think anything less than that will slowly turn your cue into a toothpick. I tried the Magic Eraser to see what the hype was about and hated it as it raised the grain or took away softer grain of the shaft. I would recommend against it.
 
I clean with a paper towel and 99% isopropyl alcohol. I used to use a magic eraser that I dampened with the alcohol but no longer do because as stated above, it left a funny feeling. My favorite method recently discovered is using computer monitor wipes. They are very soft and rather effective for a quick wipe down.
 
I too use Magic Eraser but use it dry. It works great, lifts the chalk dust right out of the shaft. I cut the Magic Eraser into 8 small pieces and keep a piece in my pocket while playing. In addition to that, I also use Alcohol swabs available at any pharmacy. They are great for a quick clean to remove oils and stickiness from your shaft. It dries immediately and doesn't raise the grain and leaves your shaft silky smooth. Another alternative that works well are eyeglass cleaning wipes, quick and easy. All three clean both ferrule and shaft in seconds.:thumbup:
 
any time i have a shaft worked on or have a new shaft, the first thing i do is dirty it up with wet coffee grounds.
 
I use Q clean and Q wax. I believe I picked them both up for around 20$ and you get enough product that it will last for a long time. Works great for me.
 
DirtyJersey said:
I use Q-Clean as directed. I think it's just powdered bleach. Then I use a piece of 2k grit sandpaper then a piece of 2500 grit. I think anything less than that will slowly turn your cue into a toothpick. I tried the Magic Eraser to see what the hype was about and hated it as it raised the grain or took away softer grain of the shaft. I would recommend against it.
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If your shaft hasn't been properly sealed, that'll happen. Lots of production companies have this problem.

David Marcus said:
I too use Magic Eraser but use it dry. It works great, lifts the chalk dust right out of the shaft. I cut the Magic Eraser into 8 small pieces and keep a piece in my pocket while playing. In addition to that, I also use Alcohol swabs available at any pharmacy. They are great for a quick clean to remove oils and stickiness from your shaft. It dries immediately and doesn't raise the grain and leaves your shaft silky smooth. Another alternative that works well are eyeglass cleaning wipes, quick and easy. All three clean both ferrule and shaft in seconds.:thumbup:
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There is no way to restore a dirty chalk stained shaft back to new wood glory. All that matters is that the shaft glides smoothly in your hands. Magic erasers when used wet or dry remove the grime that bugs people. But if your unsure whether your shaft is properly sealed or not. Just take it to a cue guy.
 
timothysoong said:
Is there anyway to clean shafts without using abrasives?

I've searched throughout the forum(so don't tell me to use the search lol)

Some say use damp cloth. Q-Wiz. Magic Eraser. 600-1500 Grit Sandpaper.

How do u actually use a magic eraser? It's an abrasive, how do u make sure the shafts cleaned evenly? Do u put on a lathe?

Tim
Click to expand...

Non abrasive method - Alcohol, denatured is a bit better for wood than isopropyl both are effective. Cabinet makes use denatured when working with wood.

Abrasive method - magic erasure is popular, other abrasive products include Q Clean, Cue Doctor shaft cleaner and similar pool marketed products. All of these products also leave a residue.

All cleaning methods require a burnish preferably using leather.

Another very handy product is Q smooth or Nick's Edge burnishing film (same product, except Nick's doesn't have the ost abrasive film) to micro sand.

The computer wipes is a really interesting idea that I am going to test.
 
I also use a dab of high-content alcohol on a magic eraser. If you want to avoid the magic eraser, just use a cloth or paper towel with the alcohol.
 
I usually have my local guy clean them..but I have used a lightly damp magic eraser ..then lightly dry the moisture with a microfiber towel not causing any heat..then I apply a light coat of wax on a microfiber towel and rub it on..then lastly burnish it with leather pad...comes out clean and slick...I don't mind a blueing shaft, I can't stand a non slick cue though
 
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How does one properly seal their shaft. ( I hate the way that sounds but I think you know what I mean :shrug: )
 
I have used a very small amount of Q clean (that stuff lasts 4ever) on a very slightly paper towel quickly on the shaft and a little on the ferrule, till the blue comes off and dry with a separate paper towel till a little heat ensures it is dry.

This product is a little abrasive so I do use it with a slightly damp towel as abovestated, but do not use it as much as the cleaner mentioned below.

I do indeed live the Q smooth and end everything with a leather burnish until smooth.

I had a teammate show me that Novartis "eye scrub" is gentle and did an excellent job on removing blue on the ferrule without abrasion.

THE BEST PRODUCT: A professional cuemaker clued me in to using a product that has been around for a long time: "Bon Ami" which is non abrasive and a gentle powder cleaner. CHEAP: Got it at Wal-mart for about a buck I think. Definitely a gentle product, and I clean with it prior to any microgrit such as Q smooth or Nick Varner's product... cause it does not make sense to sand dirt and any chalk into a shaft. I use a microfiber cloth at the end and then burnish like heck.

I love "cue silk" on maple shafts... amazing stuff, reduces friction by about 20%IMHO, and smell good... but does not do the same job on my laminated shaft.. it gunks up a bit to me on that one.

I have reviewed forum and spoke to cheapcues and Jacoby about wax on a laminated shaft. I tried Mothers brand liquid auto carnauba wax but did not like it at all. Found out the I need to use a little HARD paste carnauba instead... just "a very small minimal amount" and rub it into the shaft don't wait for it to dry. then leather burnish. The heat will natural aid it in getting into the pores.

I will try that this weekend, although my cues are always clean. It just seems like I should seal or wax it rather than just micro-grit and leather burnish. Read all about sealers but am not going to use them.

12-15-14 tried a little bit of mother's carnauba paste wax from Wal-mart, after first cleaning he cue with Bon-Ami.

After micro sanding a slight bit till smooth I Immediately rubbed it into the shaft using a brown paper bag. Do notl et it dry. Tuen over the paper bag and use the other side to burnish. The heat assists it in getting into the pores. Then final burnish with leather until the shaft is warm.

Is should shine like crazy and be smooth as silk. I'm sold on it.

Just my 2 cents and experience here.

I have not tried Mr. clean yet as I just do not need it, and reviews have said it is a little abrasive or raises more grain.
 
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I usually just wipe with dry microfiber towel. When it really needs a deep cleaning, I like Cue Doctor shaft conditioner. Just a dab is plenty. Good stuff.
 
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sealer

I seal shafts with clear lacquer in a bottle. I use it on the lathe. Just put it on a paper towel and apply it. (Most wood sealer products have lacquer as the main ingredient) It dries fast. Then just sand with 1000 grit paper to remove any high spots or lines. That won't sand your shaft at all. Then a couple of coats of wax.
 
i use soft scrub with bleach spong with a green scrub side..damp spong lightly scub with ether side green side if realy dirty rinse of with water towel dry then hang up or lay down to dry completly burnish with a peice of old 2000 2500 sand paper...never a problem ever .comet ajax.or dish washing liquid works fine to remember damp not sloopy wet you not trying to water log the saft just clean the surface dirt
 
pickngrin said:
Has anyone tried Motomaster hand cleaner Product #38-1017-8 GOJO ® pumice hand cleaner? I got this from a Youtube video by Manning cues: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHw-F4PQyLM
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I've used that stuff, I like it. A while back I purchased this stuff from Chris Hightower, sort of like a windex for cues, not abrasive, no alcohol smell. That seems to work pretty well to a point but for a really dirty shaft the hand cleaner seemed to work a little better. Mr. Manning said any one containing lanolin should do ok.
 
I've read a lot about the QClean powder. Gonna buy a bottle to try out. Hope it doesnt work like most cleaning+conditioning, I've got one of those, it doesn't actually take the blue out of the shaft but burnish the shaft and makes the shaft feel very chafed.
 
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