CM, Do you test your cue?

If you buy a BLACK HEART Q you are buying a used Q. I hit with every Q I make. I hit high, low, left & right. Then I look at the joint surfaces, to see where the pressure is being applied. If it passes these tests, I ship it...JER
 
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BLACKHEARTCUES said:
If you buy a BLACK HEART Q you are buying a used Q. I hit with every Q I make. I hit high, low, left & right. Then I look at the joint surfaces, to see where the pressure is being applied. If it passes these tests, I ship it...JER
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Just like a new car. They have all been tested. Just not worn out.Yet they are sold as new.
In my opinion, if the maker does not hit with a cue, there is no certainty that it was as good as it could have been when it left the craftsman or craftswoman.
When you are paying for quality , testing is part of the quality check.
Neil
 
conetip said:
Just like a new car. They have all been tested. Just not worn out.Yet they are sold as new.
In my opinion, if the maker does not hit with a cue, there is no certainty that it was as good as it could have been when it left the craftsman or craftswoman.
When you are paying for quality , testing is part of the quality check.
Neil
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What other reliability test do you perform?
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I hit high, low, left & right.
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Most cue hit and sound good using high, low, left and right.

But it sound BAD playing center on most of my cues. (Only one cue I tested sound better)

What is the reason for that unsolid hit?

Any idea :idea2: ?
 
masonh said:
what does it sound like?
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I do not know how to descript it.

Any English sound good. Almost like solid wood. But playing center sound different almost on all cue. I think you know what I mean.

Mason, how about your sneaky cue equiped with non metal pin? just curious. Could it be cause by metal-made pin?
 
A cue not tested by the CM before it ships in not my kinda cue. Actually, I prefer buying a cue already used personally by the CM. :)
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
If you buy a BLACK HEART Q you are buying a used Q. I hit with every Q I make. I hit high, low, left & right. Then I look at the joint surfaces, to see where the pressure is being applied. If it passes these tests, I ship it...JER
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DITTO THAT
i usually let a few other people shoot with it too, looking for any unbiased opinions i can get
 
Come on Brent that is damaged goods... hehehe
I gotta test fire em before they go out. Don't use chalk most of the time just some center balls and slightly off center. It gotta have that sweet sound...
 
RocketQ said:
Come on Brent that is damaged goods... hehehe
I gotta test fire em before they go out. Don't use chalk most of the time just some center balls and slightly off center. It gotta have that sweet sound...
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looks like im the only unlucky one. How come I get all the crap cues?
All center ball hit sound bad to me on my cue.
 
Besides hitting with the cue of course.
I take shafts to my pool table, I match the shaft by tone first before weight.
Kerry Zeiler taught me how to tone shafts using the slate.
IF cue comes with two shafts, they will have very similar tonal characteristics.
I bounce the butt lightly on the concrete floor for tone.
Bounce the butt's a-joint area freely on the heel of my left hand for sound check. Any rattles and buzzes get exposed here right away . Zeiler was the first and only maker I saw that did this.

After the cue is finished, I test hit it so I can describe the hit to the owner.
 
icem3n said:
looks like im the only unlucky one. How come I get all the crap cues?
All center ball hit sound bad to me on my cue.
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what kind of cues?
what kind of shafts?
what kind of ferrules?
what kind of tips?
i find it hard to believe that there is something wrong with ALL of your cues
 
icem3n said:
looks like im the only unlucky one. How come I get all the crap cues?
All center ball hit sound bad to me on my cue.
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Might be an uncapped ferrule with a huge gap under the tip.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Besides hitting with the cue of course.
I take shafts to my pool table, I match the shaft by tone first before weight.
Kerry Zeiler taught me how to tone shafts using the slate.
IF cue comes with two shafts, they will have very similar tonal characteristics.
I bounce the butt lightly on the concrete floor for tone.
Bounce the butt's a-joint area freely on the heel of my left hand for sound check. Any rattles and buzzes get exposed here right away . Zeiler was the first and only maker I saw that did this.

After the cue is finished, I test hit it so I can describe the hit to the owner.
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Joey, Good info. The slate thing how is it done?

Any intense testing for the butt?

I got a couple weight bolt in snooker cues coming loose after few days of play. It look like they never test the cue before shipping em. :angry:
 
BHQ said:
what kind of cues?
what kind of shafts?
what kind of ferrules?
what kind of tips?
i find it hard to believe that there is something wrong with ALL of your cues
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Couple of SW, a few custom cues and a few high end production cues.

Shafts are solid maple. Ferrules range from Micarta to Ivory.

The ivory don't sound that bad.

The harder the tip the worse the sound get.

What the cause?
 
JoeyInCali said:
Might be an uncapped ferrule with a huge gap under the tip.
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Maybe the gap. Maybe not.

Some of the cue which still has the original tip have the same tone with center hit.

Could it be metal component in the cue or void somewhere?
 
masonh said:
probably the tip.try switching to a quieter tip,maybe Kamui or Moori.
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Maybe I should try switching back to softer tip. Hate to use the longer stroke.
 
Could it be metal component in the cue or void somewhere?
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not in a few SW.they are usually rock solid unless something happened to them.sometimes really hard LePros make a sound i don't like in m cues.i love LePros as a general rule,but some of them are no good.
 
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