Coring a Full-Splice Cue

rayjay

some of the kids
Silver Member
Someone posted on another thread that some cuemakers refuse to core their full-splice cues. What is the impact on the cue of doing this? Thanks!
:p
 
rayjay said:
Someone posted on another thread that some cuemakers refuse to core their full-splice cues. What is the impact on the cue of doing this? Thanks!
:p
Depending on the weight of the wood in the prong & handle area. For example I finished a Cocobolo & Maple full splice, last month. By coring the butt section with a 3/4" diameter x 8" long piece of Maple I moved the balance point a full inch forward & lightened the cue weight by 3/4 of an once...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Depending on the weight of the wood in the prong & handle area. For example I finished a Cocobolo & Maple full splice, last month. By coring the butt section with a 3/4" diameter x 8" long piece of Maple I moved the balance point a full inch forward & lightened the cue weight by 3/4 of an once...JER

This doesn't seem to be a problem that impacts the full splice, I guess... as long as it's in the butt section. Or is it a problem?? (...what makes Burton turn in his grave?)
 
Trying to core between the two sections would be blasphemy but coring the butt I suppose wouldn't be...
 
Thanks for the replys! So I guess the question remains...Why wouldn't some famous cuemakers core the butt of a full-splice cue?
 
rayjay said:
Thanks for the replys! So I guess the question remains...Why wouldn't some famous cuemakers core the butt of a full-splice cue?
Core or partial plug?
 
Hi Ray,

We have clients that have created a dowel on the full splice up to the end of the splice so that they can sleeve on ring works, exotic handle and still have the full splice feel without the core. It's a waste of a lot of wood but I think this process will work really well with the new ebony blanks full splice that we will be selling. As the ebony blanks are dense, the cored would provide a very solid foundation and give cuemaker the ability to properly blanks the cue to their spec.

We are experimenting with cored full splice blank right now with Amboyna Burl wood as the base. We were going to sell off our amboyna burl turning woods but have decided to keep them instead to make full splice blanks and short splice blanks with them. We have about 200 plus of these Amboyna Burl in 24" plus and 500 of the short 15" sitting in a warehouse in Asia. We hope to cored these if our integrity test fails for the full splice blanks. I think coring the blank is probably fine if it goes right through the whole blank and not partial. I was told that step coring would work better.

Regards,
Duc.
 
I inquired to prather cues a while ago about having an ebony into maple fullsplice made. When he expressed his opinion that the cue would be too butt heavy, I asked him whether it would be possible, after the blank was completed, to core it with a 29" dowel of maple. He told me that this would not be a good idea because that would greatly weaken the splice between the maple and ebony.
 
i am experimenting with a 12'' core on the back end of a ebony handle. i want to mimic or get close to a full splice feel with the precission of short splice points.

i have uneven points

with a hardwood handle i think the cue will be stiffer in the butt and give a thicker hit but weight is gonna be a prob im sure.
 
fullsplicefiend said:
I inquired to prather cues a while ago about having an ebony into maple fullsplice made. When he expressed his opinion that the cue would be too butt heavy, I asked him whether it would be possible, after the blank was completed, to core it with a 29" dowel of maple. He told me that this would not be a good idea because that would greatly weaken the splice between the maple and ebony.
You could go up in the handle and plug it with maple. Shorten the blank to 24-25" and use that maple for tenon sleeve.
But, if you go thru where the "fork" of the points is, I think you'd be weaking it and changing the hit of the cue drastically.
 
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