Coring challenge......to myself!

CavinTan said:
I have a little secret 'technology' for you to core your cues with, would prefer to discuss over PM if you're keen to give it a try.
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Thank you very much.
This is not my first two piece core but I liked it eneogh to share with my friends/acquaintances here.
I try hard to never be rude or arrogant so Please don't think I am now.
I can't think of one reason to make me want to use the pm function on this or any other site. I do appreciate the offer.
 
It's a lot more Exspensive coring with epoxy but I'm still glad I'm using it. Even when I used Gorilla glue my tolerances were better than most at .004
BUT
If gorilla glue needs moisture to activate, isn't it possible that the work piece also retains some of that moisture???
**My Dilemma**
I won't use Gorilla anymore.
 
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JC said:
I built a cue with a similar strategy and was pretty happy with the result. One of my buddies showed up here with a shaft all by itself and a 36 inch piece of western maple burl and asked me if I could build him a butt to match his shaft. I told him his wood was too soft and light so we would have to do something. I decided I didn't want to cut it up as it was old and really straight and pretty so I cored it first from the butt end as deep as my .775" gun drill would go, 16 inches and pushed a PH dowel in to a dead head which forced a lot of epoxy out of the wood. This maple absorbed over an ounce of epoxy on the butt coring. Then when it cured I drilled it again from the joint end as deep as my .691" drill would go, 16" which put the smaller core about 4 inches into the larger one. I tapered the end to match the gun drill contour to try to avoid air space where the cores joined. Then I again pushed a core in to a dead head, this time lignum vitae to give it some front weight. Again this soft maple absorbed a bunch of epoxy. When it was all said and done I had a butt that weighed 15 oz and change starting with wood that weighed 30 lbs a cubic foot or less. After I cut it down to final size it was basically epoxy resin impregnated from within.

Just how concentric the guts of this cue are at the A joint with the two dowels and the outer wood I'm afraid will never be known without cutting it up. I like to pretend in my delusional mind it's fairly straight in there. :) But it was a fun project.

Your metal joint in the dowel takes it to the next level, although I would probably just outsmart myself like I usually do with weight and balance schemes.

Anyway that was a while back I saw that cue the other day it's still straight and looking good. It's actually a visually stunning piece of wood. And it did indeed match his shaft. Doesn't hit too bad either.

Here it is

View attachment 578128View attachment 578129View attachment 578130View attachment 578131
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thats an amazing cue
 
Very neat idea Mike, wish I had that thought when I built a one piece tiger maple with a full core. Would have made the balance a bit better/easier to do.
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Great idea.
I've done the same thing but with two different woods and sizes.
3/4 maple on top and 7/8 pplheart for handle.
Really, the concept is very sound.
In a perfect world, we'd have these full-length cores of different weights and balances in bunches.
 
Michael Webb said:
Thank you very much.
This is not my first two piece core but I liked it eneogh to share with my friends/acquaintances here.
I try hard to never be rude or arrogant so Please don't think I am now.
I can't think of one reason to make me want to use the pm function on this or any other site. I do appreciate the offer.
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it will be 95% warp resistant 😄
 
Thank you to EVERYONE,
Especially the Cue makers who have participated. That's better than I had hoped for.
I welcome and respect your comments.
It's an outside the box thread and I think a Win Win.
 
JC said:
If 5% of my cues warped I would be looking for new processes.
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haha nice one, let me rephrase that. 99% unlikely for your woods to even move after finishing pass.
could probably do a start to finish pass in one sitting. will remain dead straight for a life time probably.
 
CavinTan said:
haha nice one, let me rephrase that. 99% unlikely for your woods to even move after finishing pass.
could probably do a start to finish pass in one sitting. will remain dead straight for a life time probably.
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Yes that is the general idea of coring cues.
 
I have never used any additional moisture to cure gorilla glue.......... it foams just fine at 35% humidity and the at 8% moisture............ Kim
 
The "what's new" feature of this new software has me going places I have never went before! Makes the site much more interesting and brings me to places I perhaps shouldn't be posting. Some beautiful cues on this thread and the two diameter overlapping coring was insightful. I had the same idea long ago, along with about a zillion others I never put to the test!

I used gorilla glue in a construction project long ago, the interior of a metal building. With the building wide open and the humidity in South Louisiana high enough you could lay a dry rag in the shade and wring it out thirty minutes later(a slight exaggeration) I had gorilla glue fail to cure completely. The issue seemed to be it cured nearer the surface and that prevented it from curing all of the way through. I have never used gorilla glue again! The only value to me seemed to be to try to fill voids that I shouldn't have had to begin with. I prefer more conventional glues and epoxies. I fell into using West Bros decades ago from an interest in boats. I have had the super glues fail to cure for lack of moisture too so I usually put just a swipe of moisture on surfaces before using superglue. A distrust of adhesives and glues was one of the reasons I never got serious about building cues with a cue lathe and NC mill on hand. I also like cutting metal and plastic more than wood. With COPD now I doubt that I ever do much with wood again. I really enjoyed ornamental turning but "stuff happens!"

Anyway, in this far ranging post I'll mention secrets. I have competed at several things over the years where everyone had "secrets". Nine times out of ten when someone let me in on a secret it was something I had known for years. We learn something for ourselves and think it is a secret. It rarely is. Many of the secrets were things I had read in books.

There is another thing, if we have discovered a secret, do we really want it to die with us? I have freely shared every "secret" I knew including the deep dark secrets of circle track chassis set up. I have never yet felt I was beaten by someone because I shared a secret.

On with my rambling! I suggest that everyone try that what's new feature. I think you will enjoy it.

Hu
 
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