.827, just saying
I've seen them 27 to 37...must of had a trainee running the machine one day or maybe the smaller one had the bump taken out already!
Coring to straighten cue?
- Thread starter r9ball
- Start date
I've seen them 27 to 37...must of had a trainee running the machine one day or maybe the smaller one had the bump taken out already!
I hear ya but at S.W. they told me they're pretty consistant and .825 to .828. When I see one in the 30's. My first question is usually, who refinished it?
Hi
Read this thread and found it interesting. I just measured my SW with a digital caliper and it measured .836".
Bought it brand new from the secondary market around early June 2010. Pin 346-10. Cue was delivered to the original owner early May 2010. I doubt it was refinished.
I like to know if the wood will swell up due to the high humidity as some cuemakers have confirmed the joint to be between .825" to .828".
Read this thread and found it interesting. I just measured my SW with a digital caliper and it measured .836".
Bought it brand new from the secondary market around early June 2010. Pin 346-10. Cue was delivered to the original owner early May 2010. I doubt it was refinished.
I like to know if the wood will swell up due to the high humidity as some cuemakers have confirmed the joint to be between .825" to .828".
When you measured the joint of your cue, you were measuring the phenolic collar.
Phenolic does not swell nor can the wood that it bands.
If you have a SW with an .836" jnt. dia., it was likely cut at that dimension for a reason.
Nominal jnt. dia. of a SW is .825".
Does your cue play any differently from other SW cues?
Phenolic does not swell nor can the wood that it bands.
If you have a SW with an .836" jnt. dia., it was likely cut at that dimension for a reason.
Nominal jnt. dia. of a SW is .825".
Does your cue play any differently from other SW cues?
Wonder what happened to the OP?
Anyone seen r9Ball
Anyone seen r9Ball
Thanks for the reply KJ. I've only tried 4 SW including mine before. 2 ebony nosed, 1 goncalo and 1 cocobolo nose. They all play very similar. But I have not measured the other 3 before.
Question:
How would a refinish increase the joint diameter? I understand loss of diameter in refinish jobs....but......
Are we talking about the thickness of the finish itself?
Thanks.
Yes, finish thickness. I removed the finish from a cue once that was over .040 thick on each side. That made almost .085 of finish.
Dick
Phenolic doesn't swell from humidity, but it will expand and contract with temperature changes like everything else. Granted, not much, but if you're measuring in the 0.001", you may see a change.
Hi Joe,
I know you are a smart guy and very experienced CM and choose your words very well. When you say "SW's true parabolic design imho is susceptible to showing a lift by the joint area. I'm not going to argue this even", you are just saying in a nice way that the cues are warped. It is plain to me that you have not drunk the Kool Aid.
It doesn't matter if there is a straight, parabolic, or compound taper on the butt or wether a linear area of the butt doesn't touch the table or not. If there is movement there is a warp, plain and simple.
I build parabolic tapered butts as well as shafts and have a critical eye concerning observations when a cue is rolled on a table. The real question is, does the operator observe a run out differential when the cues are between centers. In these overseas cues you reference, I think so.
Observed indicated run out between centers equals a warped cue or bad pin.
Any section of a cue the moves up or down when rolled on the table equals a warped cue.
If someone or some people want to accept the fact that there cue is warped and they like it, I got no problem with that. Live and let live.
Basic geometry reveals that a tapered shape cut on a revolving X Axis is concentric when it comes off the machine and will roll perfect or spin true between centers. This is an absolute but environmental conditions can change that fact.
Let's see:
Average Yearly Relative Humidity in Las Vegas in the afternoon is 23%.
Average Yearly Relative Humidity in Sigapore in the afternoon is 84%.
Maybe that might have some thing to do with the subject matter of this thread.
All of this business about hand planing cues that Icem3n put on the table is all just poppycock and he is just repeating some urban legend he heard.
Those overseas cues you describe and the one that started this thread are warped. I have found from my experience that building my cues on 30" dowels is the best way I can protect my cue from that fate. Man I love Expanding Polyurethane Glue.:love2:
What we do on this forum is share information. Before I found AZ Billiards I was building cues for 4 years and had a lot of misconceptions from my lack of experience and documented track record for monitoring cues in the field. Many people here on AZ have pointed out very small details that have made sea changes in my medthods and procedures.
To sit back and watch beating around the bush on a subject that is so relevant and fundamental to cue making defeats peer check and review and is counter productive for an industry forum sharing experience. There are other people that are watching this thread that are trying to gain knowledge. Let's not confuse them by failing to say the "W" word. :scratchhead:
JMO,
Rick G
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Ok,, I has time to put a straight edge on the forearm.
Just a couple things, the pin had no wobble when the cue was new and for first few years. Cue was never abused or left out in IL weather.
The taper is not straight from the joint to wrap, so a straight edge does not lie flat against the forearm.
The gaps between forearm and straight edge seem to be the same all around the forearm. Holding the straight edge at the A-joint across the forearm and handle, the gaps varied a little. It would seem to be an A-joint issue.
When holding the handle down flat and rolling the cue, the pin movement is about 2mm. The pin is not bent as you can see the forearm movement also.
The wobble is not enough to throw off any shot.
Not sure if I'll bother having it fixed yet. May call Laura back and try and get rough estimate.
Might also send it to one of the cuemakers here just to make sure and get a definite answer.
Just a couple things, the pin had no wobble when the cue was new and for first few years. Cue was never abused or left out in IL weather.
The taper is not straight from the joint to wrap, so a straight edge does not lie flat against the forearm.
The gaps between forearm and straight edge seem to be the same all around the forearm. Holding the straight edge at the A-joint across the forearm and handle, the gaps varied a little. It would seem to be an A-joint issue.
When holding the handle down flat and rolling the cue, the pin movement is about 2mm. The pin is not bent as you can see the forearm movement also.
The wobble is not enough to throw off any shot.
Not sure if I'll bother having it fixed yet. May call Laura back and try and get rough estimate.
Might also send it to one of the cuemakers here just to make sure and get a definite answer.
A friend of mine in Vietnam said his was in the .830's also, The only point of reference I have is that of Southwest and what they told me.
2mm is about 80 thousands..... .080". That is a lot for a pin to wobble.
Most people on this forum think 1 or 2 is a lot.
Kim
Based on what you say here I would suggest facing butt and shafts between centers and playing with it. Keep an eye open on it and if it gets worse maybe make some repairs in the future.
Maybe SW should follow your lead with one-piece core , gorilla glue and parabolic pro taper.