Coring!

Everyone has their own way of building a cue. People who buy cues have a lot of choices and that is a good thing.

Paul Drexler was one of the first guys to develop coring engineering on his cues and PFD cues are top of the heap. Chris doing it for over twenty years also speaks volumes.

Anyone who has problem in their mind with using GG or 3/4" dowels can use what they want. This is a free country.

If you use coring as a full core or you core the individual components with a A Joint the end result is better over all stability of the cue and that is the game changer IMO.

Rick
 
scdiveteam said:
Everyone has their own way of building a cue. People who buy cues have a lot of choices and that is a good thing.

Rick
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I agree with this statement, AZ has a mentality that if someone has a diffrent idea on how to do something that doesnt apeal to the majority that its wrong and shouldnt be done and the the person doing it should be damned.

Im simply saying "Build, and Let Build" the public will decided if they like the cues and if its worth the money, time will tell the truth for everyone.

Ive used GG, and Epoxy to core both have their place I believe, but coring can be over rated at times as well
 
Incredible!

We use Gorilla glue because it more closely resembles wood than any other glue. Epoxy is just too hard and misses spots when cored. There is a vast difference in the hit of the cue when using Gorilla glue to epoxy to cyano to some other type glues. We tested them all. We chose Gorilla glue as it does what we want it to do and feels the way we think a cue should feel.
 
scdiveteam said:
Everyone has their own way of building a cue. People who buy cues have a lot of choices and that is a good thing.

Paul Drexler was one of the first guys to develop coring engineering on his cues and PFD cues are top of the heap. Chris doing it for over twenty years also speaks volumes.

Anyone who has problem in their mind with using GG or 3/4" dowels can use what they want. This is a free country.

If you use coring as a full core or you core the individual components with a A Joint the end result is better over all stability of the cue and that is the game changer IMO.

Rick
Click to expand...
Doesn't PFD, like BB, use a full core with full size handle?
The core itself is the handle.
All different animal than .750 full length core.
 
whammo57 said:
I didn't think of that reason.......... that would be best for epoxy........ especially an epoxy that has a tendency to soak in..

Kim
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There is another reason, the best and strongest way to glue two pieces of wood together regardless of adhesive is clamped under pressure. When you slip one dowel inside the other there is no clamping. It is completely reliant on the adhesive to fill the gap. With a tapered core you could apply pressure, effectively clamping your two pieces together. You could use many different types of glue inc good old aliphatic cement.
 
cuebuyer4u said:
I agree with this statement, AZ has a mentality that if someone has a diffrent idea on how to do something that doesnt apeal to the majority that its wrong and shouldnt be done and the the person doing it should be damned.

Im simply saying "Build, and Let Build" the public will decided if they like the cues and if its worth the money, time will tell the truth for everyone.

Ive used GG, and Epoxy to core both have their place I believe, but coring can be over rated at times as well
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Unfortunately, some think all epoxies are the same. And that there's only one way to apply them.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Doesn't PFD, like BB, use a full core with full size handle?
The core itself is the handle.
All different animal than .750 full length core.
Click to expand...

I have a break cue from Bob Flynn, it`s made just that way and has a very solid feel and hit.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Unfortunately, some think all epoxies are the same. And that there's only one way to apply them.
Click to expand...

Can you share your method for coring with epoxy and eliminating dry spot possibilities? Or the best Urethane glue for coring since Gorilla seems to be getting a bad rap?
 
Been thinking about the tapered core since this thread started. Why not have a long end mill made and use your router and taper bar after coring the forearm to 5/8 ? It seems like you could play with the speed of the router, feed rate and spindle speed and make that work. Probably only need to gain 40 thousandths or so end to end to make a nice press fit on the core wood. And then why not use yellow carpenter's glue as Canadian Cue said? Should be plenty strong on that type of joint.

JC
 
JoeyInCali said:
Doesn't PFD, like BB, use a full core with full size handle?
The core itself is the handle.
All different animal than .750 full length core.
Click to expand...
Perry Weston did this way also. I have 6 off his handles right now I got in a trade. Someday I'll use them. The forearm and butt sleeve are .750

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Murray Tucker said:
Pool players all worried about cores and what glue is used. Meanwhile snooker players are running centuries with a piece of oiled ash and ebony glued together with wood glue and whittled round with a hand plane.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-R8WH8f-rnI
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Interesting you should mention snooker.I think tradition is the operative word, when it comes to snooker cue construction. But even in snooker, stuff is changing.
Lots of players now use maple shafts,there are companies using other ferrule materials than brass, layered tips like Kamui have started to be common, Mezz has launched a line of snooker cues with the posibility to add weights to the shaft. maybe we will see cored snooker cues in the future :)
 
JC said:
Been thinking about the tapered core since this thread started. Why not have a long end mill made and use your router and taper bar after coring the forearm to 5/8 ? It seems like you could play with the speed of the router, feed rate and spindle speed and make that work. Probably only need to gain 40 thousandths or so end to end to make a nice press fit on the core wood. And then why not use yellow carpenter's glue as Canadian Cue said? Should be plenty strong on that type of joint.

JC
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A 14 inch end mill in a router sounds scary to me.
 
cueman said:
Can you share your method for coring with epoxy and eliminating dry spot possibilities? Or the best Urethane glue for coring since Gorilla seems to be getting a bad rap?
Click to expand...


LOL!!! Good one Chris. Gorilla is the best glue to use in this area of construction. Unfortunately, my client list (confidential) is a who's who of cue makers who buy these from us and those who don't also use Gorilla glue with great satisfaction. You have to realize that you are dealing with the AZ know-it-alls here. You're wasting your time but your remarks are quite valid. Have a great day.
 
JC said:
Sure at 30k rpm you would be insane, but how about 1500 or so?

JC
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Still scary b/c it's a 1/4 shank. 1/2 at the most.
I had 2" 1/4 shank snap on me two weeks ago.
I was just milling a glue channel on G10 screw.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Still scary b/c it's a 1/4 shank. 1/2 at the most.
I had 2" 1/4 shank snap on me two weeks ago.
I was just milling a glue channel on G10 screw.
Click to expand...

So how about a steel tool that's not so brittle?

Just thinking, not advising.

JC
 
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