Cue Design--Need A Cuemaker's Opinion(s)

mosconiac

mosconiac

Job+Wife+Child=No Stroke
Silver Member
I've spent some time recently nailing down a cue design. What I would like to know is: are there any practical aspects of the cue design shown below that would cause a cuemaker any heartache?


Specific Needs:
  1. Prefer full-splice (wrapless)
  2. 4 veneers for 4 points (maple/light blue/blue/purple)
  3. 3 veneers for 4 windows (light blue/blue/purple)
  4. All white would be ivory substitute
  5. Short butt cap (~1/2-5/8")
  6. Short Joint (~3/4-1")
  7. Lighter weight (18.5 oz)
  8. Thinner build (1-3/16" dia at butt cap & ~1" dia at base of points)
  9. 29" length
  10. Wood-wood joint
  11. Probably 3/8x10 pin
  12. Wood used would be (very) curly maple & ebony (no grain showing)
EDIT: I would require that all points and corners be sharp (i.e. no rounded points typical of CNC). Sharp boxes, inlays, & points in forearm.


The inlays between each window would be a composite of commonly available inlays. I want to maintain the long profile shown where each dot is at the very tip of each point. Can those inlays be scrunched in between 4 windows as shown?

Is the Haley-style engraving an issue (outsourcing)?

If the cuemaker does not make full-splice cues, would it be inappropriate for the customer to supply the blank?

The rings & butt cap/bumper would match this Ariel Carmeli:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v407/mosconiac/Pool Stuff/006f4.jpg

These are not pics of an actual cue, it's something I mocked up with modest supplies on my old Joss to specifically show what I am envisioning. Yes, I'm a geek. LOL

The ring shown nearest the pin would not exist on the actual forearm....its just shown to illustrate the shortened "joint".

IMG_5117Adjusted.jpg


IMG_5119Adjusted.jpg


IMG_5120Adjusted.jpg
 
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This is the "all bells & whistles" design. It could be trimmed back if the cost got out of control.

I would not be surprised to see it head (shoot?) north of $2000 from a less well-known maker. I probably wouldn't even ask the high-end makers. I would not want to go (significantly) over $2k as I intend it to be my player. I could live without the engraving. I would find it harder to pare back the inlays.

The above does not address shaft cost BTW...which would probably be 314/OB1 pair trimmed to match.

I'm not looking for a quote right now though, I just need to see if I am being unrealistic with anything (like tossing inlays between the windows) before I finalize the design and discuss with potential makers.

BTW, I've added some notes about points & windows to the original post.
 
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Nice design on the cue....and good use of a full splice blank. John Davis might be able to produce this full splice to your spec and then you can send to a cuemaker of your choice for the rest of the cue to be finished. There so many good cuemaker out there...should consider trying out their cue before sending it to the ones you like. All the good cuemakers knows how their cue plays or how they want them to play.

Regards,
Duc.
 
You may have to core the ebony before splicing to achieve the light (18.5 oz) finished weight that you want using an ebony wrapless blank.

I ordered a custom full spliced blank from John D and was quoted 14 weeks for delivery, but we're now on 26 and still counting. Good thing I'm not in a hurry. :)
Good luck with your project.
Mr H
 
full splice

Give me a call I can do all the work in house except the scrimshaw. I might be able to do the engraving myself to just have not done that yet but would give it a try.
Travis Niklich
Blackcreek
618-604-3158
 
Michael Webb said:
I just saw those color veneers, very nice.
Click to expand...
I knew you would like those. :smile: I'd been waffling between the veneer combination in the two JMW's shown below. I saw that sunset I told you about and thought it would be cool if I capture it in a cue but I didn't think it was possible. When I saw your cue, I discovered it was possible.

Mimictheveneersinthisjameswhite2.jpg


jmwpics010.jpg
 
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