Cue Finish ...

WilleeCue

The Barefoot Cuemaker
Silver Member
I have been using a spray on water based poly finish on my pool cues with good results.
Am always looking for something better.
Dont like the health dangers of automotive clear coat and have problems with fisheye.
Tried epoxy but found it hard to apply evenly and polish out.
Super Glue works but application is difficult and the fumes really nasty.

Would any of you be willing to share a spray on product that you use with great results?
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
why do you think you need to spray??? All the water based finishes I have tried yellowed badly over time.....

Kim
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Brite Tone and you can put the sprayer away for good.
Do you have a link to the specific product? I found brite tone chrystalac and there were a bunch of different products. How are the fumes with this one?
 
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whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
Have you looked at Solarez UV finish???......... I have been using it for about 6 years.......... if you want to see my videos.... PM me

Kim
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If your goal is a deep gloss finish that doesn't yellow or crack or chip easily, the reality is that 2K clear is the only real option.If you have the space, why not make a setup that deals with the issues of automotive clear, so you can use that with relative safety?
Chris has drawings of a spray booth in his book, I'm making one somewhat inspired by that design.
 

JoeyInCali

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a Bri Tone sample bottle . Bought it then I heard it gets foggy when hit with alcohol.
I don't know if it's even good for shaft repairs/refinish .
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a Bri Tone sample bottle . Bought it then I heard it gets foggy when hit with alcohol.
I don't know if it's even good for shaft repairs/refinish .
Gets blotchy and foggy if you touch it with denatured alcohol.
Very popular with builders of acoustic guitars, which is an application where it makes much more sense. It's very clear, but not the same depth as a good 2k clear. And it takes forever to cure.
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
If your goal is a deep gloss finish that doesn't yellow or crack or chip easily, the reality is that 2K clear is the only real option.If you have the space, why not make a setup that deals with the issues of automotive clear, so you can use that with relative safety?
Chris has drawings of a spray booth in his book, I'm making one somewhat inspired by that design.
What is a 2K clear?
 

JC

Coos Cues
Gold Member
Brite Tone and you can put the sprayer away for good.
Gets blotchy and foggy if you touch it with denatured alcohol.
Very popular with builders of acoustic guitars, which is an application where it makes much more sense. It's very clear, but not the same depth as a good 2k clear. And it takes forever to cure.
Brite Tone will likely be my choice forever.

I have done visual tests with clear coat cues next to Brite Tone and thus far no one can tell that one is shinier.

The alcohol thing is a little worrisome but I explain to people not to use it to clean the cue and why. No trouble thus far.

Here is a video I made on my finishing frustrations earlier this year. Brite Tone was a big part of my answer, your mileage may vary.

 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
1k clear coat doesn't require a catalyst to harden; this means once this clear coat is applied to the surface, it will dry without any additives. 2k clear coat, unlike the 1k, requires a catalyst for the paint to harden; without the catalyst, the clear coat would never fully dry.

Google used as a teacher. Not always the most accurate, but a good place to start.

Cues that have some type of "2K" finish on them will far outlast and out shine any other finish on the market that I've seen so far in my short career.
There is a reason this type of finish is used in the auto industry. And it's not because it's easier to figure out or less expensive to set up for and use.
 

GBCues

Damn, still .002 TIR!
Gold Member
Silver Member
Brite Tone will likely be my choice forever.

I have done visual tests with clear coat cues next to Brite Tone and thus far no one can tell that one is shinier.

The alcohol thing is a little worrisome but I explain to people not to use it to clean the cue and why. No trouble thus far.

Here is a video I made on my finishing frustrations earlier this year. Brite Tone was a big part of my answer, your mileage may vary.

Nice video John
Thank you
 

JC

Coos Cues
Gold Member
1k clear coat doesn't require a catalyst to harden; this means once this clear coat is applied to the surface, it will dry without any additives. 2k clear coat, unlike the 1k, requires a catalyst for the paint to harden; without the catalyst, the clear coat would never fully dry.

Google used as a teacher. Not always the most accurate, but a good place to start.

Cues that have some type of "2K" finish on them will far outlast and out shine any other finish on the market that I've seen so far in my short career.
There is a reason this type of finish is used in the auto industry. And it's not because it's easier to figure out or less expensive to set up for and use.
I have had Scot Sherbine finish a few of my cues over the last 8 years and I saw one this week that he did for me about three years ago. It was starting to peel at the butt cap upward from the bumper. Just like so many hoods and roofs of cars we see every day with the clear peeling.

It's not the be all end all finish in my opinion.
 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
I have had Scot Sherbine finish a few of my cues over the last 8 years and I saw one this week that he did for me about three years ago. It was starting to peel at the butt cap upward from the bumper. Just like so many hoods and roofs of cars we see every day with the clear peeling.

It's not the be all end all finish in my opinion.
John...
I stand by my personal assessment on a 2 part auto finish. However, I will agree that just because one uses a 2 part finish does not mean it's the end all. Proper prep and sealing pre spraying play a huge part in the longevity of certain products used. The choice of the actual 2K product will also play into the end formula. I've seen some cues that have been sprayed with car coat that look like a 3 grader was attempting to do their science project that they waited 15 minutes before the presentation to start it.
Just because one has a drivers license doesn't mean they know how to "drive."

Mentioning car roofs and hoods peeling really doesn't equate mainly because the vehicles you're looking at probably have never been washed or waxed in their lifetime. Some people are just plain lazy and then want to complain about what a crappy paint job General motors did on their car! :rolleyes:
 

JoeyInCali

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Imagine those cars if they had 1K or water base clear .
But, if you do use 2k finish, do not spray in the shop. Or dry the cues in the shop after spraying unless you have a sealed cabinet .
 
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