Cue tip replacement (how often?)
- Thread starter efirkey
- Start date
When to replace the tip
Typically, I replace my tip when it starts 'slipping', especially on draw shots.
For example, if I need to draw the cue ball on a shot back 4-5 feet, and I only get a foot draw.
This is usually when only 1/32 or 1/16" of a sidewall is left on the tip.
My tips though, usually last somewhere around about 3 years, and I use a layered Hercules H2 tip.
Typically, I replace my tip when it starts 'slipping', especially on draw shots.
For example, if I need to draw the cue ball on a shot back 4-5 feet, and I only get a foot draw.
This is usually when only 1/32 or 1/16" of a sidewall is left on the tip.
My tips though, usually last somewhere around about 3 years, and I use a layered Hercules H2 tip.
I change mine only when it gets REAL thin.
You can try a tip tapper, or whatever you like to rough the tip up and get new life into it. Anther good idea is learning to do your own tips. For a small investment you can try a new tip every day if you like!
Gerry
You can try a tip tapper, or whatever you like to rough the tip up and get new life into it. Anther good idea is learning to do your own tips. For a small investment you can try a new tip every day if you like!
Gerry
Gerry said:I change mine only when it gets REAL thin.
You can try a tip tapper, or whatever you like to rough the tip up and get new life into it. Anther good idea is learning to do your own tips. For a small investment you can try a new tip every day if you like!
Gerry
What are you calling a small investment with a tip and proper burnishing?
nah, I'm talking a ghetto tip replacement setup. I use a variable speed electric drill with a clamp on my work bench and a few cheap tool for shaping the tips. I have maybe $40 invested.
Years ago I had a lathe and did wraps, tips, shaft cleanup etc. but I sold it all a few years ago out of stupidity!
so now I basically do the same thing on the cheap.
Gerry
Years ago I had a lathe and did wraps, tips, shaft cleanup etc. but I sold it all a few years ago out of stupidity!
so now I basically do the same thing on the cheap.Gerry
I'm a guy who would like to try a different tip every week or so, but I can't be satisfied with what anyone other than someone with a lathe can do. I've been satisfied with the performance of most layered tips that I've tried, and I've had more than a few cues with different tips including Moori, Hercules, Talisman, Dynamite, and others. I like Talisman and Dynamite both very much. Mooris are great but too expensive when others are available that perform equally well.
By the way, since layered tips don't need much maintainance, I never scuff 'em, but I replace them at the first sign of different performance, and that can be early on, when they first start to get hard...Tom
By the way, since layered tips don't need much maintainance, I never scuff 'em, but I replace them at the first sign of different performance, and that can be early on, when they first start to get hard...Tom
Gerry,
What cheap tools do you use for shaping your tips? I just use sandpaper while the shaft is turning on the electric drill.
What cheap tools do you use for shaping your tips? I just use sandpaper while the shaft is turning on the electric drill.
ArizonaPete said:
Try the Williard shaper.
I used to replace my tip every few months because I would blame the tip whenever I missed a few shots and shape it. I finally took OHB's advice to shape it once and then let the chalk shape it after that because chalk is an abrasive. I expect this tip to last at least a year, and I'm playing better than ever.
If you start out with a harder tip you can change it when it gets too thin rather than when it gets too hard. One of the important but often overlooked reasons a hard tip is better than a soft one is that the hardness doesn't change much over time. As a softer tip compresses and hardens it changes the way you have to hit the cue ball to get the same results. In a game where consistency is so important this can be a real drawback.efirkey said:
Whether you start with it or end up with it, a harder tip might have to be "textured" more often than a soft one to hold chalk well. This can be done with a "scuffer" (a piece of sandpaper, with or without a special holder), which removes a little leather each time, or with a tapper or Tip Pik, which don't remove leather and therefore help your tips last longer (I like the Tip Pik).
pj
chgo
efirkey said:
you never change a tip that is playing good, if its playing bad its gotta go ASAP there is no formula, some tips last along time others get hard dry up whatever fast, when they are bad take them off, if they are good use them. its very simple.
How many hours a week do you play for your tip to last that long?
I change them right after hating them.
lol ask him how many tips he's gone through in the 16 years since he posted that.
Nice bump
But I’ll say I don’t change till it’s so short I start to miscue , the harder they gets the better I hits
But I’ll say I don’t change till it’s so short I start to miscue , the harder they gets the better I hits
I believe that Snaphot9 (Scott Fraser from Wichita) passed away about 3 years ago. He was last on AZB on Oct 20, 2014.
Dave
do you realize the post you copied to ask the question was from 2007!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and the poster was last seen in 2014!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i just read your post after i posted.
rest in peace scott
I have 3 cues and 6 shafts and rotate playing with all of them and I only play about 4 hours a week.
I can't remember the last time I had a tip replaced.
I can't remember the last time I had a tip replaced.