Cue Tips, Non Layered Vs Layered

Howdy All;

What I find interesting is that when a Solid tip is installed and shaped
there is nothing but leather exposed. When the same process is done
with a layered tip you can see the lines of glue. Now are those lines of
glue even or are they a wee bit lop-sided? Meaning is the tip "Perfectly"
centered or is it off-center? The off-center would IMO not offer a uniform
'hit' depending on where upon the tip you contact the CB. Possible cause
of the "Bug spots" mentioned in an earlier post-eh?


hank
 
Probably 10 years ago I received a Kamui tip as part of a promotion for subscribing to the video coverage of a pool event. Kamui required that the tip be installed by their certified agent, wouldn't just give me a tip. I would never allow anyone other than Roger Pettit to touch my ivory ferrule so I took a disposable shaft to their installer along with the coupon they sent. After the installation I hit maybe a half dozen shots before it popped off and laid on the table. 🤷‍♂️ I see how an amateur installation could sour a person to Kamui.
Once I cleaned and prepared the tip and ferrule properly I reinstalled it successfully. Then I got to give it a valid test. Didn't take long to notice that off center strikes that imparted spin to the cueball could land just right on the glue line and on occasion a spec of glue the size of the contact patch, left the tip to reside on the ball. This was accompanied by a break in traction that resulted in a wayward cueball. Some were more dramatic than others. I actually tried it in competition and the loss of traction cost me money. I examined the cue ball and sure enough the flyspeck matched the bald spot in the glue line. Cut it off and never again. I currently use a waterbuffalo tip which is very hard. It is however consistent, so I know if I miss cue, it's me and not the tip.
 
Vince_Former_BB said:
I find it very hard to raise a nap on a layered tip like the old days of single thickness tips.
Click to expand...
This has happened with my single layer tips. They grind down like wood. I do like how the suede-like surface holds chalk but it doesn't have the crisp hit I like. The tips that don't fluff up hold chalk well enough as long as I'm reasonably diligent.
 
TheBasics said:
Cornerman, Howdy;

Great article. Good thing I can stand my laptop on end to read it. chucklin'
popped up with the pages with their heads to my left.

hank
Click to expand...
:p I was doing the same thing. After Cornerman posted his comment, I realized the trick was to download the file, then whatever software your device uses to show you the pdf file, Preview in my case, will probably have a rotate feature.

Thanks for the interesting article Cornerman.
 
Last edited:
Non layered tip, dry pressed 1mm for 48 hours. No mushroom, no de lamination at the absolute worst times and no high cost.

I probably will never go back to layered tips.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I didn't watch the video. But a cueist on a 12' with different ball sizes, Has to Have a Different perspective than Efren.
 
I have tried many many tips over the years. Most of the layered tips from the original Moori, various Kamui, Sniper, Predator, etc... As well as non layered tips, Lepro, Pressed LePro, Old Champions, Elk Master, etc... They all had their little faults. But, the best tips I have had on any of my cues are just standard tips from Pete Tascarella. Some say he uses LePro, but they are certainly unlike any LePro I have used (and yes I have tried pressed LePro tips as well. His tips are different than just pressing a tip and I don't know what he does to get them the way he does, if they are LePro. They never mushroom, not as hard as a pressed LePro (which have still mushroomed on me), play excellent, and are lasting a loooong time. No worries about seperation like a layered tip either. Would love to know his secret...
 
flyvirginiaguy said:
I have tried many many tips over the years. Most of the layered tips from the original Moori, various Kamui, Sniper, Predator, etc... As well as non layered tips, Lepro, Pressed LePro, Old Champions, Elk Master, etc... They all had their little faults. But, the best tips I have had on any of my cues are just standard tips from Pete Tascarella. Some say he uses LePro, but they are certainly unlike any LePro I have used (and yes I have tried pressed LePro tips as well. His tips are different than just pressing a tip and I don't know what he does to get them the way he does, if they are LePro. They never mushroom, not as hard as a pressed LePro (which have still mushroomed on me), play excellent, and are lasting a loooong time. No worries about seperation like a layered tip either. Would love to know his secret...
Click to expand...
I can make the same comment about the tip that is on my Black Boar ferruleless shaft. I think it is a triangle tip but it has some kind of magical goodness.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk
 
flyvirginiaguy said:
I have tried many many tips over the years. Most of the layered tips from the original Moori, various Kamui, Sniper, Predator, etc... As well as non layered tips, Lepro, Pressed LePro, Old Champions, Elk Master, etc... They all had their little faults. But, the best tips I have had on any of my cues are just standard tips from Pete Tascarella. Some say he uses LePro, but they are certainly unlike any LePro I have used (and yes I have tried pressed LePro tips as well. His tips are different than just pressing a tip and I don't know what he does to get them the way he does, if they are LePro. They never mushroom, not as hard as a pressed LePro (which have still mushroomed on me), play excellent, and are lasting a loooong time. No worries about seperation like a layered tip either. Would love to know his secret...
Click to expand...
I think he pisses on them in a bucket 3' away after 4 - 8 Schlitz beers and leaves them in the bucket
for 80 -90 days. Drains the bucket and leaves them outside for 30 more days regardless of the weather.
After that, he installs them on his cues.
(the guy told me that could be lying, but I trust him on most things).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top