Cuemakers nightmare!

ratcues said:
Maybe I should clarify something. I use 2 ton on my cues and any other types of porous materials. I only use the CA with plastics and sometimes tips. Does that sound better?

When I fist started making Qs, I used Super Glue Gel, to glue my rings. After a few years, some came back to me for repair. The rings had a white line around them. The shock factor, had broken the bond & then fractured through the finish. I use epoxy for everything now, except tips...JER
 
Cue Crazy said:
Might be a good method of DNA authentification If it was one of his cues Instead of repair work:D

Great Idea!!!! From now on before the final sale of my cues I am going to place a little CA inside the butt cap, and have the buyer place his finger in it. Then I will sever his finger tip:eek: , and finally put the bumper in.

That way if the cue is ever stolen at least the original owner can be identified.:D
 
ratcues said:
I have to respectfully disagree with you guys on the CA. We had a company in Omaha test the strengths of glues on different materials and the super glue that we use rated better than epoxy on the plastic.

I guarantee my work. If you break it under normal playing conditions, I'll eat it. :cool:

and how many cues have they made?
Seriously, the problem is that the bond breaks down in a very
short time

Dale
 
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I have a dozen different glues that I use on a daily basis. I have all sorts of epoxies, CA, and others because I work on everything. I have four different viscosities fo CA glue. Gel will not work to hold plastic to wood. If the CA is too thin, it soaks into the wood and there is nothing left to bond the plastic. I do guarantee my work and I rarely have anything come back to me.

Here's the deal. I started this post with a funny story that happened this morning and this is what you have turned it into. I hope you guys are proud. I have more PM's of cuemakers agreeing with me than those of you disagreeing. They just don't want to get in the middle of this. Its just too bad that you guys THINK you know what and how I do things to make such a bold statement that my ringwork or repairs will debond, whetehr it be from shock or time. Its funny really. You do not have to agree with my methods but do not discredit them. I've been rebuilding cues for 11 years. I have cues all over the world. I don't have to prove anything to other cuemakers or repairmen. My work speaks for itself.
 
ratcues said:
I have a dozen different glues that I use on a daily basis. I have all sorts of epoxies, CA, and others because I work on everything. I have four different viscosities fo CA glue. Gel will not work to hold plastic to wood. If the CA is too thin, it soaks into the wood and there is nothing left to bond the plastic. I do guarantee my work and I rarely have anything come back to me.

Here's the deal. I started this post with a funny story that happened this morning and this is what you have turned it into. I hope you guys are proud. I have more PM's of cuemakers agreeing with me than those of you disagreeing. They just don't want to get in the middle of this. Its just too bad that you guys THINK you know what and how I do things to make such a bold statement that my ringwork or repairs will debond, whetehr it be from shock or time. Its funny really. You do not have to agree with my methods but do not discredit them. I've been rebuilding cues for 11 years. I have cues all over the world. I don't have to prove anything to other cuemakers or repairmen. My work speaks for itself.



Well, I can only speak for Myself, but I hope You don't feel I tried to discredit your methods, because I was just stating My preferences, and had no such thing on My mind. That's One reason I mentioned that I could'nt say you were doing anything wrong, because I'm well aware there are many types of CA out there, and some are less brittle, but at the same time, (and note I did'nt mention this before) I have reglued many parts back on cues that looked like CA was used on them, and that's one reason I don't use them. The characteristics are very simular to what Jerry mentioned. For that matter I have seen epoxies that got brittle also, and It's a 2 way street. I Use the 2 ton because It works for me, and does'nt seem too get brittle if mixed properly. Like I mentioned I aggree with you, and if It works for You then stick with It. You already admitted you use epoxy on your cues, so It would seem you know the same thing as us. Are You sure You don't use the CA due to time constraints with repair work, or do you really feel It's better? I'm genuinely curious, and not trying to discredit at all, so I hope you don't take offense.:) My appologies If you took My post the wrong way.


I did find Your post funny, reminds me of and incident recently I had with a roll of micro mesh and a full bottle of ca that I knocked off My bench. To make a long story short, I had a pile of micro-mesh glued to the floor and My hands:D what a mess that was.

Greg
 
I have always used CA on plastics only. I have original Meucci parts at the shop and I can break them apart by squeezing them between my fingers. Meuccis use a type of epoxy that breaks down in time. It has nothing to do with with time saving, I believe the bond is strong.

When I replace the ringwork in a plastic type cue, I cut all of the necessary rings and then scuff them. That's the trick. If the CA has nothing to bite to, then it will not hold.

CA will also hold to wood IF you use the correct viscosity. That's why I paid a company to test everything. They did destructive testing and the plastic broke down before the bond.

The Rat cues do not have any plastic of any kind so I can build them with 2 ton epoxy. I do not even CA the tips on my cues.
 
To each his own. I have learned in in cuemaking there are the old standards but no certainties. Chis in his repair video uses epoxy for joints and butt caps but Brian from unique uses CA. I have tried both and havent had any problems Abs,pvc and the softer plactics i have used do seem to adhear better with CA's. Delrin and linen based materials and the others 5 min epoxy all the way for them. No expert here but thought I would add my 2 cents ;)
 
I think we have all glued our fungers to a tip or two at one time or another and a few ferrules I'm sure:p
 
Cuemakers nightmare

And I thought I had a good line about being glued to Meucci himself. And then the thread get's turned into controversy. How bout some facts for a change. Let's see, super glue doesn't like shock, guess that's why we use it to put on tips. No shock there. Cutting grooves in the material makes the bond stronger. Maybe threading but grooves don't change the total shear area, and that's what counts with epoxy. Epoxy will shear at the same psi no matter how thick it is, actually usually shears earlier if it's too thick. Which is what your groove is doing. How many of you guys are using the 5 minute epoxy. Know why it sets up faster, mercaptan, which absorbs water to generate heat to cause the epoxy to set faster. Much lower shear strength than slow setting. And it always will absorb moisture. Think maybe the superglue melts the plastic which gives it better adheason than epoxy, I do. Too much garage engineering is this business already. OK now I feel better.:p
 
I was in an elevator with Bob at the Windy City open a few years ago. Does that count as "being stuck?"

Enough with the glue talk. Any other funny cuemaking stories? Come on now......I let you laugh at me......
 
Blunder

ratcues said:
I was in an elevator with Bob at the Windy City open a few years ago. Does that count as "being stuck?"

Enough with the glue talk. Any other funny cuemaking stories? Come on now......I let you laugh at me......

I'll take the heat off a fellow Nabraskan;) I was really tired last night after putting my wife's elliptical together...shoot me now. Anyhow, I went out to cut down a house cue to make a sneaky for a guy. I cut it down and set up to take a pass on it with the router. I hit the power feed and stepped away for a second. When I got back I had a nice shaft taper on my sneaky pete to be:( In this case not to be. I had it set up on the shaft taper bar and forgot to change it over. I was tired but hey, maybe shafts that look like house cues will be the next craze!
 
ratcues said:
I have always used CA on plastics only. I have original Meucci parts at the shop and I can break them apart by squeezing them between my fingers. Meuccis use a type of epoxy that breaks down in time. It has nothing to do with with time saving, I believe the bond is strong.

When I replace the ringwork in a plastic type cue, I cut all of the necessary rings and then scuff them. That's the trick. If the CA has nothing to bite to, then it will not hold.

CA will also hold to wood IF you use the correct viscosity. That's why I paid a company to test everything. They did destructive testing and the plastic broke down before the bond.

The Rat cues do not have any plastic of any kind so I can build them with 2 ton epoxy. I do not even CA the tips on my cues.


I can relate to what your saying, and doing alot of them Myself in the past I have seen alot of the issues you mentioned. Most older ones are cracked rings, and the newer ones, alot of times the glue simply breaks down from what I see. The parts of the sleeves come loose from each other easily like you mention sometimes also. I aggree with you on the viscocities too and the scuffing part. Here's a senerio I have seen- plastic to wood, and an undersized tenon that the brittle type epoxy was slopped in to fill the gap between It and the sleeve. Usually the thinner viscocity ca gets better penatration, but wicks up, and does'nt fill gaps well just as you mentioned, The thicker viscosity fills the voids better but not sure about penatrating as well to aquire as good of a bond as the thin, but if not thick enough it could just seep out of the joint before It completely kicks off. Like I mentioned I know there are many types of ca's out there, and have used many different types for this or that at one time or another. I'm just not familiar enough with one that has the best of both worlds, but there are many out there I have'nt tried. It seems that when you have gaps to be filled the glue can break down in the middle, or otherwise put- the bond to the materials does'nt always come loose on one side or the other, but rather the glue comes loose from It'self and breaks in the middle of the gap. A brittle epoxy can be no different then some ca's are depending on what's used, so I'm not saying either is better then the other, I don't dought there may be a ca equal to the 2 ton in the same respect, and may not be as brittle as some I have experienced. I just have'nt found one personally I trust that much yet, and have had good luck with what I use. There are many epoxies I would'nt trust either. Sounds like you have found one you have faith in, so I can't argue that, You know your track record with It better then anyone, the same as I do with mine, and not many people enjoy having to redo the work for free, so I believe you when you say It works. Kind of jealous, wish I had one I had that much faith in.;) :p

I don't use the brittle type plastics that crack either. I do use some composites such as phenolics and ocasionally a multi poly type material, but the 2 ton seems to work well with those anyway. Delrin I only use for joint protectors or tooling type stuff. The only straight up plastics I glue are in repair work. They do seem to come loose alot, no matter if it was ca or epoxy. I feel the real difference is how brittle or easily the glue breaks down over time, and how well the tenons are sized to the sleeves, whichever type glue was used. Properly sized parts seem to stay together better in the first place IMO.

PVC's are held together By sort of a weld, where the glue heats up and melts the 2 pieces together, and Ca heats up, so I can see that taking place when 2 plastics are glued together, but what about the wood? does this make viscosity the biggest issue?


Alright you want a funny shop story, might not be the best, but the best I can come up with on short notice. This has happened a few times, but one time I did'nt catch It. I always mix My epoxy up on My stool, I use small paper plates to mix it up. Well I was glueing some parts up one day, came out of My shop was talking to the little woman (that let me walk outside), walked outside did some stuff out there, then walked over to My parents, sat down, talking to them for a few minutes, they kept chuckling and looking at each other funny, so I'm starting to wonder what I missed, and why I'm the butt of some obvious joke they had going. well, I get up to walk out the door, And My dad says with this big ol smile "before you leave I gotta ask, why do you have that plate stuck on your ass". I reached back and sure enough I sat in that epoxy:eek: :D , the 2 of them just busted out laughing. when i was outside there was tons of people walking back and forth. I can only imagine what was going through there minds when they saw this guy walking around with that plate stuck to his hind end like that. the only thing that was missing was Kick Me written on it:p
 
cuesmith said:
In the first place, you're using the wrong type of adhesive for the job. The only place on a cue I use super glue (or glues of that type) are for installing tips. Epoxy is much better for most of the construction phases and doesn't give you these problems.

just more hot air!

Sherm

Totally agree.
 
There seems to be some common ground everyone brings up when talking about CA glues. Tolerance. If you miss tolerance, no glue will hold. I make sure everything is a tight fit and that there is glue on every surface INCLUDING inside plastic ferrule and the ringwork.

I guess I didn't think this was going to be such a big deal. I don't mind someone who disagrees with my methods. Everyone has their way. I get upset when someone says that "so and so's way is wrong. Here's the right way." There is no "right way." I know for a fact that my method works for me. That's all that matters. It may not work for you. Neither way is right nor wrong.

I would also like to apologize, in public, to Sherm. I sent a nasty PM because I was upset with what this thread turned into. I shouldn't have and I hope he can forgive me. It was out of character for me.
 
ratcues said:
I was in an elevator with Bob at the Windy City open a few years ago. Does that count as "being stuck?"

Enough with the glue talk. Any other funny cuemaking stories? Come on now......I let you laugh at me......
I have glued my fingers together a time or two myself. I used to put my shaft cleaner in a hairspray bottle when working tournaments. I used to get asked why I was spraying hairspray on the shafts. I would usually answer that I was making the shaft stiffer. I wonder how many people took me seriously and went home and tried it? If any did, I bet they wound up with some funny feeling shafts. :)
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
when crazy glue first came out, my brother somehow managed to glue his bird finger to his thumb and his other hand to his elbow. the only thing i can think of that would make this picture any funnier is to attach a muecci.
M.C.
 
Cuemakers nightmare

I'm surprised there was room in the elevator for both of you. Bob and his hot air take up a lot of room. I like Chris's story about hiar spray for shafts. Ted Harris used to call the stuff he used, mule p--s. Wonder if anyone tried it. Bet it smells worse than Nelsonite. It was actually Golden Rapid Pad, before they changed the formula and now just call it
Rapid Pad. Right now I'm using a product called CueKote. On the pricey side and full of some nasty chemicals, but works pretty good for me.
Not paying attention last week and a shaft actually slipped thru my fingers, of course it hit the concrete right on the edge of the shaft collar.
Of well, I just love finishing shafts. I have used superglue to tighten up loose threads on a repair shaft. Carefully pour alittle thin in and swirl it around then pour out the excess. Make sure it's fully cured before screwing the shaft on your mainenance pin. I have an example sitting in the corner. Stainless steel maintenance pin and the remains of a shaft.
I can not get them apart. I'm talking really stuck. On a serious note, the quality of super glue is not all the same. Don't know the sceince behind it, but some can be purer than others. That may have to do with it turning white with age. I use Balsa USA thick for putting on tips and have been very happy with it.
 
Years ago I glued my finger to my mustache. The fumes are nasty and I have to cut myself away with an exacto knife. I've also had tip fly off under pressure and stick to my arm and my cheek. Never a dull day in the shop for me.
 
ratcues said:
Years ago I glued my finger to my mustache. The fumes are nasty and I have to cut myself away with an exacto knife. I've also had tip fly off under pressure and stick to my arm and my cheek. Never a dull day in the shop for me.
Did you get it loose or have to cut off the stache?
 
cueman said:
Did you get it loose or have to cut off the stache?

I little of both. It was right under my nostril so I could not use a debonder.

I had another problem with that same Muecci yesterday afternoon. I was cutting the collar down to size and with the machine off, I spun the chuck by hand, something I've done a thousand times, to help clear the chips. A jaw came around and hit my thumb into my carbide cutter. I haven't bled like that in a while. :o

Metal vs flesh......metal wins!
 
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