But, would you ever use SUPER GLUE TO SEAL purpleheart after EVERY TURN ?
Sealing isn't going to hurt anything ? Let's say someone has a shop that maintains 75 degrees and 45% . 24 hours a day. It's just a theory but, there has to be someone who does that . Someone in Alaska or Manila. What good is sealing purpleheart and bocote for him with SUPER GLUE?
I sure hope he's breathing supplied air.
You're over generalizing what I said. I never advocated the use of CA for sealing. I merely stated that sealing doesn't hurt anything. And really, what does it hurt? It slows, not stops, the rate of exchange of moisture. Wood that's not sealed is more able to "breathe" and be affected by temperature and humidity swings. In your 75 deg. 45% humidity shop, wood will equalize at 8.4% moisture content. If this stays at a constant, as you say, then it doesn't matter whether you seal the wood after a cut or not. It'll be 8.4% regardless. The equalized moisture content doesn't change by removing material. At the same time, sealing won't help anything, either. Movement at this point is due to internal stress, not moisture loss. But though it doesn't help, it doesn't hurt, either. It's moot.
This is where builders would do themselves a huge service by studying & understanding wood for the material that it is. Many attribute movement to moisture exchange, when that is only a factor early on while the wood is drying. Most movement is due to internal stress. In extreme temperature swings, wood takes on a plastic like personality. It will become more pliable as it heats up, and stiffer as it cools. It also relaxes as it heats & contracts as it cools. It's not a conductor so it's not stable like a metal. It's more like a plastic. Furthermore, each species is completely different and pieces within a particular species can even vary tremendously. There's a bit to learn, but it's well worth the effort to educate yourself on the subject. Then you understand the "why" when things happen, so it's not just blind speculation. Understanding the "why" allows one to make appropriate adjustments. Or as I have found, it allows one to realize there's often times nothing at all you can do. Stressed wood moves, regardless of how careful you are or how much you seal it. Cues left in the trunk of a car will warp and there's nothing you can do about it. Cues built in the PI where they are equalized at 23% moisture, and shipped to AZ where they re-equalize to 3.5%, you can bet on movement and rings/inlay popping, etc. Builders must know wood. Simple as that.
Take it one step further. You have that 75*x45% shop and you buy a load of shafts that are kiln dried to 6%. They soon equalize to 8.4% in your shop, then you ship a finished cue to Tucson. No matter how well you seal that shaft, are you confident that it won't warp as it re-equalizes to the new climate? Keeping your shop stable is fine in a perfect world where the cue will always be kept in the same stable environment. But in the real world, pool players do what they do & cues warp. Nothing we can do will prevent it. Sealing won't help, only slow it down. Instead of warping within days, it does it within weeks. Depending on how well the player cares for the cue, it may take years. But it WILL happen if there's even the slightest hint of internal stress. Most pieces of wood have some level of stress, some obviously more than others. Very few shafts make it decades without moving, and it's not the builder's fault if they don't, or his credit if they do. It's the character of wood. This is stuff cue makers must learn, and stuff buyers must accept. It's an inevitable plausibility.
