Dipping shaft dowel?

Cuemaster98

Cuemaster98

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Hi Guys,

I've recently purchased a large batch of shaft dowels from various sources...just wondering if they should be dipped in Nelsonite or Resolute at this stage?

I remember talking to Pete Tascarella about dipping wood with Nelsonite and he tells me if you dip them into Nelsonite that it will soak to the cored of the wood. He mentioned that he tested this by cutting the wood in half and you can see that it soak right through. So, when shaft are dip into stabilizer like nelsonite, etc....will the quality of the hit change? For better or worse? Should the shaft dowel be soak only when it in final size? Or should it be soak once now and left to dry?

Thanks,
Duc.
 
Cuemaster98 said:
Hi Guys,

I've recently purchased a large batch of shaft dowels from various sources...just wondering if they should be dipped in Nelsonite or Resolute at this stage?

I remember talking to Pete Tascarella about dipping wood with Nelsonite and he tells me if you dip them into Nelsonite that it will soak to the cored of the wood. He mentioned that he tested this by cutting the wood in half and you can see that it soak right through. So, when shaft are dip into stabilizer like nelsonite, etc....will the quality of the hit change? For better or worse? Should the shaft dowel be soak only when it in final size? Or should it be soak once now and left to dry?

Thanks,
Duc.
Click to expand...

I've never soaked a shaft in anything, but tender lovin' care...JER
 
Nelsonite seems to soften the shaftwod up a little bit. I quit using it, not to mention the terrible smell!.....................Dave
 
Resolute/ Nelsonite

Tap, tap, tap. When you have truly good shaftwood, that stuff is, thank God, not necessary...at least in our climate. Sorry Duc, no disrespect intended.

Martin


BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I've never soaked a shaft in anything, but tender lovin' care...JER
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Guys, I was planning to dip some for test but I think I will pass. The smell on this chemical is really toxic. Plus I think the diamond shaft wood from eric and shafts wood from Joel won't need dipping.

Regards,
Duc.
 
acryloid b72

this compound is used to restore old masters oil paintings. if a painting has a crack, its soaked in b72 when the paint softens the sides of the crack can be pushed down to close the crack. when the b72 cures it hardens without leaving any color. this compound is used on paintings that are worth thousands and thousands of dollars so imo its not going to harm a shaft. i have made a vacuum chamber and i process a lot of my shafts in b72. when placed under a vacuum the b72 is forced into the air pockets of the wood, when it cures it seals the shaft. side by side a treated shaft and a non treated shaft look the same. only drawback is its a pain to use. it looks like broken plexiglass and i have not found an easy way to crush all the small pieces into a powder so it can be desolved in tulane.
 
Nelsonite is the nuts. It displaces moisture, and does what it's supposed to: STABILIZES the wood. Dip once about 30 to 50 thousandths from finish. I could see where you would have a problem in a poorly ventilated shop, it is pretty nasty stuff.
 
Sheldon said:
Nelsonite is the nuts. It displaces moisture, and does what it's supposed to: STABILIZES the wood. Dip once about 30 to 50 thousandths from finish. I could see where you would have a problem in a poorly ventilated shop, it is pretty nasty stuff.
Click to expand...
I have been using Resolute from Cue components, and it does well, and hardly any odor. I have cut/sanded some shaft wood that was treated in Nelsonite a yr before, and even today, they stink up my shop.
Dave
 
I am now using Resolute also. I am not sure how much solids it has in it but it does penetrate just like Nelsonite and has the same smell, but not nearly as strong.
 
Resolute and/or Nelsonite

Hello Gentlemen....

As many of you are aware, we switched from selling Nelsonite and are now selling Resolute. The Resolute performs as Nelsonite does but with much less odor. Leading cue makers throughout the USA are using it. We've sold hundreds of 5 gallon pails and constantly receive thanks for selling this product. The odor is so much better than Nelsonite. In fact, Nelsonite gives me a headache, neckache and an overall sick feeling. The Resolute was a welcomed relief.

Treating shafts with tender loving care and if you reside in a dry climate is all good and well but cues and their shafts do have a tendency of leaving their respective areas of construction. Some cue owners tend to abuse their cues as opposed to treating them with the same tender loving care that the builder used to build the cue. This is the reason Resolute is used and in many cases necessary.

We built cues in Vegas which was absolutely wonderful for building cues. However, we experimented with and without Nelsonite and Resolute by shipping shafts to Florida. We then had a friend in Florida return them after a few weeks. Yes, we exposed them to extremes. The Nelsonite/Resolute shafts held up whereas the untreated shafts did not fare as well. Some of the untreated shafts were sealed with a wood sealer and some were not. In both cases, they did not do well whereas the Resolute/Nelsonite shafts did.

Moisture, humidity and dryness are not prejudice and all three penetrate "good shaftwood" the very same as it penetrates bad shaft wood or any wood. The quality of the wood makes no difference. You can have a $300 piece of Snakewood, a $150 piece of Amboyna, a $3 piece of Purpleheart, a million dollar shaft or a $3 shaft and they are all prone to attack. Moisture, humidity and dryness do not differentiate. The "climate" also has no bearing unless the cues are forever staying in that climate which in most instances is highly unlikely.

Additionally, our client list reads like a Who's Who among cue builders and I can state with a degree of certainty that the vast majority of well know cue builders (upper echelon), middle of the road cue builders and many newbies are all using Resolute or Nelsonite. It's been tried and proven that it does help and work to stabilize woods; including good shaft wood and all woods.

There are many different opinions on this subject and I can respect the varying degrees of those opinions. I am a strong proponent of 'if whatever you're doing is working for you, then just keep doing it that way'. However, preventative steps such as using a stabilizer does (IMHO) help in securing a sound and stable built cue.
 
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