Do most "Pro's" use joint protectors?

I am probably wrong, but I think I disagree :P

I had a set of joint protectors included when I picked up my mcdermott. I asked what the purpose was and they said everything that has been mentioned here....keep crap out of the joint, protect the pin and collar, blah blah blah. I really didn't see the purpose, but I figured, who cares, they are free and I care about my (little) investment.

A buddy of mine bought a similar cue 3/8x10 wood/wood joint. He never used joint protectors and his cue got harder and harder to assemble and dissassemble to the point where it would take two (weak) people to break his cue down every night.

I took it into a shop and we had to tap the joint. For those unfamiliar with this, we took a really sharp screw 3/8x10 and re-drilled the shaft because there was allegedly so much crap in the shaft joint that the cue was nearly impossible to put together or take apart.

Needless to say, I picked up a cheap set of JP for him and he has had no problems since.

Are they worth it? my limited experience says at least with McDermott wood/wood joints they are.
 
For me, this thread falls under the "I was wondering but was afraid to ask" questions.

Obviously, I have too much time on my hands if these types of things are a concern to me. I need a hobby!
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
They're completely useless.


I completely agree....but some customers are willing to spend an extra $75 to make an extra long case just so they can use their $20 joint protectors. Its crazy out there in pool land.:)
 
Fatboy said:
if you have a ivory joint you need them if you travel with the cue they can chip,

also they keep the threads on the joint pin shiny and if your storing a old expensive cue.

I have some fancy JP's that match cues

otherwise they are a pain.

They were originally called "shipping plugs" but later someone coined the name "joint protectors". If you have to ship your cue, I guess they are OK but otherwise I consider them useless if you using a hard case.....pin up..tip down.
 
Jack Justis said:
I completely agree....but some customers are willing to spend an extra $75 to make an extra long case just so they can use their $20 joint protectors. Its crazy out there in pool land.:)


Yes, a Jack Justis case should be sufficient.
 
They are purely cosmetic to me, but I like them none the less. All of you that have all those junk ones sitting in your drawers, send them to me ;) . HaHaHA.
 
Like justis said. Good for shipping, id hate to get a new cue and not be able to put it together. But after that useless. I take long enough getting set up as it is, i dont need another hassle. And when the cues get broken down they goes straight in the case which has always been enough protection for me.

BTW pin up, tip up, in 3 years with this case ive got no hole or even a sign of one. regular case
 
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Jack Justis said:
They were originally called "shipping plugs" but later someone coined the name "joint protectors". If you have to ship your cue, I guess they are OK but otherwise I consider them useless if you using a hard case.....pin up..tip down.


I use pin up, tip up. Saves the tubes in the case from getting chalk residue on them. Any reason why tip down is better?
 
If you were to drop a shaft, it would protect the finish on the edge of your ringwork. Or, if you have an older cowboy case, it won't allow the pin to slam back and forth. Plus, if they are made for the cue, they are cool.
 
I only use them for my 3C cue, and that only so I can more easily get it out of my case (being shorter). Mostly a waste of time. I guess I could see it protecting the leather on the case from the pin.

In my talisman case, there is a fair amount of room between the top of the case and the cues, but I just put a small towel over the top of them. It secures everything so it doesn't bounce around and I can wipe them down before putting it away.
 
Stuff happens...........

SCCues said:
I use joint protectors, especially on the butt of my cue. I like to protect the joint pin and it keeps the pin from denting the top of my cue case (especially a Whitten case).

James

Me too exactly James.

I've often wondered how many cues have been dropped and dinged while dicking around trying to find/put the JP's on. Too often I find myself precariously holding the butt of the cue under my arm while digging for the JP. Kind of like, "How many people have car accidents while putting on their seat belts?":confused:
 
Jigger said:
I've often wondered how many cues have been dropped and dinged while dicking around trying to find/put the JP's on.

I was about to post with this same thought in mind. I feel like my cues are more likely to get damaged fartin' around with the joint protectors than they would if I just removed the cues from my case and screwed them together (likewise in reverse for when the day's shooting is done).

Maniac
 
I use mine on my playing cues and never really gave it much thought. I mean, the 10 seconds it takes to take them off and put them back on doesn't really detract from my day all that much. Are they needed? Probably not if you're using a hard case, but they look nice.
MULLY
will always use them
 
I like themes with my cues. I try to match JP's, cases, wraps, etc. with the cue (see shark setup in the attachment...shark inlays, opposing teeth JP's, and a sharkskin case). Doesn't make 'em play any better and I really don't know about how much protection they offer, but let's face it, we could all drive Ford Focuses if all we needed was a functional ride...:cool:
 

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I really agree with hejests about using them for Uni-Loc. To echo his points, not only is it very quick to put them on and remove them from Uni-Loc, but I've seen problems with Uni-Loc pins getting stuck when dirty. So at least if not using JPs on Uni-Loc, remember to clean the pins occasionally. But, Uni-Loc pins seem a little more likely to be easily bent, given their design.

Necessary or not, I use them for most of the same reasons already stated in this thread.
 
AuntyDan said:
Several years ago I saw Ralph Souquet unpacking his cues at the Mosconi Cup and he actually had little black plastic covers on the tips of his shafts!

I use the jp's to protect the pin and the edges of the joint on the butt and the shaft. I also use black plastic covers over the tips.
 
tsw_521 said:
I use pin up, tip up. Saves the tubes in the case from getting chalk residue on them. Any reason why tip down is better?

Yeah, if you put collar down and the case is accidently dropped it could possibly cause collar damage....if you put tip down....so what if you drop the case. Your normally hitting something much harder than the floor. JMO. For the players that don't want to chalk up the liners, wipe the chalk off first.
 
Jack Justis said:
I completely agree....but some customers are willing to spend an extra $75 to make an extra long case just so they can use their $20 joint protectors. Its crazy out there in pool land.:)
I think most people buy them because they see a benefit to them along with cosmetics.I know that it will keep the threads clean which is good when you have a wood to wood cue.People buy things because they got money burning holes in there pocket and want to.I know I dont need a custom cue and play just as well with a $100 production cue but I have it.The same can be said about cases, people dont need a $1000 case to protect their cue when they can get enough protection for $50,its about looks,brand and quality,certainly not being in need.If you made a case that was waterproof and air tight for $2000 someone might actually buy it just in case there is a flash flood at the poolhall. :D
 
Hunter said:
I like themes with my cues. I try to match JP's, cases, wraps, etc. with the cue (see shark setup in the attachment...shark inlays, opposing teeth JP's, and a sharkskin case). Doesn't make 'em play any better and I really don't know about how much protection they offer, but let's face it, we could all drive Ford Focuses if all we needed was a functional ride...:cool:
Nice cue and it looks so familiar to me also for a strange reason,I dont forget a face or a cue. :cool:
 
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