Do tip scuffers work?

Druid

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm curious, how many people use a Tip "Scuffer"? I really haven't found much use for one, even though they are commonly sold.

When I shape my cue tip, I use something like the Its George tool to do the shaping. And then I just use a Tip Pik to put some small holes into the surface. I used to use a tip-tapper but I stopped doing that a while ago since it didn't seem to work that well to me. The combination of the shaper with Tip Pik seems to do the trick. However, maybe I'm missing out or wasn't taught something along the road.

I own a couple different tappers and scuffers; Tried 'em and forgot 'em.
Do you use them? What's the process you use for your weekly Tip maintenance?

(By the way, I'm playing with a Moori Soft)
 
I use a Willard's nickel shaper. It's actually more of a scuffer/reshaper. It works great. I buy a new one every so often to keep a sharp one handy. It keeps a perfect shape on the tip while scuffing it just enough to hold chalk well. One thing I don't like about most scuffers is they fuzz the tip up too much, too abrasive. The Willards doesn't. It's just about perfect. I use it as needed, usually once before I begin play for the day.
 
I have 2 tip pics, 2 tappers, 3 williards nickel shapers/scuffers, 2 ultimate shapers, the cube, the Androx shaper, tip burnisher/tapper and rail height measure thingy, and a couple of shapers/scuffers that have 'Jacoby cues' on the back side. I don't know why I have so many, seems like the players just keep forgetting these little things. I also have about 10 sets of useless keys and maybe 20 some sun glasses and reading glasses.

When I do maintence (a least once a week, maybe more when I play more) I just use the Williard a few times to touch up the tip and keep it rounded.
 
220 Sand Paper will work and not "F" up your iip. Williards work wonderful to shape tips, and if you use a Willard FREQUENTLY your repairman will love you because FREQUENT USE IMHO Wears out tips.
 
I have a Willard's Nickel Shaper and I highly recomend it...........Also use the Brad Scuffer..........a very light scuff works wonders IMO
 
Druid said:
I'm curious, ...I use something like the Its George tool to do the shaping. And then I just use a Tip Pik to put some small holes into the surface...
Your question: do they work? yes
Your post~ you don't have use for it...that would be because you have found something else to do what it does.

Methinks your title is off target.
 
CocoboloCowboy said:
220 Sand Paper will work and not "F" up your iip. Williards work wonderful to shape tips, and if you use a Willard FREQUENTLY your repairman will love you because FREQUENT USE IMHO Wears out tips.

Of course QBilder is his own repairman.....:grinning-moose: :grinning-moose: :grinning-moose:
 
qbilder said:
I use a Willard's nickel shaper. It's actually more of a scuffer/reshaper. It works great. I buy a new one every so often to keep a sharp one handy. It keeps a perfect shape on the tip while scuffing it just enough to hold chalk well. One thing I don't like about most scuffers is they fuzz the tip up too much, too abrasive. The Willards doesn't. It's just about perfect. I use it as needed, usually once before I begin play for the day.


Love the Willards.

My only addition is that mine have lasted virtually for ever. I still have and use one that is about 20 years old , I bought a new one not too long ago and honestly it's not vry much sharper than my original. 2 minutes with a fine brass brush and the old one is about as good as new.

I do however , think the newer ones are made slightly different now although they still work just as well.

That's all I have ever carried or needed for the job.
 
Druid said:
I'm curious, how many people use a Tip "Scuffer"? I really haven't found much use for one, even though they are commonly sold.

When I shape my cue tip, I use something like the Its George tool to do the shaping. And then I just use a Tip Pik to put some small holes into the surface. I used to use a tip-tapper but I stopped doing that a while ago since it didn't seem to work that well to me. The combination of the shaper with Tip Pik seems to do the trick. However, maybe I'm missing out or wasn't taught something along the road.

I own a couple different tappers and scuffers; Tried 'em and forgot 'em.
Do you use them? What's the process you use for your weekly Tip maintenance?

(By the way, I'm playing with a Moori Soft)

The metal Sandman Tip Shaper is all you will need, and last forever. Now if I can find a link for it in America.......
http://www.seyberts.com/products/Sandman_Tip_Tool-58-24.html
I have been using it for 18 years personally!
no-sho
 
Shapers will work, but they grind away at the tip. I have one of the first tip-tappers that came out and says patent pending on it. I don't tap my tip with it, but roll it and twist it just a bit at the same time. It just loosens up the top a bit, without grinding any of the tip away. I personally, didn't like the tip pic, but thats just me.
 
qbilder said:
I use a Willard's nickel shaper. It's actually more of a scuffer/reshaper. It works great. I buy a new one every so often to keep a sharp one handy. It keeps a perfect shape on the tip while scuffing it just enough to hold chalk well. One thing I don't like about most scuffers is they fuzz the tip up too much, too abrasive. The Willards doesn't. It's just about perfect. I use it as needed, usually once before I begin play for the day.

I have used the Ultimate Tool, but only the sanding part of it, the scuffer is not that great in my opinion.

Since the Willard does not require replacement parts like the Ultimate Tip Tool, I changed recently. My experience is similar to yours: The Willard is great for roughing up the surface. Using it by hand is sufficient and will not grind the tip down prematurely.

With the Willard at hand, I see no use for a scuffer. Besides, my tip (Talisman Pro Med) does not need that much maintenance.

Furthermore, Tappers are reported to destroy the layers of laminated tips. This won't happen with a Willard or Ultimate Tool.

Regards,

Detlev
 
Detlev Rackow said:
I have used the Ultimate Tool, but only the sanding part of it, the scuffer is not that great in my opinion.

The Ultimate Tool IMHO is like a Swiss Army Knife, as it does many thing, non well.
 
The mistake that I often see made is the method in which the tools are used. For this example lets use the Brad Scuffer or a piece of 220 Sand paper, hold the scuffer in one hand and roll the cue tip along the scuffer and it will lift the leather without deforming the tip the mistake I see many make is holding the cue and swiping the scuffer over the tip.
 
Druid said:
When I shape my cue tip, I use something like the Its George tool to do the shaping. And then I just use a Tip Pik to put some small holes into the surface.

I think you're doing the right thing for the right reasons. "Scuffers" remove leather, which is unnecessary and wasteful. "Tappers" don't give as much texture as the Tip Pik.

By the way, it isn't the holes themselves that matter; it's the little ragged edges around them (raised when you pull the Pik out) that give your tip the texture it needs to hold chalk.

I've heard of some players misusing the Tip Pik by pressing the points into the leather and then twisting. Don't do this - all you need to do is tap your tip several times with the points.

pj
chgo
 
Breaking the glaze

Tips can glaze over. When they do I like to roll a texture into the surface, a brad shaper works great for me. Anything that dimples the surface of the tip works. If the tip needs shaping then it is time to cut a little away. Otherwise all the digging, tearing, and cutting on your tip is doing is making money for the people who sell and install tips. I see people damage the structural integrity of their tip and then complain it mushrooms. Ice splits rock the same way that chalk mushrooms leather when you make deep holes and gouges in it, no wonder that leather can't hold up to this abuse.

Hu
 
Ice splits rock the same way that chalk mushrooms leather when you make deep holes and gouges in it

Ice splits rock because it expands when it freezes (after it seeps into deep crevices). Assuming chalk can get into the holes that a Tip Pik makes (which are very shallow and probably mostly close up as soon as the points are removed), how does it then cause mushrooming?

It isn't the holes that help the tip hold chalk; it's the tiny rough edges pulled up by the Pik as it's removed.

pj
chgo
 
I use the Ultimate Tip Tool for any shaping I do at home and have a Brad scuffer handy also. The Brad is at least 20 years old. Normally, I play every day or every other day and work on tips about once a month. As long as they hold their shape, my tips don't need much work.
 
wedges

Ice wedges the stone apart because splits are angled. Chalk in an angled hole does the same thing if the hole is deep enough like the holes some of the sharp pointed tools make. Chalk particles measure as small as .0005 to .0015(yes I just, measured some) The holes are closer to ten times that at the top leaving plenty of room for the chalk to get packed and wedged into the holes.

Keep wedging something very hard that doesn't compress or compact past a certain point into something that can give, I'll let you figure out what happens.

Hu

Patrick Johnson said:
Ice splits rock because it expands when it freezes (after it seeps into deep crevices). Assuming chalk can get into the holes that a Tip Pik makes (which are very shallow and probably mostly close up as soon as the points are removed), how does it then cause mushrooming?

It isn't the holes that help the tip hold chalk; it's the tiny rough edges pulled up by the Pik as it's removed.

pj
chgo
 
Lots of gimmics out there. I use a Willlards shaper and a 4 inch curved sander with sandpaper. Neilson's Billiards on EBay sell a steel curved shaper ( The Sandman) with the permanent grit like a Willards. Plus they come with a leather burnishing pad.
Very cheap at $16 so gonna give that a try.
Tip picks are usefull for installing a tip but can rip a layer off a layered tip if you're not careful.
 
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