George the Greek
Well-known member
I'm cheap lol and retired and it gives me something to doHand cleaning is ok but once you use an automatic cleaner you'll never pick up a cloth again
I'm cheap lol and retired and it gives me something to doHand cleaning is ok but once you use an automatic cleaner you'll never pick up a cloth again
Unless you are interested in trick shots, silicone on pool balls is a very bad idea.Off to get some Aramith Billiard Ball Cleaner and Aramith Billiard Ball Restorer . . . . . .
While on the topic of YouTube videos, Jasmine Ouschan has suggested using silicone spray on the cue ball (see that at 11:47) in a video on improving one’s draw shot:
The silicone makes the cue ball very slippery. That has two major effects. The cue ball loses much less draw on the way to the object ball. Then the draw will take more slowly, creating huge, beautiful arcs.Unless you are interested in trick shots, silicone on pool balls is a very bad idea.
Why use anything other than what is made by the ball manufacturer? If one spends money on nice balls its easy to tie up well over $1K in a few sets of balls.Sorry I don't buy that. I've been doing it for years with Aramith phenolic balls with zero issues. If that's happening then they're extremely crappy balls or there was acid left over in the bucket before cleaning. Lol.
with all that's known about properly cleaning balls why do people keep doing this shit???I followed Pappy Mike's YouTube instructions to clean pool balls with clothes detergent and the green side of a 3-M Scotchbright sponge. I polished them with a cloth towel but they are dull looking. Most comments to Pappy's YouTube website, I now found, condemn Pappy's method. How do I get the shine back? How bad is this?
See Pappy Mike's bad instructions at:
A comment to Pappy was to polish the balls with automotive polishing compound.
Anr AZer recounted bad luck with abrasive Comet cleaner (I and Pappy Mike didn't do that) and a Scotchbrite pad:
An AZer recommended shining pool balls using non-silicone compounds:
An AZer found some polishes too slippery:
I don't understand it.with all that's known about properly cleaning balls why do people keep doing this shit???
why do people keep doing this shit???
I don't understand it.
I do the same. One bottle of Aramith cleaner has lasted 4 years so far-I use the Aramith cleaner and works well for me. I put a dab on the ball, rub it all over with my fingers and you can feel the grit on the ball. I then place it in a micro fiber towel and a little pressure with the thumbs rotate the ball. I then use a clean micro fiber towel to polish and they turn out clean and shiny. All in all it doesn't take long.
, but I read something online that said to soak the balls in lukewarm water and add a mild detergent, like Palmolive. I happened to have some Palmolive, so I put the balls in a bucket of warm water, then I added a bunch of Palmolive liquid. I let the balls soak for about 5 minutes, then I selected a ball, and I swished a very soft brush against the ball for no longer than 5 seconds, then I rinsed the ball in cold water, then I dried the ball, and I set the ball aside and I moved on to the next ball. The whole rack looks like that.
If Scotch Brite pads had no abrasive why not just use a microfiber towel??? I think all Scotch Brite is at least somewhat abrasive as are Magic Erasers. Brown seems to be the most aggressive, I use it stainless before welding. There is also green, grey, red, blue, and I'm not sure if there are more but thats what I have seen so far. Scotch Brite is aggressive enough to scuff automotive glass, ask me how I know.The only abrasive that gets near my pool balls is chalk. Not real thrilled about that. Polishes and rubbing compounds particularly for cars, usually include abrasives. Car paint is somewhat sacrificial unless it stays out of the sun or well protected. Of course most of us that drive a car have to contend with bugs and stuff off of the road surface too.
The best advice I have read is to use stuff designed for pool balls. If not, use stuff designed for similar surfaces.
Scotchbrite used to make seven or nine different pads, I haven't checked in a long time. Green has a pretty harsh abrasive. Blue had no abrasive, seems to still be true. Somebody will have to do their homework to find out about the other pads. I like to use pads that have been used a bit for other things before I use them for finer work, a lot like knocking the first edge off of sandpaper.
Hu
I was able to get the balls shiny with just the Ball Restorer, but the Cleaner added another level of luster to the shine.
If Scotch Brite pads had no abrasive why not just use a microfiber towel??? I think all Scotch Brite is at least somewhat abrasive as are Magic Erasers. Brown seems to be the most aggressive, I use it stainless before welding. There is also green, grey, red, blue, and I'm not sure if there are more but thats what I have seen so far. Scotch Brite is aggressive enough to scuff automotive glass, ask me how I know.
There is never a need, under any circumstance, to use soap (of any kind) and water to clean pool balls. There are purpose made products for cleaning phenolic pool balls as well as plastics in general that are affordable and readily available. "Pappy Mike" should refrain from giving advice on subjects he is ignorant about.7Stud had a much rougher time with dish soap and a very soft brush versus my cleaning using clothes detergent and 3M scrubber. A sort of dullness resulted for me, but for him? The balls looked more cloudy than solid colors and whites. 7Stud made an almost magical improvement to the 8-ball (below) using Aramith billiard ball restorer and then Aramith ball cleaner. Interesting . . . . .
7Stud's 8-ball after dish soap and very soft brush VERSUS: That same ball after the Aramith combo of restorer and cleaner:
View attachment 777057 View attachment 777058
See 7Stud's post at