Don't do this!

Craig Fales said:
Realistically those shaft are toast. I can only imagine the cost to repair wouldn't warrant it.
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I'm like the doctor that never calls "time of death." The total cost was $140 but that included changing the pin and it is still straight so I repolished it and will remove that charge.....so $95.

I don't know what or if I can make any real difference in the damage done to the wood fibers but that should not have a huge impact on playability.
 
Only two items are ever needed to fix ANYTING.


Duct tape and WD40.


If it moves and you don't want it to, duct tape it until it doesn't move.

If it does't move and you want it to, WD40 it until it moves.


:D
 
poolhustler said:
Only two items are ever needed to fix ANYTING.


Duct tape and WD40.


If it moves and you don't want it to, duct tape it until it doesn't move.

If it does't move and you want it to, WD40 it until it moves.


:D
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Did you stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night? cause you sure are smart!:thumbup: lol
 
ftgokie said:
Did you stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night? cause you sure are smart!:thumbup: lol
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Off topic...

Dude, taht "chick" in your avatar looks like a drag queen. :sorry:


Eric >it's a man, baby
 
Lady of the Evening

iowa_player said:
Is that a man or woman in your avatar ?
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That avatar was Spitzers "date"

Back to the topic of the thread. Never use a vise when u can break out the vice grips!!!
 
Eric. said:
Off topic...

Dude, taht "chick" in your avatar looks like a drag queen. :sorry:


Eric >it's a man, baby
Click to expand...

My wife uses this id also...hers has not been activated yet (after 6 months) that is a picture of her Last Halloween
 
ratcues said:
I'm like the doctor that never calls "time of death." The total cost was $140 but that included changing the pin and it is still straight so I repolished it and will remove that charge.....so $95.

I don't know what or if I can make any real difference in the damage done to the wood fibers but that should not have a huge impact on playability.
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The cosmetic damage is what gets me with these. I could see maybe cutting the damage right off and coring in a new piece. You'd have solid maple but on the joint end it wouldn't be so bad.
 
Craig Fales said:
The cosmetic damage is what gets me with these. I could see maybe cutting the damage right off and coring in a new piece. You'd have solid maple but on the joint end it wouldn't be so bad.
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That would have an adverse affect on the playability of the shaft. Even if I try to remove some of the damage by sanding, that will affect the shaft. Its a no win if you want it to look better. The SP shaft isn't too bad. It just has the vise marks. The other black/silver shaft is in bad shape. If it wasn't for the discoloration of the chalk, I would be able to make it prettier but the dents are deep.
 
Ryan,

I'm not sure what your familiarity is with galvanic corrosion but I'd guess that might be whats going on here. I'd have to know actual alloys used in the pin and insert to give a better answer. Without their anodic index I'm not commiting to anything. I'm not buying slight brass "dust" as you're saying as the sole cause though.

-J
 
It's hard to tell how deep the marks are. I was thinking that they are so deep that it's beyond sanding and perhaps would just have to do something more drastic. IMHO.
 
James said:
Ryan,

I'm not sure what your familiarity is with galvanic corrosion but I'd guess that might be whats going on here. I'd have to know actual alloys used in the pin and insert to give a better answer. Without their anodic index I'm not commiting to anything. I'm not buying slight brass "dust" as you're saying as the sole cause though.

-J
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I have a pic of what came out of the insert and I will post it tomorrow. I've done about 50 or so of these and have actaully seen the brass foil and had to peel it off of the pin. Its as if it welds the insert to the pin.
 
Craig Fales said:
It's hard to tell how deep the marks are. I was thinking that they are so deep that it's beyond sanding and perhaps would just have to do something more drastic. IMHO.
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I agree. If the shaft was mine, I'd toss it and buy another. The customer is not expecting me to work any miracle, just to make them playable again.....but I have to try to put the lipstick on the pig.:scratchhead:
 
ratcues said:
I have a pic of what came out of the insert and I will post it tomorrow. I've done about 50 or so of these and have actaully seen the brass foil and had to peel it off of the pin. Its as if it welds the insert to the pin.
Click to expand...

I'm not arguing your findings, just maybe the cause. FWIW, I'm a design engineer and my firm specializes in fluid controls. A standard consideration in a new design is the reaction between materials in the given environment. Galvanic corrosion would result in the "weld" type bond you're describing. In any case, your best bet is to keep it clean as you suggested (Or have a more suitable combination of materials)

-J
 
Ahhhh the helpless cue shaft...innocent as a new born, but always blamed for failures...

Me: "My name is Sam Waltz and I'm a recovering cue abuser".
Group: "HI SAM"!

My 12 step program is going well though! We are always accepting new members. The first step is to admit you have a problem!

Please be good to your wood! :)
 
so how did the 314 with the collar get all scratched up? What was the player thinking when he put it in a vice? Any pics after the repair?
 
HeLLFiSH said:
so how did the 314 with the collar get all scratched up? What was the player thinking when he put it in a vice? Any pics after the repair?
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The shaft with the collar had an aluminum pin broke off inside. I have no clue as to what was going on there. I core it out, replaced the phenolic core and collars, and will probably do the new insert today. I'll try to get more pics as I go.
 
Good god.

Now correct me if I am wrong. But it looks like the gentleman did this on 2 shafts??? You would think once would have been enough.
He could have at least used those rubber straps for the job. At least there would have been no damage to the wood.
At least he didn't soak the cue in WD40 first. :D :D
 
ratcues said:
No, the act of screwing a steel pin into a brass insert creates the brass dust found in this insert. The JPs would keep outside dust out but do nothing to prevent this.

I'd also like to add that this is not a problem with Predator's or Uniloc's workmanship, rather a problem that occurs when a player does not maintain his/her equiptment. I used to see this issue at least twice a month, with all types of cues using the Uniloc system.
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That would suggest to me that the Uniloc system is not a good system for most pool players. Most don't even wipe down their shafts after use, there is no way the kind of maintenance you described earlier is going to occur.
 
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