Drilling shaft for ld conversion??

[Eagleshot]

Are there any cue makers that can drill out a regular shaft to enhance ld characteristics?

I'm curious if anyone has had this done.

Did it reduce squirt?
Did it kill the "feel" of the shaft?

I don't know what is involved after drilling. I'm sure a tenon has to be reintroduced and probably some other issues.

Any insights are welcome.

 

[macguy]

Are there any cue makers that can drill out a regular shaft to enhance ld characteristics?

I'm curious if anyone has had this done.

Did it reduce squirt?
Did it kill the "feel" of the shaft?

I don't know what is involved after drilling. I'm sure a tenon has to be reintroduced and probably some other issues.

Any insights are welcome.

I did it to my own shaft. Then I put in a small wood plug and a thin short sleeve ferrule 5/8 long. I tend to think it did improve the shaft a bit.

 

[MitchAlsup]

Are there any cue makers that can drill out a regular shaft to enhance ld characteristics?

I'm curious if anyone has had this done.

Did it reduce squirt?
Did it kill the "feel" of the shaft?

I don't know what is involved after drilling. I'm sure a tenon has to be reintroduced and probably some other issues.

Drill in a little over 6 inches, leaving a 45 degree cone at the bottom.
Countersink the top 3/4" by a few tousandths for the tennon.
<Some fill the interrior space with expanding foam.>
Glue and insert tennon, allow to dry.
<re>Face the end of the cue and mount favorite tip.

It does all of the above, and this is how the first of their breed was done.
Also note, tapering a normal shaft down into the 10.5"" range reduces squirt a similar amount.
<thin> Light-weight ferrules also help.

 

[Pushout]

LD is more about taper and ferrule material and length.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mitchxout]

LD is not mostly about taper and ferrule material and length.

I fixed it for you. :thumbup:

 

[Pushout]

I fixed it for you. :thumbup:

You fixed it wrong It's all about that, exactly.

 

[Jaden]

Yes...

Are there any cue makers that can drill out a regular shaft to enhance ld characteristics?

I'm curious if anyone has had this done.

Did it reduce squirt? Yes
Did it kill the "feel" of the shaft? Not the way I did it.

I don't know what is involved after drilling. I'm sure a tenon has to be reintroduced and probably some other issues.

Any insights are welcome.

Yes, I can convert any shaft to a low deflection shaft. You will lose up to a half inch of the shaft length to convert it. I do it in a way that it will still feel like a normal shaft. Where are you located as I travel extensively and it's possible that you can hit with one that was converted to see if you like it.

Jaden

p.s. I see that you are located in philly. I don't know when I might be there. Possibly in January.

 

[Eagleshot]

Results

Below is my synopsis regarding the conversion:

Sent regular shaft to "Reputable Cue Maker" who will remain nameless unless He wants the credit.

Shipping

- Shaft arrived quickly in perfect shape, packaging was great.

Fit and Finish

- Everything was perfect, Tip was dime shaped, No rough area at wood to ferrule connection

Pre-conversion specs:

- 13 mm tip / ferrule
- 6" 13.1 mm
- 10" 13.4 mm
- 15" 14.9 mm

- 7" bridge length BHE
- 4.16 oz

Post-conversion specs:

Shaft was drilled, foam used, tenon installed and ferrule replaced

- 12.2 mm tip / ferrule
- 6" 12.5 mm
- 10" 12.8 mm
- 15" 13 mm

- 11 1/2" bridge length BHE
- 3.84 oz

Feel

- Very close to the original shaft - no hollow feeling - much better then other ld shafts i have experience with ( Predator 314 / 314-2, Tiger X Ultra ld, Players HXT and OB-1 although it has been 6 years since I played with an OB )
- The new taper is wonderful.

- the squirt ( to me ) seams similar to a 314 - 2

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Yes. There is a cue maker from Evansville Ind that used to post here.

I had a couple or 3 of his cues at one time. I had 2 30" shafts with no ferrules.

He would bore out the ends and fill them. I have the procedure in a text file but on a different computer. But off hand, I can't remember exactly how he did them.

They played pretty decent.

 

[KMRUNOUT]

You fixed it wrong It's all about that, exactly.

Lol...its pretty common knowledge these days that it is all about endmass...the mass of the last 6" approx. of the shaft. So ferrule material matters a little bit in so much as lighter material will yield a reduction in cueball squirt in proportion to the *difference* in mass between the 2 ferrules relative to the overall mass of the last 6" or so. This is going to be a relatively small % even if the mass of the two ferrules is quite different.

It has been studied, discussed, and essentially established that the taper in and of itself (excluding the differences in mass resulting from a larger or smaller shaft diameter) has almost no effect on cueball squirt.

You are free to adhere yourself to any misconceptions you wish, of course. Has anyone made a shaft that is *actually* low squirt (as opposed to simply *called* low squirt) that is 12.75 mm or more and *solid* maple? I'd like to hear about that. My guess and all evidence so far points to "not".

If you have some evidence to support your claim, which runs counter to the current research on this subject, it would be great if you could share that.

KMRUNOUT

 

[bdcues]

Lol...its pretty common knowledge these days that it is all about endmass...the mass of the last 6" approx. of the shaft. So ferrule material matters a little bit in so much as lighter material will yield a reduction in cueball squirt in proportion to the *difference* in mass between the 2 ferrules relative to the overall mass of the last 6" or so. This is going to be a relatively small % even if the mass of the two ferrules is quite different.

It has been studied, discussed, and essentially established that the taper in and of itself (excluding the differences in mass resulting from a larger or smaller shaft diameter) has almost no effect on cueball squirt.

You are free to adhere yourself to any misconceptions you wish, of course. Has anyone made a shaft that is *actually* low squirt (as opposed to simply *called* low squirt) that is 12.75 mm or more and *solid* maple? I'd like to hear about that. My guess and all evidence so far points to "not".

If you have some evidence to support your claim, which runs counter to the current research on this subject, it would be great if you could share that.

KMRUNOUT

Just a question. If only the last few inches of the shaft make a difference than why do shafts perform different on different butts?

 

[boyersj]

Yes. There is a cue maker from Evansville Ind that used to post here.

I had a couple or 3 of his cues at one time. I had 2 30" shafts with no ferrules.

He would bore out the ends and fill them. I have the procedure in a text file but on a different computer. But off hand, I can't remember exactly how he did them.

They played pretty decent.

That cue maker was Will Adcock. He has sold much of his equipment and to the best of my ability quit doing any cue work or even posting. I know he has a new job that consumes much of his time.

Anyhow since my partner Robert Darling and myself have been doing repair work in Evansville - we were asked to duplicate this shaft. Will was contacted for specifics on how to make the shaft. It has no ferrule, but does have a fiber pad, so there is no need to add a tenon. The 6" drill used is a 1/4" and it is not filled. Be very careful when drilling because quite a bit of heat is created. Chip removal is very important.

Steve

 

[Jaden]

If you have an 11.5" pivot point...

Below is my synopsis regarding the conversion:

Sent regular shaft to "Reputable Cue Maker" who will remain nameless unless He wants the credit.

Shipping

- Shaft arrived quickly in perfect shape, packaging was great.

Fit and Finish

- Everything was perfect, Tip was dime shaped, No rough area at wood to ferrule connection

Pre-conversion specs:

- 13 mm tip / ferrule
- 6" 13.1 mm
- 10" 13.4 mm
- 15" 14.9 mm

- 7" bridge length BHE
- 4.16 oz

Post-conversion specs:

Shaft was drilled, foam used, tenon installed and ferrule replaced

- 12.2 mm tip / ferrule
- 6" 12.5 mm
- 10" 12.8 mm
- 15" 13 mm

- 11 1/2" bridge length BHE
- 3.84 oz

Feel

- Very close to the original shaft - no hollow feeling - much better then other ld shafts i have experience with ( Predator 314 / 314-2, Tiger X Ultra ld, Players HXT and OB-1 although it has been 6 years since I played with an OB )
- The new taper is wonderful.

- the squirt ( to me ) seams similar to a 314 - 2

If it now has an 11.5" pivot point, that's not very LD...

Most LD shafts that are truly LD have a pivot point at about 15" In fact, the point of having LD is so you don't HAVE to use BHE and have the additional movement that is necessary for it.

Jaden

 

[Cornerman]

Are there any cue makers that can drill out a regular shaft to enhance ld characteristics?

I'm curious if anyone has had this done.

Did it reduce squirt?
Did it kill the "feel" of the shaft?

I don't know what is involved after drilling. I'm sure a tenon has to be reintroduced and probably some other issues.

Any insights are welcome.

The answer is yes to everything except killing the feel.

Freddie <~~~ cue user, not maker