Dust control on lathe..

[Newton]

I hate getting my machines dirty and had been wondering on a design to keep
the bed free of the dust. Not to mention saving my self for the some of the hazard
we expose us for.

Well, as you can see, the design is not working 100% with the router running - I
most likely need to make a special version of the coring version (the round one).
Have not tried it with my cutting tool but I think this should be working better since the
live tool (router) is not blowing the dust..

Be safe - and good cue making

 

[Newton]

Results - not optimum

As you can see - not dust free but stay tuned for the Mk II version :wink:

K

 

[olsonsview]

Looks very good

I like the narrow width.

 

[cuejo]

That's pretty innovative!
Cool idea

 

[Newton]

Coring dust collector

It´s very frustrating to core when you use air to cool the stuff.
Chips fly all over so I made this for coring. ID of the opening is larger than needed but some form
of brush (those fluffy hairy things - don't know the english word for it) would be
mounted on the transparent side where the coring drill goes in.
Should stop some of the mess...

These dust shoes are fixated where we normally have the steady rest which
we never use - fixated on the carriage... So it's simple to make - just go and
chops some MDF and plaxi parts and you should have one your self.
MDF=hazardous dust!

Note for longer coring - I would make a "steady rest" version of this which is fixated on the bed (neck to neck with the steadyrest)
so the carriage could be moved away so the full length of the coring drill could be used..

Be safe...

K

 

[Paul Dayton]

Your pm box is full

 

[Cue Crazy]

I really like your Idea. Looks like something to work with there. I haven't even begun to think about anything for coring, as I've only recently built My first full cored cue.

This was My first attempt a building an actual dust box instead of just using a bracket to hold a open hose end like I did for years.. It was originally intending for hogging squares to round, so I did not have tapering or coring in mind at the time, and was in a rush to use it, so I just built around the router, although I wish I had put more thought into that. It's big and bulky, but really cuts down on the dust. Due to the square holes, I do still get some fine stuff that comes through, so I need to even find something to seal It with, brushes that will fit or something, make new side plates with round holes, or both. I've just been using masking tape to fill in the gaps and that made a big difference. Actually there's a few changes to it that I need to make or remake. It's not suited for tapering due to being in the way of the roller bearing,and limited clearance, so I would like to make something different up for that. Seeing your prototypes gives me a few ideas, although I would have to go about It a little differently due to differences in the machine. I like the thinner profile though. I wonder if the smaller intake tube will increase suction, and how much effect that would have. That's the problem I see with a router. In my box it sucks most of It up, I mean it really cuts down on the saw dust pile created, but you can see the router kicking It around inside the fixture before the suction is able to get a hold of It.

A couple of things that did turn out well for mine was the fixed design of the router mount makes removing and reattaching a router quick and easy. No fooling around with lining It up like with My old bracket. Also the whole dust box mounts to the T-slot on the carriage, so It all comes off as one unit. The router bracket It's self can be removed to and used without the box attached fairly easily. Like I mentioned though there were some disadvantageous too. It's definitely a huge improvement, but I'd like to try and make something a little more compact that will work as well, and improve upon what I learned by making a few other design changes. It would be much easier If I plunge cut because there would be more room for the chute, with the router in the way though, It really limits me on space up top to mount It. maybe a smaller chute would be an improvement, although a whole different design is coming to mind now. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Newton]

Your pm box is full

Cleard Paul

K

 

[Newton]

Greg,

I did a similar setup for my CNC for tappering, but the first design was no good.
On that setup I ended up having a vaccume cleaners angled dust head (beefy industrial version)
with a portion of the fluffy hairs removed where the mill passed through.
However, even with that setup some stuff came free to land on the CNCs bed.

On my lathe I have a large ultra sharp end mill with a cuting edge gooing from the
endmills OD to the center (two sides-opposite direction).
This has worked fine so I don't need the vertical setup with side cutters as you ( I use that on my CNC with KJs blade setup).
Makes more space for me to work on and the wood finnish is almost pollished-at least on the species tested so far.
I only tapper butts on the lathe and use a boringhead on the tailstock-saves me tapper bar , saves space and makes my DRO scales untouced.
Might build a tapper arrangement if I find time for it.
Cool to see your setup:wink:

Edit: Forgot to mention Greg- I have a industrial vaccume cleaners using - if I remember correct 38mm hoses.
Has 3 motors and has a pull which is simply stunning. The manual stated "keep away from eyes etc" and the air flow was
in the 162L/s range-0,03micron Hepa filter. If I remember the eq correct V1*A1=V2*A2 where V is speed and A is area of a port - speed increases when area goes down (of inlet). Might be wrong-some years since Uni..
My second shop vac in the background of one of the pics (green one) has a cyclon in it's design - using same size of hoses as you-but vaccume.

K

 

[Cue Crazy]

I started out plunge cutting, but with a router bit, and My results were mixed, so I eventually went to the side cutting, and the results were very smooth, enough so that I really don't have to do much if any sanding before sealing, with the exception of metal parts.

I have since experimented on My milling machine with squaring point blanks by using the bottom of a larger end mill, and It cuts really smooth. I haven't tried using one in My router for tapering yet, but given that, It may would give better results then what I originally had using the router bit on the plunge.

I really Like what You have going on with your designs here. I assume You cut the profile out on the CNC? Turned out nice, very clean looking. That's an added option that I wish I had, but I'm going to have to save My pennies before I can afford one. learning to make good use Of It is going to be a whole other challenge for me though.

 

[scdiveteam]

I really like your Idea. Looks like something to work with there. I haven't even begun to think about anything for coring, as I've only recently built My first full cored cue.

This was My first attempt a building an actual dust box instead of just using a bracket to hold a open hose end like I did for years.. It was originally intending for hogging squares to round, so I did not have tapering or coring in mind at the time, and was in a rush to use it, so I just built around the router, although I wish I had put more thought into that. It's big and bulky, but really cuts down on the dust. Due to the square holes, I do still get some fine stuff that comes through, so I need to even find something to seal It with, brushes that will fit or something, make new side plates with round holes, or both. I've just been using masking tape to fill in the gaps and that made a big difference. Actually there's a few changes to it that I need to make or remake. It's not suited for tapering due to being in the way of the roller bearing,and limited clearance, so I would like to make something different up for that. Seeing your prototypes gives me a few ideas, although I would have to go about It a little differently due to differences in the machine. I like the thinner profile though. I wonder if the smaller intake tube will increase suction, and how much effect that would have. That's the problem I see with a router. In my box it sucks most of It up, I mean it really cuts down on the saw dust pile created, but you can see the router kicking It around inside the fixture before the suction is able to get a hold of It.

A couple of things that did turn out well for mine was the fixed design of the router mount makes removing and reattaching a router quick and easy. No fooling around with lining It up like with My old bracket. Also the whole dust box mounts to the T-slot on the carriage, so It all comes off as one unit. The router bracket It's self can be removed to and used without the box attached fairly easily. Like I mentioned though there were some disadvantageous too. It's definitely a huge improvement, but I'd like to try and make something a little more compact that will work as well, and improve upon what I learned by making a few other design changes. It would be much easier If I plunge cut because there would be more room for the chute, with the router in the way though, It really limits me on space up top to mount It. maybe a smaller chute would be an improvement, although a whole different design is coming to mind now. Thanks for sharing.

Greg,

That looks like something off the space shuttle. Very cool indeed.

Rick

 

[conetip]

Greg,

That looks like something off the space shuttle. Very cool indeed.

Rick

That's why they ground the space shuttle fleet. Greg would not sell them the critical parts needed.

 

[JerseyBill]

router box dust collector

I really like your Idea. Looks like something to work with there. I haven't even begun to think about anything for coring, as I've only recently built My first full cored cue.

This was My first attempt a building an actual dust box instead of just using a bracket to hold a open hose end like I did for years.. It was originally intending for hogging squares to round, so I did not have tapering or coring in mind at the time, and was in a rush to use it, so I just built around the router, although I wish I had put more thought into that. It's big and bulky, but really cuts down on the dust. Due to the square holes, I do still get some fine stuff that comes through, so I need to even find something to seal It with, brushes that will fit or something, make new side plates with round holes, or both. I've just been using masking tape to fill in the gaps and that made a big difference. Actually there's a few changes to it that I need to make or remake. It's not suited for tapering due to being in the way of the roller bearing,and limited clearance, so I would like to make something different up for that. Seeing your prototypes gives me a few ideas, although I would have to go about It a little differently due to differences in the machine. I like the thinner profile though. I wonder if the smaller intake tube will increase suction, and how much effect that would have. That's the problem I see with a router. In my box it sucks most of It up, I mean it really cuts down on the saw dust pile created, but you can see the router kicking It around inside the fixture before the suction is able to get a hold of It.

A couple of things that did turn out well for mine was the fixed design of the router mount makes removing and reattaching a router quick and easy. No fooling around with lining It up like with My old bracket. Also the whole dust box mounts to the T-slot on the carriage, so It all comes off as one unit. The router bracket It's self can be removed to and used without the box attached fairly easily. Like I mentioned though there were some disadvantageous too. It's definitely a huge improvement, but I'd like to try and make something a little more compact that will work as well, and improve upon what I learned by making a few other design changes. It would be much easier If I plunge cut because there would be more room for the chute, with the router in the way though, It really limits me on space up top to mount It. maybe a smaller chute would be an improvement, although a whole different design is coming to mind now. Thanks for sharing.

This is really a nice job!!!!!!!! selling???

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Those are both pretty innovative. Greg, yours looks like store bought. Good stuff. I am always a big fan of people that can build their own jigs like this.

I have one of those mini collectors, with a bag and its on wheels. So far, I have been holding the hose close but its a pain in the buttski.

I found that the router shoots the dust out to the right. 60% hits the garbage can so I just let her fly. The rest I vacuum.

I know one thing, I will never sand Ebony again without a collection system.
The entire shop was black including the walls. I looked like a coal miner.

 

[Newton]

.....I know one thing, I will never sand Ebony again without a collection system.
The entire shop was black including the walls. I looked like a coal miner.

I had the exact same thing turning african black wood.... Which started my thoughts on some form of dust control.
Certainly worth trying both for your health and machines:thumbup2:

K

 

[scdiveteam]

Hi,

Hell with dust collectors. When your done turning just get a McDonalds straw out and snort all the dust up and away.:help::speechless::nono:

No seriously, thanks to both of you guys for sharing this as I know that you both have inspired other CMs to make there own super cool discrete systems for their set ups. These two fine customs systems show ingenuity and are a quantum leap for the old bleach bottle and a hose trick. They both look to be in the 95% + effeciencey range.

Thanks for sharing guys, I am sure you have done a lot to make other people think and create better environments concerning health.

Tap Tap Tap,


Rick G

 

[carguy]

dust catchers

I agree with Rick. I was pretty proud of my plastic bottle-hunk of plexi-block of wood-hose clamp setup...it works OK, but after seeing these two beautiful setups I feel real cave man....I gotta do better! These really are inspirational.
Good job!!
Robin

 

[Cue Crazy]

It's hardly NASA grade LOL, but Thank You to Everyone for the kind words. I wouldn't put It at 95% in the current state, but when properly finished and sealed I would think It may achieve close to that.

This was just something that I build from left over aluminum I had from other milling projects. I just got tired of the huge pile of chips that accumulated to the right of the lathe on My bench. As can be seen in the pictures I make enough of a mess on my own, without adding that to the mix. It makes cleaning up even harder when the chips get piled on top of all My other junk, and I have to separate the trash from good stuff This did help with that, It greatly reduced the pile, but like I mentioned I do have a few changes to make to better seal things up. I'm still looking for the perfect bristles to seal the sides against the wood, and I could have made the adjustment slot for the router mount a little shorter. I get a small amount of leakage at the bottom of that, Although It easily seals with a piece of masking tape. All I have to work with is a seig mini Mill, but It was enough to do what I needed. I did have to pull some clamping tricks to get some of the angles that needed milled, and due to My lack of proper tooling, for some of the tasks I had to improvise, and use some tooling in a manor that It was not intended for. I guess I had the will at the time so found a way with what I had. The only things I bought were the dust chute, and flex hose. Everything else I had on hand at the time. Even the little knock offs that hold the sides on were made from delrin and threaded rod, although the knockoff that holds the router on was premade, and one I had on hand. I think It was purchased at ace, but It can easily be made by hand as well.

This was just My first attempt at making one, and I still want to try and revise a few things, so no plans on selling. At least not of yet. When I'm able to improve upon It, and make It more affordable, I may consider that though. In It's current state It's really only good for hogging to round. The intake tube is so large that It makes the whole unit deeper in length, and does not leave enough clearance for turning thinner rounds like shafts, so that's something that I would have to work on. I'd like to have one that I can taper with to, but as It is now, this just does clear the taper bars enough to make squares round. If I built one for plunge cuts as opposed side cutting then that may give me the extra room for the chute, and leave enough clearance for tapering and the bearing to fit in there. I'll keep working on the design when I get the opportunities to between other things though.

In the mean time, Here's another picture with a breakdown of a few of the first parts I milled out, in case It's of any use to someone wanting to try It for their self. I think this the last picture I have on file.

Thanks again for the kind words, Greg

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

I use a set up similar to this when gundrilling. Keeps the dust to absolute minimum.

 

[Newton]

I use a set up similar to this when gundrilling. Keeps the dust to absolute minimum.

That was actuall my first test run as well Did not like the fact that it was not fixed so thats why I made the one the pic.
It's fun to see - thinking the same.
Keep the pics comming