east indian rosewood
- Thread starter Dave38
- Start date
all the rose woods are oily i wipe with laquer thinner before sealer
dave
i use the thinner but i am very careful if theres anything that can be stained wipe away from the ringwork carefuly
i use the thinner but i am very careful if theres anything that can be stained wipe away from the ringwork carefuly
also if you ever use blackwood its a rosewood also and hard to finish over
That's why I use Harbor Freight latex gloves, on sale they're around $4 a box for 100 count. I already noticed that the maple forearm is also oily, so, as Lee suggested, I'll be wiping from joint to butt cap. The cue is made from a Shmelke full splice blank and the ring work is a pearlized polyester material from Masecraft, and some chemicals can do really bad things to materials like that, not to mention the epoxy holding it together. I have lacquer thinner, but have melted some plastics in the past, so I would rather use something alittle milder. I appreciate all the responses guys, When it's ready, I'll post pics in the cue gallery. BTW, which is better to use: a lacquer based sealer, or a waterbased sealer? Any opinions welcomemasonh said:
Dave
qbilder said:
That's what I've been using recently too. I can use It inbetween sandings as well, and It doesn't burn into the sealer or finish. The down fall is probably the white haze it leaves after drying, but I found a piece of magic eraser cleans the haze off fairly easily. I save all my used up pieces of Magic E's also, and use them to clean out loaded up sand paper. Works pretty well for that up until the paper starts to cake up.
To answer the thread poster's question. As mentioned rosewoods in general are oily woods. Most East Indian rosewood I've worked wasn't too bad though. Seemed less oily then some others to me, but that could just be My experiences, and others could be different. I'm not sure all of it is like that, just what I've had My hands on. Coco is another story, I have battled with the oils lifting to the surface with It before. Made a big mistake on one of My first cues, I tried skipping the sealer, and sprayed a spar urethane straight over coco, and the oils prevented It from drying, Causing It to stay tacky for well over a month, before It was dry enough to sand off.
As others have mentioned though, with Any rosewood, You would want to clean & seal off well, before finish. They all have oils, just seems some types have more then others.
Greg
I tried a shellac sanding sealer today. It says it is guarrenteed to be compatable with all types of finishes. I believe it's by Bullseye, but I got it at Rockys (Ace) Hardware. It seemed to work fine. I also thought that I bought some denatured alcohol, wiped it down then put on the sealer. It was then that I realized I grabbed the wrong can and actually bought Acetone instead.
It didn't seem to do anything bad, but I won't use it again for cues just to avoid any oop's. That stuff can melt plastics easily. Thanks for all the responses, have a great weekend.
Dave
It didn't seem to do anything bad, but I won't use it again for cues just to avoid any oop's. That stuff can melt plastics easily. Thanks for all the responses, have a great weekend.Dave
WheatCues
Banned
Dave38 said:
I built WPBA's Jessica Barnes matching cue set out of East Indian Rosewood, and all I did was apply a moderate coat of Minwax sanding sealer first, and then sprayed the urethane on as usual...
The wood in question had no variance in behavior and finished up quite nicely!
If you have any questions call me anytime ! 321-631-1827
Hope this helps !
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
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Thanks, I appreciate the help. The reason I had asked about it, was I wiped the dust after final sanding, then noticed the cue was 'shiny', but hadn't put anything on it yet. I have put on a sealer, and will sand it down sometime this weekend, and hopefully spray the finish also.WheatCues said:
Dave
Does anyone use cyno (super glue) as a seal coat before spraying finish? Just curious. Chris.
WheatCues
Banned
Chris Byrne said:
I wouldn't recommend it... after hearing of other cuemakers utilizing that concept, I had to try it myself and had very undersireable results...
The glue reacts to water so when you wetsand it will turn white and unfortunately it has an opaque finish to it to begin with, and it takes a hell of alot to cover a butt....
If you want to use a sealer other than "sanding sealer" then I would suggest a hard epoxy that seals and dries clear and does not flex or yellow out, this is widely practiced and I have used several times on very pourous woods where sanding sealer just wasn't doing the job....
All of my advice I give is from experience so I would never dare tell you try anything that would be unsatisfactory....
- Eddie Wheat
WheatCues said:
I dont know what kind of cryno you are using but I have never seen cryno turn white due to wet sanding.. This usualy happens due to a chemical reaction between the auto clear and the ca.. But even that is rare. And as for how much ca it takes to clear a cue an experenced person can do it with about 1/3 of a 2oz bottle..