Ebony full splice

spliced

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Hi,

I'm looking to have an ebony full splice with veneers into birdseye maple made. It's just my favorite look. I want the handle and points to be all ebony. I have been told by a few different cuemakers that it would just be too heavy, and a maple handle needs to be added to decrease the weight, and to make it balance right-ala. Joel Hercek and John Davis. But I have seen plenty of ebony sneakies with phenolic joints around that balance fine and sometimes weigh less than 19oz!
I'm sure when Rambow used an ebony titlist blank he didn't cut out the handle or core it.

Are most cuemakers just uneasy about working with such a large piece of ebony?

Would coring be the best idea as to reduce chances of warpage as well as to reduce weight?

Is a heavy metal joint necessary to balance it out?

Would it be easier to balance if you made the butt shorter than the shaft?

Thanks
Ian
 
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What you are finding out is that very few cue makers, make their own full splice veneered blanks. You are correct that you should be able to get an ebony one that can come in around 19oz. Don't forget that both Hercek and Davis add another splice and change wood under the wrap.
 
fullsplicefiend said:
Hi,

I'm looking to have an ebony full splice with veneers into birdseye maple made. It's just my favorite look. I want the handle and points to be all ebony. I have been told by a few different cuemakers that it would just be too heavy, and a maple handle needs to be added to decrease the weight, and to make it balance right-ala. Joel Hercek and John Davis. But I have seen plenty of ebony sneakies with phenolic joints around that balance fine and sometimes weigh less than 19oz!
I'm sure when Rambow used an ebony titlist blank he didn't cut out the handle or core it.

Are most cuemakers just uneasy about working with such a large piece of ebony?

Would coring be the best idea as to reduce chances of warpage as well as to reduce weight?

Is a heavy metal joint necessary to balance it out?

Would it be easier to balance if you made the butt shorter than the shaft?

Thanks
Ian
Click to expand...

Like Steve said finding a maker that makes full splices with veneers is tough. If I were to make it (which I won't because I am on walkabout right now and don't know when I'll come back) I would core a section of the ebony for weight/ballance/stability.
 
It's kind of like asking for a hammer made of wood, but you want it to be exactly like your favorite steel hammer. You have a VERY heavy wood, making up the largest portion of the butt. How can you possibly not have a butt heavy Q. The answer is to bore out the heavy wood & replace it with a lighter wood. This way you achieve a good balance , without compromising the structure of the Q...JER
 
Hi,

We will probably have a full splice model with ebony into birdeye maple by this fall or end of the year...we are working on a technique that will lighten up the cue but at the same time extend the points. We will be testing to see if this technique will improve the weight distribution without coring...if possible. If not, we will have to core the ebony and BEM full length. The price for this blanks will $299.99 - $399.99 depending if we need to core the blank. We will most likely have only 100 made initially to test the market response. Check back with us in fall at www.customcuesandtips.com .....We have already sold out on our SE model @ $129.99 which is a short splice version of the full splice. Will post pics once sample are ready.

Regards,
Duc.
 
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A quote from Joel Hercek's website:
"A full-spliced blank made with heavy woods like ebony or cocobolo would produce a rather heavy cue. To address this problem, Burton developed a variation of the full splice: the double-spliced blank. This technique consists of splicing the ebony or cocobolo prong section of the cue into a lighter piece of maple for the handle with a V-splice. Thus the maple nose is finger-spliced into the ebony prong, which is then V-spliced to the maple handle, resulting in a lighter cue."

edit: If the maple handle mentioned above is replaced with a maple-cored ebony handle that might work towards your goal.
 
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why don't you just call John davis and he will make you one with Ebony in front or back or both for $400 with whatever color veneers you want.you answered your own question.you can search here for his contact info.i bought one with an Ebony front and Tulipwood back with 4 veneers that was double(i would call it triple though)spliced onto maple.it is one of the best playing cues if not the best i have ever owned in my life out of 350-400 cues.top 3 easy.it weighs 18.75 and it is balanced perfectly with a slightly forward balance point and no weight bolt.what more could you ask for.the blank was $400 and Alex Brick charged me $450 to turn it down(they are very oversized)put a leather wrap and brass pin and finish it.also came with one of his super premium shafts.total invested is $850 and i have a beautiful full splice cue with Ebony that weighs under 19oz and plays better than most any cue you will ever pick up.don't listen to the naysayers.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
You have a VERY heavy wood, making up the largest portion of the butt. How can you possibly not have a butt heavy Q. The answer is to bore out the heavy wood & replace it with a lighter wood. This way you achieve a good balance , without compromising the structure of the Q...JER
Click to expand...

How heavy are we talking? I am comfortable with a 21oz cue. Like I asked before, wouldn't a heavy steel joint and pin work to balance it correctly?

Take this Rambow, for instance. I'm sure that this blank was not double spliced or cored. It is probably 20-21oz, perfectly balanced, and plays lights out. How did he do it?!? MAgic?

d93d_1_sbl.JPG


d062_1_sbl.JPG
 
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Ian has wanted this cue for as long as I've known him! I hope to make full splices someday and I think he'd keep me in business if I could to a decent job with them.

Good luck Ian

Dave
 
fullsplicefiend said:
Feel my pain...
Click to expand...

IMHO - if you look under the wrap of the Rambow, about 2 in behind the
start of the wrap, You will find the spliced ebony front is joined to a maple handle section.

Herman used a tenon and a cross-pinned brass screw<like he did in the
joint of the cue> to join the front and handle.
This joinery method, and not the piloted cue joint, is what Rambow
got a U S patent for.

Again, wouldn't bet my life on this specific cue. There were after all,
plenty of fullsplice Hoppes. But, this was the method used by Rambow
and Balabushka after him.

Dale Pierce
 
Hi Guys,

Just wanted to let you know that we will be carrying our newest full splice blanks with ebony, purpleheart and bocote in the fall. These 4 points ebony full splice with SRC veneers (not cored) will be $179.99 each. We are using a full splice technique that will give us longer points (half way)..thus reducing the weight of the ebony as well as distributing the weight gradually from Tip of the forearm to butt sleeve.

Regards.
 
masonh said:
why don't you just call John davis and he will make you one with Ebony in front or back or both for $400 with whatever color veneers you want.you answered your own question.you can search here for his contact info.i bought one with an Ebony front and Tulipwood back with 4 veneers that was double(i would call it triple though)spliced onto maple.it is one of the best playing cues if not the best i have ever owned in my life out of 350-400 cues.top 3 easy.it weighs 18.75 and it is balanced perfectly with a slightly forward balance point and no weight bolt.what more could you ask for.the blank was $400 and Alex Brick charged me $450 to turn it down(they are very oversized)put a leather wrap and brass pin and finish it.also came with one of his super premium shafts.total invested is $850 and i have a beautiful full splice cue with Ebony that weighs under 19oz and plays better than most any cue you will ever pick up.don't listen to the naysayers.
Click to expand...

Any pic's of this cue?
Paul
 
fullsplicefiend said:
Hi,
I'm looking to have an ebony full splice with veneers into birdseye maple made.
Ian
Click to expand...

Ian, call Prathers and explain to them what you want.
I think they are making full spliced butts with veneers now.


Willee
 
Ebony Full Splice

I would call Mark Bear for a Full Splice cue. He is one of the best at full splice IMHO and fairly priced..


Richard
 
WilleeCue said:
Ian, call Prathers and explain to them what you want.
I think they are making full spliced butts with veneers now.


Willee
Click to expand...


I've been emailing Jen at Prathers about making a full spliced ebony butt with veneers...and she said I would have to provide my own pieces of ebony because they're expensive and tough to work with. She asked I provide 2 pieces in case one didn't work out.
 
Retail1LO said:
I've been emailing Jen at Prathers about making a full spliced ebony butt with veneers...and she said I would have to provide my own pieces of ebony because they're expensive and tough to work with. She asked I provide 2 pieces in case one didn't work out.
Click to expand...

Yep thats my plan. I've also spoken to a cuemaker who has already done it about coring out part of the ebony to reduce weight and increase stability. It will work. Thanks all,

IM
 
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